Cartier · Ceinture

Ceinture, Large Model, 18k Yellow Gold

Ref. 78099c. 1970s–1990

The Cartier Ceinture Ref. 78099 is the larger Ceinture of the 1973 Louis Cartier Collection: a 27 × 27 mm 18k yellow gold cut-corner square case, hand-wound on the Cartier Cal. 78-1, with a white Paris dial, made c. 1970s–1990.

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Specifications

Reference
78099
27 mm, 18k yellow gold, manual wind
Year
c. 1970s–1990
Antiquorum, Craft + Tailored, Loupe This and Monaco Legend date examples to the 1970s, Analog/Shift one to the 1980s and Sotheby's one to about 1990; Monaco Legend and Sotheby's date the relaunch in this size to 1973 and 1973–74
Movement
Manual
Cartier Cal. 78-1 per Antiquorum and Loupe This; Sotheby's and Monaco Legend catalog the Cal. 2512, and Sotheby's gives 17 jewels
Case
27 × 27 mm, 18k Yellow Gold
Square with cut corners, often cataloged as octagonal; crown set flat in a slot in the case
Dial
White
Painted black Roman numerals and railroad minute track, signed Paris; some examples carry a later dial signed Swiss Made
Hands
Blued steel
Sword-shaped
Crystal
Acrylic
Acrylic crystal, per Analog/Shift
Strap
Leather
On leather with an 18k gold Cartier deployant clasp or a Cartier tang buckle

Visual Description

The Ref. 78099 is the 27 mm Ceinture. Antiquorum, Loupe This and Craft + Tailored all give the case as 27 × 27 mm in 18k yellow gold, a square whose corners are cut away; Analog/Shift describes the same outline as octagonal. The dial is white, signed Paris, with painted black Roman numerals and a railroad minute track, and the hands are blued steel. The winding crown does not stand out as a cabochon: it lies flat in a slot cut into the case. Analog/Shift lists an acrylic crystal. Examples come on leather straps, with an 18k gold Cartier deployant clasp or a Cartier tang buckle.

Reference Significance

The 78099 is the larger of the two references of the relaunched Ceinture. Monaco Legend writes that Cartier re-released the model in 1973 in two case sizes, 25 mm and 27 mm, and Sotheby's dates the relaunch to 1973–74 in the same two formats. The 27 mm size is the 78099; the 25 mm size is the Ref. 78100. Antiquorum catalogs the 78099 on the Cartier Caliber 78-1, while Sotheby's and Monaco Legend catalog 78099-numbered cases on the Cal. 2512, so both numbers are on record for this reference.

Historical Context

Monaco Legend, Sotheby's and Loupe This date the first Ceinture to 1927, and Cartier Paris brought it back with the Louis Cartier Collection of 1973. Most dated 78099s are from the 1970s: Antiquorum sold one in Hong Kong in November 2025, and Craft + Tailored dates its examples to the same decade. Analog/Shift dates one to the 1980s and Sotheby's one, case 780'992'872, to about 1990, so the reference stayed in the range well beyond the decade of its launch. Craft + Tailored's listing calls it a short-lived 1970s watch, which the later dated examples do not bear out. Beside the yellow gold watches, Christie's has offered a white gold example and Monaco Legend a white gold example set with diamonds, both with case numbers that begin 78099.

What to Look For

Case: The cut corners and stepped edges show any polishing. Compare all four corners; they should be crisp and the same.

Case number: The case back should read 78099 followed by the serial. A catalog may print another number in the reference line, as Antiquorum's "Ref. 159" on case No. 780991926, so read the full case number.

Dial: Most original dials are white and signed Paris. Craft + Tailored and Loupe This have both offered 78099s with dials signed Swiss Made, which each describes as a likely replacement from a past service.

Crown and movement: The flat crown in its slot should be present and fit cleanly. The movement should be hand-wound and signed Cartier, cataloged as the Cal. 78-1 or the Cal. 2512.

Clasp: Many examples still have an 18k gold Cartier deployant clasp; Antiquorum recorded one on a Cartier gold-plated buckle.

Known Variants

Documented dial, case, and bracelet variations of Ref. 78099.

18k Yellow Gold, White Paris Dial

White dial signed Paris with painted black Roman numerals, a railroad minute track and blued hands, cataloged by Antiquorum, Loupe This and Sotheby's and sold by Craft + Tailored and Analog/Shift. Some examples now carry a dial signed Swiss Made, which Craft + Tailored and Loupe This describe as a likely service dial.

c. 1970s–1990The configuration seen most often

18k White Gold

Christie's has offered a 27 mm white gold Ceinture, case No. 780990255, with a white dial with Arabic numerals and a white gold deployant clasp, dated to the 1970s. The catalog names no reference; the case number begins with 78099.

c. 1970s (dated example)One example documented

18k White Gold and Diamonds

Monaco Legend has sold a 27 mm white gold Ceinture set with diamonds on a white gold bracelet, case No. 780990323, on the Cal. 2512, dated to the 1970s. The catalog names no reference; the case number begins with 78099.

c. 1970s (dated example)One example documented

How to tell it apart

What separates a Ref. 78099 from its neighbors, and what to check before you buy or sell one.

What is the Cartier Ceinture Ref. 78099?

The larger of the two Ceintures Cartier Paris made after relaunching the model in the 1973 Louis Cartier Collection. It has a 27 × 27 mm 18k gold case, a square with its corners cut away, a white Paris dial with black Roman numerals and blued hands, an acrylic crystal and a hand-wound movement. Antiquorum, Loupe This, Craft + Tailored and Analog/Shift have all offered it by reference.

How is the 78099 different from the Ref. 78100?

By size. The 78099 measures about 27 × 27 mm and the 78100 about 25 × 25 mm; Monaco Legend and Sotheby's both write that the 1973 relaunch came in 25 mm and 27 mm sizes. The shape, metal, dial and movement are otherwise the same, so measure the case and read the number on the back rather than judging by eye.

What movement is in the 78099?

A hand-wound movement. Antiquorum catalogs it as the Caliber 78-1 and Loupe This as the cal. 78.1, while Sotheby's catalogs a 27 mm Ceinture numbered 780992872 on the cal. 2512 with 17 jewels and Monaco Legend one numbered 780990323 on the cal. 2512.

What should the case back of a 78099 read?

A case number that begins with 78099 and continues with the serial, such as the 780992872 Sotheby's recorded or the 780990323 Monaco Legend recorded. Some catalogs print a different number in the reference line: Antiquorum gave one 78099-numbered Ceinture, case No. 780991926, as Ref. 159 and measured it at 28 × 28 mm. Antiquorum's 2025 catalog printed only the serial, 2729, beside Reference 78099.

What should I check before buying a 78099?

Crisp, matching cut corners and steps, since polishing rounds them; a case number that begins with 78099; a dial signed Paris, or a clear account of a Swiss Made service dial; the flat crown in its slot, which is sometimes replaced; a hand-wound movement signed Cartier; and an 18k gold Cartier deployant clasp or a Cartier buckle.

Other Ceinture References

Ref. 78100Photograph wanted
Ref. 78100

Ceinture, Small Model, 18k Yellow Gold

18k Yellow Gold · c. 1970s–1980s

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