Cartier · Fabergé

Fabergé, Small Model

Ref. 67082c. 1970s–1990s

The Cartier Fabergé Ref. 67082 is the model's small size: a 20 × 27 mm rounded rectangle in 18k yellow gold or diamond-set white gold, hand-wound on the Cal. 2412 and dated c. 1970s–1990s.

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Specifications

Reference
67082
Small model, 18k gold, manual wind
Year
c. 1970s–1990s
Waddington's catalogs one circa 1970s, Finarte one from the 1980s and Sotheby's a diamond-set white gold example circa 1996; no source dates the start or end of production
Movement
Manual-wind
Cal. 2412, 17 jewels
Case
20 × 27 mm, 18k Yellow Gold (diamond-set white gold documented)
Rounded rectangle
Dial
White
Painted Roman numerals
Hands
Unconfirmed
Not described in the catalogs we opened
Crystal
Not stated in the catalogs consulted
Crystal type not stated in the catalogs we opened
Strap
Leather
18k gold Cartier folding clasp, recorded in yellow, white and rose gold

Visual Description

The Ref. 67082 is the small Fabergé: a 20 × 27 mm case with rounded corners in 18k gold, a white dial with painted Roman numerals and a hand-wound movement. Waddington's describes the case as tonneau-shaped and records it in 18k yellow gold.

The case back is held by four screws, and the watch comes on a leather strap with an 18k gold Cartier folding clasp, documented in yellow, white and rose gold. Sotheby's offered a version in 18k white gold set with diamonds, with a matching white gold Cartier clasp. The catalogs we opened do not describe the hands or the crystal.

Reference Significance

The 67082 is the Fabergé made small. At 20 × 27 mm it is about 6 mm narrower and 5.5 mm shorter than the large Ref. 78101, and it runs on a different movement, the Cal. 2412 with 17 jewels in place of the Cartier Cal. 78-1. Sotheby's and Waddington's both record the Cal. 2412.

Waddington's catalogs it as a lady's Tank Fabergé; other houses use the Fabergé name alone. It is also the size in which a gem-set version is documented: the only white gold Fabergé in the records we opened is a diamond-set 67082.

Historical Context

The Fabergé was introduced with the Louis Cartier Collection of 1973, when Cartier revived a group of historical shapes under evocative names. The large Ref. 78101 is documented from the early 1970s, while the small 67082 is harder to place.

Waddington's dates one 67082 to the 1970s and Sotheby's a diamond-set white gold example, serial 0003, to circa 1996. A third, offered with a rose gold Cartier buckle and a Cartier box, is cataloged as 1980s. No source we opened gives a start or end year, so the page dates the reference c. 1970s–1990s.

What to Look For

Start with the case back. The number should begin with 67082 and run into the serial, as on the 670821157 that Waddington's recorded; a number beginning 78101 belongs to the large Fabergé. The movement should be a hand-wound Cal. 2412, and case, dial and movement should all be signed.

On the dial, look for crisp painted Roman numerals and even printing. The rounded case loses its edges to polishing, so check for sharp transitions and an even surface. On a diamond-set example, confirm that every stone is present and evenly set. Examples at auction have come with an 18k gold Cartier folding clasp in yellow, white or rose gold; a plated or unsigned buckle is a later replacement.

Known Variants

Documented dial, case, and bracelet variations of Ref. 67082.

18k Yellow Gold

White dial with painted Roman numerals, hand-wound Cal. 2412, on a leather strap with an 18k yellow gold Cartier deployant buckle. Waddington's catalogs one as a lady's Tank Fabergé, case number 670821157.

c. 1970sUncommon. Finarte has also offered an 18k gold example, dated to the 1980s, without naming the color of the case.

18k White Gold, Diamond-Set

White gold case set with diamonds, white dial, hand-wound Cal. 2412 and an 18k white gold Cartier folding clasp. Sotheby's offered one with case number 67'082 and serial 0003.

Circa 1996Rare; one example documented

How to tell it apart

What separates a Ref. 67082 from its neighbors, and what to check before you buy or sell one.

What is the Cartier Fabergé Ref. 67082?

The small Fabergé: a 20 × 27 mm rounded rectangular case in 18k gold, a white dial with painted Roman numerals and a hand-wound Cal. 2412 with 17 jewels, on a leather strap with an 18k gold Cartier folding clasp. Sotheby's and Finarte catalog it as a Fabergé and Waddington's as a lady's Tank Fabergé.

How is the 67082 different from the Fabergé Ref. 78101?

It is smaller and has a different movement. The 78101 measures about 26 × 32.5 mm and runs on the hand-wound Cartier Cal. 78-1; the 67082 measures 20 × 27 mm and runs on the Cal. 2412. The case back tells them apart at once: a 67082 is numbered 67082 followed by the serial, as on the 670821157 recorded by Waddington's, while a 78101 is numbered 78101 followed by the serial.

What movement is in the 67082?

A hand-wound Cal. 2412 with 17 jewels, recorded by Sotheby's and Waddington's; Finarte describes a hand-winding movement without naming the caliber. Sotheby's records the case, dial and movement as signed. A quartz movement in this case is not original.

When was the 67082 made?

Catalogs disagree. Waddington's dates one example to the 1970s, Finarte another to the 1980s, and Sotheby's a diamond-set white gold example to circa 1996. No source we opened gives a start or end year, so the page dates the reference c. 1970s–1990s. Original papers are the surest way to date an individual watch.

Was the 67082 made in white gold?

One white gold example is documented: Sotheby's offered an 18k white gold 67082 set with diamonds, with a white dial and an 18k white gold Cartier folding clasp, dated circa 1996. The other examples in the records we opened are 18k yellow gold or 18k gold of unstated color.

What should I check before buying a 67082?

A case number that begins 67082 and runs into the serial; a hand-wound Cal. 2412 signed Cartier; a white dial with crisp painted Roman numerals; a case back held by four screws; sharp edges on the rounded case, which polishing softens; complete, evenly set stones on a diamond-set example; and an 18k gold Cartier folding clasp.
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