What is the Cartier Fabergé?

A Cartier wristwatch with a curved, rounded rectangular case, introduced in the 1973 Louis Cartier Collection according to Phillips and named for the Russian court jeweler Peter Carl Fabergé. It was made in two sizes: the large Ref. 78101, about 26 × 32.5 mm with the hand-wound Cartier Cal. 78-1, and the small Ref. 67082, 20 × 27 mm with the hand-wound Cal. 2412.

How do I tell the large and small Fabergé apart?

By size and by the number on the case back. The Ref. 78101 measures about 26 × 32.5 mm and runs on the Cartier Cal. 78-1 (Monaco Legend lists one as cal. 2512); the Ref. 67082 measures 20 × 27 mm and runs on the Cal. 2412. Case numbers begin with the reference, for example 781010294 on a 78101 offered through Drouot and 670821157 on a 67082 sold by Waddington's.

Is the Fabergé a Tank?

Catalogs differ. Phillips calls the large model a rare variation of the Tank with a curved rectangular shape, and Waddington's catalogs a small one as a Tank Fabergé, while Sotheby's and Monaco Legend use the name Fabergé alone. Cartier gave it its own name in the 1973 collection, so Archiva treats it as a model in its own right.

Were Fabergé watches made with special dials?

Yes, for commissions. Sotheby's offered a Ref. 78101 of about 1971 made for the Kuwait Military Armed Forces, with the crest on its white dial, and Monaco Legend sold one commissioned by the Jordanian Royal Family. A commissioned dial is part of a watch's history and should come with provenance that supports it.

What should I check before buying a Fabergé?

The case number, which should begin with 78101 or 67082; a hand-wound movement that matches the reference (Cal. 78-1 in the large model, Cal. 2412 in the small); crisp dial printing without signs of refinishing; sharp edges and an intact curve on the case; and an original 18k gold Cartier clasp or buckle. Papers help date an example, since catalogs date the small model anywhere from the 1970s to the 1990s.

Cartier

Fabergé

A curved, rounded rectangle from the 1973 Louis Cartier Collection, named for the Russian court jeweler Peter Carl Fabergé and made in a large and a small size.

View references Collector's Corner

History

The Louis Cartier Collection

In 1973 Cartier released the Louis Cartier Collection, a group of historical shapes, several of them sold under evocative names. The round Vendôme and the faceted Cristallor came from it, and so did the Fabergé, a curved rectangle with rounded corners. Phillips writes that the larger Square Incurvée Grand Modèle was the shape chosen and named Fabergé in the collection, and that the model drew inspiration from Peter Carl Fabergé, the Russian court jeweler.

Shape and Sizes

The Fabergé is a rounded rectangle curved along its length. Monaco Legend, which also calls the model the Incurvée, describes a curvature that wraps around the wrist.

The large model is the Ref. 78101, about 26 × 32.5 mm in 18k yellow gold, with a white lacquered dial, painted Roman numerals, a chemin de fer minute track, blued sword hands and the hand-wound Cartier Cal. 78-1. Sotheby's catalogs one at 25.8 × 32.5 mm and Monaco Legend another at 26 × 32.5 mm.

The small model is the Ref. 67082, at 20 × 27 mm, with a white dial, painted Roman numerals and the hand-wound Cal. 2412 with 17 jewels. It is documented in 18k yellow gold and in an 18k white gold version set with diamonds, and its case is described both as a rounded rectangle and as tonneau-shaped. Sotheby's and Waddington's both record the Cal. 2412 in it.

Dating

Phillips places the introduction in the 1973 collection, while Sotheby's dates one Ref. 78101 to about 1971 and says the reference was produced during the early 1970s. Another 78101 came with a Cartier warranty card dated December 23, 1974, and catalogs agree that the large model belongs to the 1970s.

The large model's dials are signed Paris. On the example Phillips offered, the dial has a pointed Cartier A and lacks the hidden signature at VII, a detail Cartier introduced in the late 1970s.

Auction houses date the small Ref. 67082 more widely, from the 1970s to circa 1996, the latest being a diamond-set white gold example at Sotheby's. No source we opened gives a firm start or end year for either size.

Commissioned Dials

The Fabergé was chosen for official commissions. Sotheby's offered a Ref. 78101 made for the Kuwait Military Armed Forces, with the crest on its white dial, and Monaco Legend sold another commissioned by the Jordanian Royal Family. Both are 18k yellow gold large models of the 1970s.

The Fabergé Today

The Fabergé is one of the less familiar names from the 1973 collection, and it comes to auction only occasionally. Yellow gold is the norm in both sizes; the only white gold Fabergé in the records we opened is a diamond-set Ref. 67082. For an owner, the case number, the hand-wound movement and the state of the dial say most of what there is to know about an example.

Quintessential Reference

Ref. 67082 · c. 1970s–1990s

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Reference: 67082; Small model, 18k gold, manual wind
Year: c. 1970s–1990s; Waddington's catalogs one circa 1970s, Finarte one from the 1980s and Sotheby's a diamond-set white gold example circa 1996; no source dates the start or end of production
Movement: Manual-wind; Cal. 2412, 17 jewels
Case: 20 × 27 mm, 18k Yellow Gold (diamond-set white gold documented)
Dial: White; Painted Roman numerals
Hands: Unconfirmed; Not described in the catalogs we opened
Crystal: Not stated in the catalogs consulted; Crystal type not stated in the catalogs we opened
Strap: Leather; 18k gold Cartier folding clasp, recorded in yellow, white and rose gold

The Ref. 67082 is the small Fabergé: a 20 × 27 mm 18k gold watch with a white dial, painted Roman numerals and the hand-wound Cal. 2412, cataloged under the Fabergé name by Sotheby's, Finarte and Waddington's. It is documented in yellow gold and in a diamond-set white gold version, dated by auction houses from the 1970s to the 1990s. Its larger sibling, the Ref. 78101 of the early 1970s, is described in the history below.

Other Known References

1 documented reference across 1 era

Reunion & Democratization1964–1992

1 ref

	Reference	Case Material	Movement	Case Size	Dial	Crystal
	Ref. 6708218k Yellow Gold (diamond-set white gold documented) · Manual-wind	18k Yellow Gold (diamond-set white gold documented)	Manual-wind	20 × 27 mm	White	Not stated in the catalogs consulted

Collector's Corner

What every buyer, inheritor, and first-time collector should know.

Buying Guide

01DIAL

The Secret Signature

Introduced 1977

A microscopic 'CARTIER' hidden within the Roman numerals — present on every genuine post-1977 dial.

02CASE

Case Back Hallmarks

Varies by era

Genuine Cartier cases bear specific hallmarks including the Cartier name, reference number, serial number, and precious metal assay marks. Placement and style varies by era, with earlier pieces showing different hallmark configurations than modern examples.

03MOVEMENT

Movement Sourcing

Varies by era and model

Cartier sourced movements from various Swiss manufacturers throughout history, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, Frédéric Piguet, ETA, and in-house production. Knowing the correct caliber for a specific reference is essential for identifying the watch and establishing provenance.

04CROWN

Crown Sapphire Cabochon

A Cartier hallmark since the early 20th century

The blue sapphire (or spinel on less precious models) cabochon crown is a Cartier signature. Original crowns show consistent color saturation and are set flush with the crown body. Replacements often show misalignment or incorrect stone dimensions that reveal themselves under magnification.

05BRACELET

Bracelet and Clasp Markings

Check the clasp first

Cartier bracelets carry their own reference markings and the deployment clasp should bear the Cartier name and logo. Aftermarket bracelets are extremely common on vintage pieces, so verifying clasp authenticity and matching reference numbers is crucial to the overall picture.

06DIAL

Dial Aging and Patina

Patina tells the story

Vintage Cartier dials develop characteristic aging—cream dials warm to ivory, lacquer dials may develop fine crazing, and applied indices can show legible wear patterns. Understanding acceptable versus concerning dial aging is key to valuing a vintage piece authentically.

Questions collectors ask

Direct answers about the Cartier Fabergé, drawn from the reference records below.

What is the Cartier Fabergé?: A Cartier wristwatch with a curved, rounded rectangular case, introduced in the 1973 Louis Cartier Collection according to Phillips and named for the Russian court jeweler Peter Carl Fabergé. It was made in two sizes: the large Ref. 78101, about 26 × 32.5 mm with the hand-wound Cartier Cal. 78-1, and the small Ref. 67082, 20 × 27 mm with the hand-wound Cal. 2412.
Why is it called the Fabergé?: Phillips writes that the model drew inspiration from Peter Carl Fabergé, the Russian court jeweler, and that the larger Square Incurvée Grand Modèle was the shape chosen and named Fabergé in the 1973 collection. Monaco Legend also uses the name Incurvée, for the curve that wraps around the wrist.
How do I tell the large and small Fabergé apart?: By size and by the number on the case back. The Ref. 78101 measures about 26 × 32.5 mm and runs on the Cartier Cal. 78-1 (Monaco Legend lists one as cal. 2512); the Ref. 67082 measures 20 × 27 mm and runs on the Cal. 2412. Case numbers begin with the reference, for example 781010294 on a 78101 offered through Drouot and 670821157 on a 67082 sold by Waddington's.
Is the Fabergé a Tank?: Catalogs differ. Phillips calls the large model a rare variation of the Tank with a curved rectangular shape, and Waddington's catalogs a small one as a Tank Fabergé, while Sotheby's and Monaco Legend use the name Fabergé alone. Cartier gave it its own name in the 1973 collection, so Archiva treats it as a model in its own right.
Were Fabergé watches made with special dials?: Yes, for commissions. Sotheby's offered a Ref. 78101 of about 1971 made for the Kuwait Military Armed Forces, with the crest on its white dial, and Monaco Legend sold one commissioned by the Jordanian Royal Family. A commissioned dial is part of a watch's history and should come with provenance that supports it.
What should I check before buying a Fabergé?: The case number, which should begin with 78101 or 67082; a hand-wound movement that matches the reference (Cal. 78-1 in the large model, Cal. 2412 in the small); crisp dial printing without signs of refinishing; sharp edges and an intact curve on the case; and an original 18k gold Cartier clasp or buckle. Papers help date an example, since catalogs date the small model anywhere from the 1970s to the 1990s.

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