01DIAL
The Secret Signature
Introduced 1977
A microscopic 'CARTIER' hidden within the Roman numerals — present on every genuine post-1977 dial.
Cartier
Tank Asymétrique
A Tank tilted off its axis: the 1936 Parallélogramme, revived in 1996 as a numbered limited edition.
History
A Driver's Watch from 1936
The Tank dates to 1917, and Sotheby's records that Louis Cartier based it on the Renault FT tank seen from above. The Asymétrique departs from that rectangle. Sotheby's dates it to 1936, when it appeared as the Parallélogramme, and Phillips explains the logic: the case is turned so that the wearer can read the time with the arm at about 60 degrees, as it sits when holding a steering wheel.
The 1996 Revival
Cartier relaunched the model in 1996 as the Tank Asymétrique. Wind Vintage and Menta Watches place the release with the "Magical Art of Cartier" theme of that year. The revival was a numbered limited edition: Sotheby's catalogs 400 pieces, 300 in 18k yellow gold and 100 in platinum, hand-wound on the cal. 9P2, which Phillips describes as a Piaget caliber about 2 mm thick. Dials are silvered and engine-turned, signed Cartier Paris.
One source, Loupe This, documents a 99-piece yellow gold Macau edition from 1999, with a "99" on the dial. It is recorded on the Ref. 2488 page as a variant, with its single-source status stated.
The Asymétrique Today
The 1996 watches change hands regularly. Sotheby's offered two yellow gold examples in 2025 and Phillips sold a platinum one in its 2025 "Decade One" sale, while specialist dealers have also handled both metals. Cartier has since issued new limited editions, including the 2020 WGTA0044 that Phillips catalogs at 47 × 26 mm on the Cartier 1917 MC. Those are separate watches. The vintage Asymétrique remains the 1996 edition, one of the smaller numbered runs of its decade.
Quintessential Reference
Ref. 2488 · c. 1996–1997
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The 1996 limited edition: 300 watches in 18k yellow gold and 100 in platinum, hand-wound on the Piaget-based cal. 9P2, with a silvered guilloché dial signed Cartier Paris. It is the vintage-era Asymétrique collectors meet most often at auction, and each watch is numbered on the case back.
Other Known References
1 documented reference across 1 era
Modern Manufacture1993–20011 ref
| Reference | |
|---|---|
| Ref. 2488 |
Collector's Corner
What every buyer, inheritor, and first-time collector should know.
Buying Guide
02CASE
Case Back Hallmarks
Varies by era
Genuine Cartier cases bear specific hallmarks including the Cartier name, reference number, serial number, and precious metal assay marks. Placement and style varies by era, with earlier pieces showing different hallmark configurations than modern examples.
03MOVEMENT
Movement Sourcing
Varies by era and model
Cartier sourced movements from various Swiss manufacturers throughout history, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, Frédéric Piguet, ETA, and in-house production. Knowing the correct caliber for a specific reference is essential for identifying the watch and establishing provenance.
04CROWN
Crown Sapphire Cabochon
A Cartier hallmark since the early 20th century
The blue sapphire (or spinel on less precious models) cabochon crown is a Cartier signature. Original crowns show consistent color saturation and are set flush with the crown body. Replacements often show misalignment or incorrect stone dimensions that reveal themselves under magnification.
05BRACELET
Bracelet and Clasp Markings
Check the clasp first
Cartier bracelets carry their own reference markings and the deployment clasp should bear the Cartier name and logo. Aftermarket bracelets are extremely common on vintage pieces, so verifying clasp authenticity and matching reference numbers is crucial to the overall picture.
06DIAL
Dial Aging and Patina
Patina tells the story
Vintage Cartier dials develop characteristic aging—cream dials warm to ivory, lacquer dials may develop fine crazing, and applied indices can show legible wear patterns. Understanding acceptable versus concerning dial aging is key to valuing a vintage piece authentically.
Questions collectors ask
Direct answers about the Cartier Tank Asymétrique, drawn from the reference records below.
What is the Tank Asymétrique?
- A Tank with an asymmetrical, tilted case. Sotheby's dates the design to 1936, when it appeared as the Parallélogramme, and records its relaunch in 1996 as the Tank Asymétrique. Phillips describes it as a driver's watch that can be read with the arm at about 60 degrees, without taking the hands off the wheel.
Which Tank Asymétrique references are vintage?
- The 1996 limited edition, Ref. 2488, is documented in 18k yellow gold and in platinum. A single source documents a 1999 Macau edition. Later Asymétrique editions, such as the 2020 WGTA0044, are not vintage.
How do I tell the 1996 Asymétrique from a later one?
- Size and movement. The 1996 watch measures about 23–24 × 33–34 mm on the cal. 9P2. Phillips catalogs the 2020–2021 WGTA0044 at 47 × 26 mm on the Cartier 1917 MC.
Is the Tank Asymétrique quartz or mechanical?
- The 1996 Ref. 2488 is mechanical: a hand-wound Piaget-based cal. 9P2 with 18 jewels, as catalogued by Sotheby's and Phillips.
How many 1996 Tank Asymétriques were made?
- Sotheby's catalogs a limited edition of 400, with 300 in 18k yellow gold and 100 in platinum. Wind Vintage gives the same 300 and 100 split.
Next Steps
INHERITOR
I inherited this watch
Check the case back for an edition number and the metal. The number tells you which of the two editions you hold.
START HERE →BUYERI'm buying this watch
Match the edition number to the metal, confirm the cal. 9P2 and look closely at the dial. Know what to check.
CHECK BEFORE YOU BUY →SELLERI'm selling this watch
Edition number, metal, box and guarantee all affect how a 2488 is received. Start from what the archive documents.
PRICE MY WATCH →