How much will a dealer pay for a Panthère de Cartier?

Dealers buying to resell usually bid about 75 to 85% of public market value, because they carry the cost and risk of the resale. For a small steel and gold Panthère de Cartier at the recent median of $4,250, that suggests bids of roughly $3,200 to $3,600. Archiva is opening a panel of specialist dealers who bid blind, with the seller keeping the whole winning bid.

How do I tell which Panthère de Cartier reference I have?

Read the number on the case back, then measure. The Ref. 1300 is the steel Jumbo at 29 × 40 mm, and the Ref. 187957 the Jumbo in stainless steel and 18k yellow gold, 29 mm wide and 39 to 40 mm long, dated c. 1986–1993; the Ref. 1310 is the steel medium at about 27 mm wide and 32 to 36 mm long, and the Ref. 1320 the small steel model, 21 to 22 mm wide, dated c. 1990–2003. The medium in stainless steel and 18k yellow gold, 26 to 27 mm wide with the date at 5 o'clock, is the Ref. 183949, dated to the 1980s, and the matching Ref. 1100, dated c. 1995–1998; the medium in 18k yellow gold, 27 to 28 mm wide, is the Ref. 887968, dated from 1989 into the 1990s, and the matching Ref. 8839, 27 mm wide, dated c. 1990s, and the matching Ref. 1060, 27 to 28 mm wide, dated c. 1990–1997. The small 22 × 30 mm model in 18k yellow gold appears under four numbers: the 8669, dated from 1987 into the 1990s, the 107000 of about 1989 to 1994, the 1070 of 1992 to about 2000 and the 1280 of about 1995 to 2001. The small gold model set with diamonds, 21 to 22 mm wide, also appears as the Ref. 8057915, dated from the 1980s to about 2000. The small model in stainless steel and 18k yellow gold, about 22 mm wide, appears as the 166921, dated 1984 to 1993, whose case number can begin 66921, and as the 1120 of about 1990 to 1998. The mini in 18k white gold with a diamond-set bezel, 17 mm wide, is the Ref. 2363, dated c. 1997–2000s. All are quartz.

Is the Panthère de Cartier quartz or mechanical?

Quartz. Every vintage Panthère reference Archiva records runs on a Cartier quartz movement. Sotheby's catalogs the small gold Ref. 1280 on the Cal. 157.06 with 4 jewels, and gives the Cal. 157.06 for one small gold Ref. 1070 and the Cal. 154 for another. Fellows catalogs a steel Ref. 1300 on the Cal. 87.06, the small Refs. 1320, 1120 and 166921 on the Cal. 157, a steel and gold Ref. 183949 on the Cal. 83 and most steel and gold Ref. 1100s on the Cal. 87.06. Sotheby's catalogs a gold medium Ref. 8839 on the Cal. 83 with 9 jewels, and Bonhams a gold medium Ref. 1060 on the Cal. 87.06 with 7 jewels. Sotheby's and Fellows catalog the diamond-set small gold Ref. 8057915 on the Cal. 157. For the other references, no auction house or established dealer we consulted names the caliber.

When was the Panthère made?

Cartier introduced it in 1983. Sotheby's records that the line was discontinued in 2004 and relaunched in 2017. The vintage references Archiva records are dated from the 1980s to 2003.

Is a vintage Panthère a women's watch?

Sizes were sold to both. Dealers list the small 22 × 30 mm gold models as ladies' watches, while WannaBuyAWatch describes the steel medium Ref. 1310 as the man's size, as distinct from the man's XL.

What should I check before buying a vintage Panthère?

The number on the case back, which tells you the reference; a bracelet with its links and a clasp that closes firmly; an original dial with painted Roman numerals and the secret signature; blued hands; an intact cabochon in the crown; and a quartz movement that runs. Cartier guarantees and service papers help date a watch.

Cartier

Panthère de Cartier

Cartier's quartz watch with an integrated bracelet, introduced in 1983 and made in stainless steel and 18k gold.

What's it worth?View references Collector's Corner

History

The Panthère

Cartier introduced the Panthère de Cartier in 1983 as a quartz watch with an integrated bracelet. Sotheby's records that the line was discontinued in 2004 and relaunched in 2017. Archiva's pages cover the vintage references in stainless steel and 18k yellow gold, and a mini in 18k white gold, dated from the 1980s to 2003.

Design

The references Archiva records come in three steel sizes, a small and a medium gold size, and a small, a medium and a Jumbo in steel and gold, and a mini in white gold. The steel Ref. 1300, sold as the Jumbo, measures 29 × 40 mm, the medium Ref. 1310 is about 27 mm wide, and the small Ref. 1320 is 21 to 22 mm wide. The 1300 and 1310 have a date window and a center seconds hand, and Lyon & Turnbull places the 1310's date at 5 o'clock. The Ref. 187957 is the Jumbo in stainless steel and 18k yellow gold, 29 mm wide and 39 to 40 mm long, with a date and a bracelet of five rows, two of them gold. The medium in steel and gold, the Ref. 183949 and the Ref. 1100, is 26 to 27 mm wide with a gold bezel, a steel and gold bracelet and the date at 5 o'clock; the two match in size and metals, are both quartz, and differ in number and date. The Ref. 887968 is the medium in 18k yellow gold, 27 to 28 mm wide, with a date; the Ref. 8839, 27 mm wide with the date at 3 o'clock, matches it in size, metal and movement and differs in number, and so does the Ref. 1060, 27 to 28 mm wide with the date at 3 o'clock. The small steel and gold model, a steel case with a gold bezel about 22 mm wide on a steel and gold bracelet, appears as the Ref. 166921 and the Ref. 1120. The small 22 × 30 mm model in 18k yellow gold has carried four numbers, the 8669, 107000, 1070 and 1280, and is often diamond-set; the Ref. 8057915, 21 to 22 mm wide, is documented only diamond-set. The Ref. 2363 is the mini in 18k white gold, 17 mm wide, with a diamond-set bezel and a white gold bracelet. Dials are cream, white or silvered with painted Roman numerals and Cartier's secret signature, the hands are blued steel, and the crown is usually set with a blue cabochon.

The Quartz Movement

Every vintage Panthère reference Archiva records is quartz. Sotheby's catalogs the small gold Ref. 1280 on the Cartier Cal. 157.06 with 4 jewels, and gives the Cal. 157.06 for one small gold Ref. 1070 and the Cal. 154 for another. Fellows catalogs a steel Ref. 1300 on the Cal. 87.06 with quick date set, and the small Refs. 1320, 1120 and 166921 on the Cal. 157. It catalogs the steel and gold medium on the Cal. 83 as the 183949 and mostly on the Cal. 87.06 as the 1100. Sotheby's catalogs the gold medium Ref. 8839 on the Cal. 83 with 9 jewels, and Bonhams the gold medium Ref. 1060 on the Cal. 87.06 with 7 jewels. Sotheby's and Fellows catalog the diamond-set small gold Ref. 8057915 on the Cal. 157. For the 1310, the 8669, the 887968 and the 2363, no auction house or established dealer we consulted names the caliber, so their pages give none.

A Question of Audience

Dealers list the small gold Panthères as ladies' watches. WannaBuyAWatch describes the steel medium Ref. 1310 as the man's size, as distinct from the man's XL, and notes that it is now called the midsize model.

Longevity and Variants

The small gold model appears as the 8669 from 1987 into the 1990s, the 107000 from about 1989 to 1994, the 1070 from 1992 to about 2000 and the 1280 from 1995 to about 2001. The small steel and gold model appears as the 166921 from 1984 to 1993 and the 1120 from about 1990 to 1998. The steel 1300 is dated from 1990 to 1994, the 1310 from the 1990s to about 2001 and the small 1320 from about 1990 to 2003. The steel and gold Jumbo 187957 is dated from 1986 to 1992. The steel and gold medium is dated to the 1980s as the 183949 and c. 1995–1998 as the 1100, and the gold medium as the 887968 from 1989 into the 1990s, as the 8839 to about 1990 and the 1990s, and as the 1060 from about 1990 to 1997. The diamond-set small gold 8057915 is dated from the 1980s to about 2000, including the Panthère Classic et Figaro limited edition that Sotheby's dates to about 1999. The white gold mini 2363 is dated from about 1997 into the 2000s. Diamond-set versions of the small gold references are documented at auction and by dealers.

Identification

Read the number on the case back. Houses often print the small gold references with a suffix or a serial run straight into the number, such as 107000M, 1070 2, 1280 2 or 8669113716; the small steel and gold 166921 often carries a case number beginning 66921, such as 66921041840. Dealers print the 1120 as 112000R and the steel Jumbo as 1300 0 or 130000C, and houses print the steel and gold medium 1100 as 1100 2 or 110000 R. The gold medium 8839 appears with a separate serial or run into one long number, such as 8839712124, and houses print the gold medium 1060 as 1060 2. The diamond-set small gold 8057915 carries a separate serial, as in 8057915/00143. Measure the case to confirm the size, and match the dial and movement to the reference page.

Quintessential Reference

Ref. 1300 · c. 1990–1994

Photos by @voys_time

Reference: 1300; Jumbo, Stainless Steel, Quartz
Year: c. 1990–1994; Dealers date examples from 1990 to a Cartier guarantee of 1994; later dates are not yet documented by an auction house or established dealer
Movement: Quartz; Cartier quartz; Fellows catalogs the Cal. 87.06 with quick date set
Case: 29 × 40 mm, Stainless steel
Dial: Cream or silver; Black Roman numerals, secret signature in the VII, date window, center seconds
Hands: Blued steel; Hour and minute hands, with a center seconds hand
Crystal: Not confirmed; Not stated in the auction and dealer listings opened
Strap: Integrated stainless steel bracelet; Steel bracelet with a concealed double folding clasp

The Jumbo Panthère in stainless steel: a 29 × 40 mm case on an integrated steel bracelet with a concealed double folding clasp, a cream or silver dial with black Roman numerals and a date window, blued steel hands with a center seconds hand, and a Cartier quartz movement. Dealers date examples from 1990 to 1994 and also list the number in its long form, 130000C.

Other Known References

17 documented references across 2 eras

Reunion & Democratization1964–1992

10 refs

Reference	Case Material	Movement	Case Size	Dial	Crystal
Ref. 10700018k Yellow Gold · Quartz	18k Yellow Gold	Quartz	22 × 30 mm	Cream, white or silvered, painted Roman numerals	Sapphire crystal
Ref. 1300Stainless steel · Quartz	Stainless steel	Quartz	29 × 40 mm	Cream or silver	Not confirmed
Ref. 1310Stainless steel · Quartz	Stainless steel	Quartz	27 mm wide, about 32–36 mm long (medium model)	White or cream	Sapphire crystal
Ref. 166921Stainless steel and 18k yellow gold · Quartz	Stainless steel and 18k yellow gold	Quartz	22 mm wide	Cream, white or silver	Sapphire
Ref. 183949Stainless steel and 18k yellow gold · Quartz	Stainless steel and 18k yellow gold	Quartz	27 mm wide (medium model)	White, cream or champagne
Ref. 187957Stainless steel and 18k yellow gold · Quartz	Stainless steel and 18k yellow gold	Quartz	29 mm wide, 39–40 mm long	Silver or cream	Sapphire
Ref. 805791518k Yellow Gold, diamond-set · Quartz	18k Yellow Gold, diamond-set	Quartz	21–22 mm wide	Silvered, blue, pavé diamond or black lacquer
Ref. 866918k Yellow Gold · Quartz	18k Yellow Gold	Quartz	22 × 30 mm	Cream or silvered	Sapphire
Ref. 883918k Yellow Gold · Quartz	18k Yellow Gold	Quartz	27 mm wide (medium model)	Champagne, cream or silvered
Ref. 88796818k Yellow Gold · Quartz	18k Yellow Gold	Quartz	27–28 mm wide (medium model)	White, silver, cream or champagne	Sapphire

Modern Manufacture1993–2001

7 refs

Reference	Case Material	Movement	Case Size	Dial	Crystal
Ref. 106018k Yellow Gold · Quartz	18k Yellow Gold	Quartz	27–28 mm wide (medium model)	Champagne, white or silvered	Sapphire
Ref. 107018k Yellow Gold · Quartz	18k Yellow Gold	Quartz	22 × 30 mm	Silvered, white, cream or ivory	Sapphire
Ref. 1100Stainless steel and 18k yellow gold · Quartz	Stainless steel and 18k yellow gold	Quartz	26–27 mm wide (medium model)	Silvered, white or cream	Sapphire
Ref. 1120Stainless steel and 18k yellow gold · Quartz	Stainless steel and 18k yellow gold	Quartz	21–22 mm wide, 29–30 mm long	Cream, white or silvered	Sapphire
Ref. 128018k Yellow Gold · Quartz	18k Yellow Gold	Quartz	22 × 30 mm	Silvered or cream	Sapphire
Ref. 1320Stainless steel · Quartz	Stainless steel	Quartz	21–22 mm wide	Silvered, cream or ivory	Not confirmed
Ref. 236318k White Gold · Quartz	18k White Gold	Quartz	17 mm wide	Silvered, Roman numerals

What is a Panthère de Cartier worth?

Choose your reference, set its condition, and see what it's likely to bring. Each estimate uses sales of that exact reference where there are enough of them.

From December 2023 to August 2026, 8 counted sales of Ref. 1120 ran from $2,550 to $6,650, with a middle price of $4,350. The most recent was $2,550 at Morton Auctions in August 2026.

See all 9 sales of Ref. 1120: 8 counted, 1 not

Date	Ref.	Where	Details	Counts as	Price
Aug 2026	1120	Leonard Joel (via EveryWatch)Auction	Silvered white dial, 22 mm, steel with gold bezel and steel and gold bracelet, quartz, c.1990, good condition, no box or papers. Sold 17 Aug 2026. EveryWatch does not state whether the price includes the premium.	This reference	$6,667
Aug 2026	1120	Morton Auctions (via EveryWatch)Auction	Cream dial, 21 mm, steel and gold bracelet, quartz, no box or papers. Sold 1 Aug 2026. Listing is inconsistent on whether the case is steel or steel and gold; ref. 1120 is the steel and gold model. EveryWatch does not state whether the price includes the premium.	This reference	$2,532
Jul 2026	1120	Bonhams (via EveryWatch)Auction	Cream dial, 22 mm, steel case, steel and gold bracelet, quartz (cal. 157.06), box, guarantee and brochure, bought Feb 1998. Online sale ended 8 Jul 2026. EveryWatch does not state whether the price includes the premium.	This reference	$4,400
May 2026	1120	Olympia Auctions (via EveryWatch)Auction	Cream dial, 22 mm, steel with gold bezel and steel and gold bracelet, quartz (cal. 157), c.1997, papers. Sold 14 May 2026. EveryWatch does not state whether the price includes the premium.	This reference	$4,718
May 2026	1120	Webb's (via EveryWatch)Auction	White dial, 22 mm, steel with 18k gold bezel and steel and gold bracelet, quartz, service pouch only, sold as is. Sold 13-18 May 2026. EveryWatch does not state whether the price includes the premium.	This reference	$4,256
Nov 2025	1120	DorotheumAuction	Steel and gold, 22 mm, c.1998, guarantee certificate and booklet	This reference	€4,160≈ $4,850
Dec 2023	1120	Artcurial (via Collector Square)Auction	Online sale. Lady's steel and gold quartz, c.1990, lot 145	This reference	€2,624≈ $2,850
Dec 2023	1120	DorotheumAuction	Online sale. Steel and gold, 22 mm, beige dial, c.1995, certificate	This reference	€2,600≈ $2,850
Oct 2023	1120	Bonhams London (via Collector Square)Auction	Lady's steel and gold quartz bracelet watch, c.1990, lot 13	Not countedolder than the three-year window	£4,096≈ $5,000

Sales from November 2023 to November 2026, or from the last five years for a reference with fewer than three in that time. Only sales that name a reference count toward its estimate; sales of the rest of its version are shown for comparison and never folded in. Auction prices include the buyer's premium unless a row says hammer; dealer prices are the price at sale. Currency figures are converted near the sale date; Dorotheum figures include its premium and VAT. Rows via Collector Square or EveryWatch come from those indexes and should be confirmed at the auction house. Results that some houses show only to signed-in visitors are read from the house's own page with an Archiva account. Diamond-set Panthères are common at auction and are not counted. The condition and option adjustments, the expected bid (75 to 85% of market value) and the auction range (62 to 72%) are working assumptions, to be replaced by Archiva's own bids as they come in. A sale far above or below the other sales of its reference is listed but not counted, so one unusual result can't pull the estimate. An estimate from public results, not an appraisal.

Collector's Corner

What every buyer, inheritor, and first-time collector should know.

Buying Guide

01DIAL

The Secret Signature

Introduced 1977

A microscopic 'CARTIER' hidden within the Roman numerals, present on every genuine post-1977 dial.

02CASE

Case Back Hallmarks

Varies by origin and era

A Cartier case carries the Cartier signature, a reference and serial number on later pieces, and small struck marks for the metal and the case maker. Which marks appear depends on where the case was made: an eagle's head on Paris gold, JC and a date letter on London cases, the Helvetia head on Swiss 18k before 1995. The hallmarks guide shows what each one means.

03MOVEMENT

Movement Sourcing

Varies by era and model

Cartier sourced movements from various Swiss manufacturers throughout history, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, Frédéric Piguet, ETA, and in-house production. Knowing the correct caliber for a specific reference is essential for identifying the watch and establishing provenance.

04CROWN

Crown Sapphire Cabochon

A Cartier hallmark since the early 20th century

The blue sapphire (or spinel on less precious models) cabochon crown is a Cartier signature. Original crowns show consistent color saturation and are set flush with the crown body. Replacements often show misalignment or incorrect stone dimensions that reveal themselves under magnification.

05BRACELET

Bracelet and Clasp Markings

Check the clasp first

Cartier bracelets carry their own reference markings and the deployment clasp should bear the Cartier name and logo. Aftermarket bracelets are extremely common on vintage pieces, so checking that the clasp is original and that reference numbers match is crucial to the overall picture.

06DIAL

Dial Aging and Patina

Patina tells the story

Vintage Cartier dials develop characteristic aging: cream dials warm to ivory, lacquer dials may develop fine crazing, and applied indices can show legible wear patterns. Understanding acceptable versus concerning dial aging is key to valuing a vintage piece accurately.

Questions collectors ask

Direct answers about the Panthère de Cartier, drawn from the reference records below.

What is a Panthère de Cartier worth?: Public auction and dealer results from November 2023 to November 2026 put the small steel and gold (Ref. 1120, 66921) at $3,200 to $5,250, median $4,250 across 19 sales; the medium or large steel and gold with date (Ref. 1100, 183949) at $3,450 to $4,900, median $4,000 across 9 sales; the small 18k gold (Ref. 8669, 1070) at $8,450 to $9,600, median $8,500 across 11 sales; the medium or large 18k gold (Ref. 887968, 8839) at $6,600 to $12,400, median $7,800 across 5 sales; the small steel quartz (Ref. 1320, 132000C) at $2,950 to $3,150, median $3,050 across 4 sales; the medium steel quartz date (Ref. 1310) at $3,200 to $3,550, median $3,400 across 2 sales; the large steel quartz date (Ref. 1300, W25032P5) at $3,050 to $3,250, median $3,200 across 3 sales; the small 18k gold diamond-set (Ref. 8057915) at $25,450 to $37,250, median $31,350 across 2 sales; and the mini 18k white gold diamond-set (Ref. 2363) at $16,000 to $29,950, median $16,000 across 3 sales. Condition, a recent Cartier service, and the original box and papers move an individual watch within or beyond these ranges, and the calculator on this page adjusts for each.
How much will a dealer pay for a Panthère de Cartier?: Dealers buying to resell usually bid about 75 to 85% of public market value, because they carry the cost and risk of the resale. For a small steel and gold Panthère de Cartier at the recent median of $4,250, that suggests bids of roughly $3,200 to $3,600. Archiva is opening a panel of specialist dealers who bid blind, with the seller keeping the whole winning bid.
How do I tell which Panthère de Cartier reference I have?: Read the number on the case back, then measure. The Ref. 1300 is the steel Jumbo at 29 × 40 mm, and the Ref. 187957 the Jumbo in stainless steel and 18k yellow gold, 29 mm wide and 39 to 40 mm long, dated c. 1986–1993; the Ref. 1310 is the steel medium at about 27 mm wide and 32 to 36 mm long, and the Ref. 1320 the small steel model, 21 to 22 mm wide, dated c. 1990–2003. The medium in stainless steel and 18k yellow gold, 26 to 27 mm wide with the date at 5 o'clock, is the Ref. 183949, dated to the 1980s, and the matching Ref. 1100, dated c. 1995–1998; the medium in 18k yellow gold, 27 to 28 mm wide, is the Ref. 887968, dated from 1989 into the 1990s, and the matching Ref. 8839, 27 mm wide, dated c. 1990s, and the matching Ref. 1060, 27 to 28 mm wide, dated c. 1990–1997. The small 22 × 30 mm model in 18k yellow gold appears under four numbers: the 8669, dated from 1987 into the 1990s, the 107000 of about 1989 to 1994, the 1070 of 1992 to about 2000 and the 1280 of about 1995 to 2001. The small gold model set with diamonds, 21 to 22 mm wide, also appears as the Ref. 8057915, dated from the 1980s to about 2000. The small model in stainless steel and 18k yellow gold, about 22 mm wide, appears as the 166921, dated 1984 to 1993, whose case number can begin 66921, and as the 1120 of about 1990 to 1998. The mini in 18k white gold with a diamond-set bezel, 17 mm wide, is the Ref. 2363, dated c. 1997–2000s. All are quartz.
Is the Panthère de Cartier quartz or mechanical?: Quartz. Every vintage Panthère reference Archiva records runs on a Cartier quartz movement. Sotheby's catalogs the small gold Ref. 1280 on the Cal. 157.06 with 4 jewels, and gives the Cal. 157.06 for one small gold Ref. 1070 and the Cal. 154 for another. Fellows catalogs a steel Ref. 1300 on the Cal. 87.06, the small Refs. 1320, 1120 and 166921 on the Cal. 157, a steel and gold Ref. 183949 on the Cal. 83 and most steel and gold Ref. 1100s on the Cal. 87.06. Sotheby's catalogs a gold medium Ref. 8839 on the Cal. 83 with 9 jewels, and Bonhams a gold medium Ref. 1060 on the Cal. 87.06 with 7 jewels. Sotheby's and Fellows catalog the diamond-set small gold Ref. 8057915 on the Cal. 157. For the other references, no auction house or established dealer we consulted names the caliber.
When was the Panthère made?: Cartier introduced it in 1983. Sotheby's records that the line was discontinued in 2004 and relaunched in 2017. The vintage references Archiva records are dated from the 1980s to 2003.
Is a vintage Panthère a women's watch?: Sizes were sold to both. Dealers list the small 22 × 30 mm gold models as ladies' watches, while WannaBuyAWatch describes the steel medium Ref. 1310 as the man's size, as distinct from the man's XL.
What should I check before buying a vintage Panthère?: The number on the case back, which tells you the reference; a bracelet with its links and a clasp that closes firmly; an original dial with painted Roman numerals and the secret signature; blued hands; an intact cabochon in the crown; and a quartz movement that runs. Cartier guarantees and service papers help date a watch.

Next Steps

INHERITOR

Panthère de Cartier

History