The Secret Signature
Introduced 1977
A microscopic 'CARTIER' hidden within the Roman numerals, present on every genuine post-1977 dial.
The 1987 Santos redesign: a curved case and integrated bracelet, made mostly with quartz movements.
Cartier introduced the Santos Galbée in 1987, a more rounded version of the 1978 Santos, launched with quartz movements. Galbé is French for curved: the case sides curve to follow the wrist and run into the integrated bracelet, while the square face, the exposed screws on the bezel and the Roman numeral dial stay. The large quartz models carry a date at 6 o'clock, where the 1978 steel and gold automatic has it at 3.
Archiva documents eleven Galbée references. The large 29 × 41 mm quartz model comes in steel as the Ref. 987901, dated from 1989 to about 1992, and the Ref. 1564, dated from about 1997, and in steel and 18k yellow gold as the Ref. 187901, dated c. 1990–1997, and the Ref. 1566, dated c. 1996–2010. The small 24 × 35 mm model comes in steel as the Ref. 1565 and in steel and 18k yellow gold as the Ref. 1567, dated from 1998 into the 2000s. These six are quartz. The automatic is the Ref. 2319, also 29 × 41 mm, in steel or in steel and 18k yellow gold, with its date at 3 o'clock; dated examples run from the 1990s to 2005. The small automatic is the Ref. 2423, 24 to 25 × 35 mm in steel and 18k yellow gold, dated from the 1990s to about 2005.
Three quartz models in steel and 18k yellow gold add a complication. The Ref. 119901, 29 × 41 mm, and the Ref. 119902, 24 × 35 mm, show a moon phase at 6 o'clock; the 119901 is dated from 1987 to the mid-1990s and the 119902 c. 1990–1995. The Ref. 2425 is a chronograph on the Cal. 222, about 29 mm wide, with its date at 12 o'clock, dated from the 1990s to about 2000; Fellows calls it the Chronoflex.
Catalogs disagree on the quartz calibers. Bukowskis gives Cal. 87 on a 987901, Cal. 687 on a 1564 and both numbers on two 187901s, Fellows has cataloged both on the 1566, and dealers report Cal. 157 in the small 1565, as Van Ham does in a 1567.
Dated examples of the Galbée references run from a 119901 dated 1987 and a 987901 with a warranty dated December 1989 into the 2000s: the automatic 2319 is dated from the 1990s to 2005, and dealers date the 1565 into the 2000s. Examples made through 2001 fall within Archiva's 25-year scope.
The two-tone 187901 pairs a steel case and bracelet with an 18k yellow gold bezel and gold screws. Dial colors in the records include white, silvered, cream and off-white, with Roman numerals; the 987901's numerals are painted blue.
Ref. 1564 · c. 1990s–2000s
Photos by @visueltwatches
Photos by @visueltwatches
The Ref. 1564 is the large all-steel quartz Galbée: a 29 × 41 mm stainless steel case with curved sides, a white dial with black Roman numerals and a date at 6 o'clock, and an integrated steel bracelet, on the Cartier Cal. 687.
11 documented references across 2 eras
| Reference | |
|---|---|
![]() | Ref. 119901Stainless steel and 18k yellow gold · Quartz |
| Ref. 119902Stainless steel and 18k yellow gold · Quartz | |
![]() | Ref. 187901Stainless steel with 18k yellow gold bezel · Quartz |
![]() | Ref. 987901Stainless steel · Quartz |
| Reference | |
|---|---|
![]() | Ref. 1564Stainless steel · Quartz |
![]() | Ref. 1565Stainless steel · Quartz |
| Ref. 1566Stainless steel with 18k yellow gold bezel · Quartz | |
![]() | Ref. 1567Stainless steel with 18k yellow gold bezel · Quartz |
![]() | Ref. 2319Stainless steel, or stainless steel and 18k yellow gold · Automatic |
![]() | Ref. 2423Stainless steel and 18k yellow gold · Automatic |
![]() | Ref. 2425Stainless steel and 18k yellow gold · Quartz |
Choose your reference, set its condition, and see what it's likely to bring. Each estimate uses sales of that exact reference where there are enough of them.
The typical public example: light wear, original-looking dial, runs well. This is the baseline.
Median of 8 sales of Ref. 187901, Nov 2023 to Nov 2026.
Market value is what watches like this sell for publicly, fees included. A dealer buying to resell pays less, because they carry the cost and risk of the resale.
From October 2024 to September 2026, 8 counted sales of Ref. 187901 ran from $2,100 to $5,150, with a middle price of $3,850. The most recent was $5,150 at Henry's in September 2026.
| Date | Ref. | Where | Details | Counts as | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sep 2026 | 187901 | Henry's (via EveryWatch)Auction | White dial, 29 mm, steel and 18k gold, quartz, c.1995, condition 2-3, no box or papers. Sold 19 Sep 2026. EveryWatch does not state whether the price includes the premium. | This reference | $5,169 |
| Jul 2026 | 187901 | Tajan (via EveryWatch)Auction | White dial, 29 mm, steel and 18k gold, quartz, on leather strap with steel deployant, no box or papers. Sold 7 Jul 2026. EveryWatch does not state whether the price includes the premium. | This reference | $3,598 |
| Jul 2026 | 187901 | Eppli (via EveryWatch)Auction | Caramel dial with Roman numerals, 29 mm, steel and 18k gold, quartz, wear on case, bezel and bracelet, damaged crown stone, velvet pouch only. Sold 4 Jul 2026. EveryWatch does not state whether the price includes the premium. | This reference | $3,204 |
| May 2026 | 187901 | Heritage AuctionsAuction | Contemporary Classics Watches Showcase, sale 21191, 18 May 2026, lot 12024. Steel and gold, 29 mm, cal. 687 quartz 7 jewels, date, case 49263, bracelet. Includes buyer's premium. Result read by Kyle from the house's signed-in result page, 5 Nov 2026. | This reference | $4,125 |
| Apr 2026 | 187901 | Maison R&C, DrouotAuction | Badly stretched, damaged bracelet, hazy dial. | This reference | €1,900 hammer≈ $2,850 |
| Nov 2025 | 187901 | DorotheumAuction | Watch only. | This reference | €1,820≈ $2,100 |
| Dec 2024 | 187901 | Aguttes (via Collector Square)Auction | c. 1992. | This reference | €3,954≈ $4,150 |
| Oct 2024 | 187901 | BukowskisAuction | Box and certificate, wear, dial patina. | This reference | SEK 36,000 hammer≈ $4,300 |
Sales from November 2023 to November 2026, or from the last five years for a reference with fewer than three in that time. Only sales that name a reference count toward its estimate; sales of the rest of its version are shown for comparison and never folded in. Auction prices include the buyer's premium unless a row says hammer; dealer prices are the price at sale. Euro, pound and krona figures are converted near the sale date. Bukowskis publishes the hammer price; we add its buyer's premium (about 25%) for the USD figure. Some results come from Collector Square's public results index and are cited to it; they should be confirmed at the auction house before relying on them. Results that some houses show only to signed-in visitors are read from the house's own page with an Archiva account. The condition and option adjustments, the expected bid (75 to 85% of market value) and the auction range (62 to 72%) are working assumptions, to be replaced by Archiva's own bids as they come in. A sale far above or below the other sales of its reference is listed but not counted, so one unusual result can't pull the estimate. An estimate from public results, not an appraisal.
What every buyer, inheritor, and first-time collector should know.
Introduced 1977
A microscopic 'CARTIER' hidden within the Roman numerals, present on every genuine post-1977 dial.
Varies by origin and era
A Cartier case carries the Cartier signature, a reference and serial number on later pieces, and small struck marks for the metal and the case maker. Which marks appear depends on where the case was made: an eagle's head on Paris gold, JC and a date letter on London cases, the Helvetia head on Swiss 18k before 1995. The hallmarks guide shows what each one means.
Varies by era and model
Cartier sourced movements from various Swiss manufacturers throughout history, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, Frédéric Piguet, ETA, and in-house production. Knowing the correct caliber for a specific reference is essential for identifying the watch and establishing provenance.
A Cartier hallmark since the early 20th century
The blue sapphire (or spinel on less precious models) cabochon crown is a Cartier signature. Original crowns show consistent color saturation and are set flush with the crown body. Replacements often show misalignment or incorrect stone dimensions that reveal themselves under magnification.
Check the clasp first
Cartier bracelets carry their own reference markings and the deployment clasp should bear the Cartier name and logo. Aftermarket bracelets are extremely common on vintage pieces, so checking that the clasp is original and that reference numbers match is crucial to the overall picture.
Patina tells the story
Vintage Cartier dials develop characteristic aging: cream dials warm to ivory, lacquer dials may develop fine crazing, and applied indices can show legible wear patterns. Understanding acceptable versus concerning dial aging is key to valuing a vintage piece accurately.
Direct answers about the Cartier Santos Galbée, drawn from the reference records below.
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