The Secret Signature
Introduced 1977
A microscopic 'CARTIER' hidden within the Roman numerals, present on every genuine post-1977 dial.
Cartier's round Pasha of 1985, with a cap over the crown: 38 mm in gold from the 1980s, later also in steel, with or without a protective grille.
Cartier dates the first Pasha to 1985 and counts a chained crown among its design codes.
Analog/Shift credits the design to Gérald Genta and writes that it was supposedly inspired by a one-off commission of 1932 for the Pasha of Marrakesh.
The gold Pashas of the 1980s are round cases of about 38 mm with a cabochon-set screw cap over the crown, held to the case by a small chain. On the Ref. 820903, Monaco Legend describes Vendôme-type lugs, a graduated unidirectional bezel, a blue cabochon cap and a silvered dial with quarter Arabic numerals, a central square with a minute track border and a date at 4 o'clock. Dated examples run from 1985 to 1989, all on leather straps, and the movement is cataloged as the cal. 2824-2.
Its neighbors differ in one feature each. Monaco Legend has sold a smooth-bezel Pasha of 1986, measured at 37.5 mm, as Ref. 820901, one of 1987 on a gold Cartier bracelet as Ref. 820904 and a white gold one of 1989 as 320903, all on the same caliber. Antiquorum has sold two 820904s of the 1990s with a removable gold grille over the crystal.
The Ref. 2378 is the 38 mm Pasha in stainless steel, automatic on the Cartier Cal. 191 with 27 jewels, with a revolving graduated bezel, a sapphire-set crown under a protection cap, a silver guilloché dial and a transparent case back held by screws. Antiquorum dates its two examples to the 1990s, and steel and gold versions are also cataloged under the number.
The Ref. 1040 is also a 38 mm steel automatic Pasha with a graduated bezel, its dials set with applied baton indexes. Bonhams and Bruun Rasmussen catalog it on the Cal. 049 and Antiquorum two examples numbered 1040-1 on the Cal. 191; no catalog found prints 1040 and 2378 on one watch.
The Ref. 1033 is a 38 mm automatic Pasha in stainless steel with an 18k yellow gold revolving graduated bezel, a date and a power reserve indicator, which Antiquorum gives as 45 hours. Antiquorum and Sotheby's catalog it on the Cal. 050 with 21 jewels and date examples to the 1990s.
The Ref. 2379 is the Pasha Grille: the same 38 mm steel case and Cal. 191, with a protective grille over the sapphire crystal that can be removed and a guilloché dial in silver, white or black. Dated examples run from the 1990s to about 2003.
The Ref. 2475 is smaller: a 35 mm steel Pasha with a large double-window date at 6 o'clock, cataloged as the Pasha Grande Date or Pasha Automatic Large Date, automatic on the Cartier Cal. 052 and dated around 2000 and the early 2000s. The Ref. 2324 is the same 35 mm steel size with a magnified date between 4 and 5 o'clock instead, dated c. 1990s–2000, and the Ref. 1035 is the 35 mm Pasha in 18k yellow gold on the Cartier Cal. 049, dated c. 1997–2010s. The Ref. 2308 is the white gold Pasha of 35 to 36 mm, automatic with a date between 4 and 5 o'clock, dated c. 1990s–2010 and often cataloged with diamonds on the bezel or dial; Sotheby's catalogs it on the Cal. 049 and Antiquorum on the Cal. 191. The Ref. 2377 is the Pasha GMT, a 35 to 36 mm steel automatic with a date and a second time zone, dated c. 1998–2010.
The Ref. 30009 is a 38 mm Pasha chronograph in 18k yellow gold with a quartz movement, the Cal. 053, counters for constant seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours, a date and sapphire cabochons on the crown and pushers. Catalogs date examples from about 1990 to 1995, most on a gold Cartier bracelet, and Monaco Legend has sold one of 1991 with blue counters.
The Ref. 2111 is a 38 mm Pasha chronograph in 18k yellow gold, automatic on the Cartier Cal. 205 with 37 jewels, with three registers and a date at 6 o'clock, dated c. 1990s–2002. The Ref. 2113 is the same 38 mm chronograph in stainless steel, on the Cal. 205 with a sapphire display back, dated c. 1998–2005. The Ref. 2412 is a smaller 36 mm steel automatic chronograph with black registers and the date between 4 and 5 o'clock, dated c. 2000–2005, which Fellows catalogs on the Cal. 047. The Ref. 1352 is a 35 to 36 mm steel Pasha chronograph with a quartz movement, the Cartier Cal. 212P, dated c. 1990–2010. The Ref. 1353 is the same 35 to 36 mm Chronoreflex quartz chronograph in 18k yellow gold, which Sotheby's catalogs on the Cal. 212P, dated c. 1990–2010.
The Ref. 1050 is a 38 mm steel Pasha chronograph with a quartz movement and a date, dated c. 1990–2000s. The Ref. 1032 is the same 38 mm quartz chronograph in steel with an 18k yellow gold bezel, dated c. 1990–2000.
The Ref. 0975 is a 38 mm Pasha in 18k yellow gold with an automatic perpetual calendar: subsidiary dials for the day, the date and the month with leap year, and a moon phase at 12 o'clock, on the Cartier Cal. 039. Catalogs date examples from the 1990s to around 2000. Monaco Legend has sold an automatic perpetual calendar of 1991 as Ref. W30026.
The Ref. 30003 is the quartz perpetual calendar in the same 38 mm gold case, with a center seconds hand and a moon phase, on the Cal. 616, dated from about 1988 into the 1990s. The Ref. W30012 adds a minute repeater on gongs to an automatic perpetual calendar with moon phases in the 38 mm gold case; each example carries a small individual number, the examples found are dated from about 1987 to 2005, and Phillips notes a movement stamped GG for Gérald Genta.
The case back separates the gold 820903, 820901 and 820904, the gold chronographs 30009, 2111 and 1353 and the gold perpetual calendars 0975, 30003 and W30012 from the steel chronographs 2113, 2412, 1352 and 1050, the steel and gold 1032 and 1033, the steel 2378, 1040 and 2379, the 35 mm 2475, 2324, 2377 and 1035 and the white gold 2308. Then check the bezel against the reference, the cap over the crown, the movement through the transparent back of a steel 2378 or 2379 and, on a 2379, the grille.
Ref. 820903 · c. 1985–1989



Photos by @sarkowatches
The Ref. 820903: a 38 mm Pasha in 18k yellow gold with an automatic movement, made c. 1985–1989. Monaco Legend catalogs it with a graduated unidirectional bezel, a blue cabochon screw cap held to the case by a small chain, a silvered dial with quarter Arabic numerals, a central square with a minute track border and a date at 4 o'clock, and the cal. 2824-2. One has been sold with a champagne dial, and every example found is on a leather strap.
24 documented references across 2 eras
| Reference | |
|---|---|
| Ref. 2378Stainless Steel · Automatic | |
![]() | Ref. 2379Stainless Steel · Automatic |
| Ref. 3000318k Yellow Gold · Quartz | |
| Ref. 3000918k Yellow Gold · Quartz | |
| Ref. 82090118k Yellow Gold · Automatic | |
![]() | Ref. 82090318k Yellow Gold · Automatic |
| Ref. 82090418k Yellow Gold · Automatic | |
| Ref. W3001218k Yellow Gold · Automatic |
| Reference | |
|---|---|
| Ref. 097518k Yellow Gold · Automatic | |
| Ref. 1031Stainless Steel · Automatic | |
| Ref. 1032Stainless Steel and 18k Yellow Gold · Quartz | |
| Ref. 1033Stainless steel and 18k yellow gold · Automatic | |
| Ref. 103518k Yellow Gold · Automatic | |
| Ref. 1040Stainless Steel · Automatic | |
| Ref. 1050Stainless Steel · Quartz | |
| Ref. 1352Stainless Steel · Quartz | |
| Ref. 135318k Yellow Gold · Quartz | |
| Ref. 211118k Yellow Gold · Automatic | |
| Ref. 2113Stainless Steel · Automatic | |
| Ref. 230818k White Gold · Automatic | |
| Ref. 2324Stainless Steel · Automatic | |
| Ref. 2377Stainless Steel · Automatic | |
| Ref. 2412Stainless Steel · Automatic | |
![]() | Ref. 2475Stainless Steel · Automatic |
Choose your reference, set its condition, and see what it's likely to bring. Each estimate uses sales of that exact reference where there are enough of them.
The typical public example: light wear, original-looking dial, runs well. This is the baseline.
Median of 4 sales of Ref. 1035, Nov 2023 to Nov 2026.
Market value is what watches like this sell for publicly, fees included. A dealer buying to resell pays less, because they carry the cost and risk of the resale.
From March 2024 to August 2026, 4 counted sales of Ref. 1035 ran from $6,600 to $11,050, with a middle price of $9,400. The most recent was $11,050 at Grailzee in August 2026.
| Date | Ref. | Where | Details | Counts as | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Aug 2026 | 1035 | Grailzee (via EveryWatch)Auction | 18k yellow gold 35 mm automatic, champagne Roman dial, leather strap; box, no papers; fair condition | This reference | $11,025 |
| Jun 2026 | 1035 | Il Ponte (via EveryWatch)Auction | Gold 35 mm automatic cal. 049, white Arabic dial, date, gold bracelet, c.1990; no box or papers | This reference | $9,675 |
| Dec 2024 | 1035 | Sotheby'sAuction | Fine Watches, lot 503, closed 13 Dec 2024. Catalogued as Reference 1035 1. 18k yellow gold, 35.5 mm, cal. 049 automatic 21 jewels, movement 21'590, case C 68'516, c.2000, no box or papers. Result includes premium. Result read by Kyle from the house's signed-in result page, 5 Nov 2026. | This reference | USD 6,600 |
| Mar 2024 | 1035 | AguttesAuction | Lot 59. 18k yellow gold 35 mm automatic, cream dial, date, gold bracelet, c.1997; warranty certificate; sold as is, needs service | This reference | EUR 8,450 (with fees)≈ $9,150 |
| May 2026 | 1035 | Bonhams (via EveryWatch) | 18k gold 35 mm automatic cal. 049, silvered dial, gold bracelet, c.2010; no box or papers | Not countedDiamond-set bezel | $18,923 |
| Jun 2025 | 1035 | Monaco Legend Auctions | Exclusive Timepieces, Lugano. Lot 71. Yellow gold 35 mm automatic cal. 049, c.2000s, leather strap | Not countedPave diamond dial and diamond-set bezel and lugs | CHF 8,750≈ $10,700 |
| Jul 2022 | 1035 | Antiquorum MonacoAuction | Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces, Monaco. Lot 298, 19 Jul 2022. 'REF. 1035', case MG 311 890, circa 2010-2020, 18K yellow gold, 35 mm, Caliber 049, white-silver dial with large Arabic numerals, polished bezel, integrated 18K yellow gold Cartier bracelet; sold without reserve. Printed 'Sold: EUR 6,500'; the page does not say whether that includes the premium. Est. EUR 5-8k. | Not countedolder than the three-year window | EUR 6,500≈ $6,650 |
Sales from November 2023 to November 2026, or from the last five years for a reference with fewer than three in that time. Only sales that name a reference count toward its estimate; sales of the rest of its version are shown for comparison and never folded in. Auction prices include the buyer's premium unless a row says hammer; dealer prices are the price at sale. Currency figures are converted near the sale date. Hammer prices are marked and exclude the buyer's premium. Rows via Collector Square come from its public results index and should be confirmed at the auction house. Results that some houses show only to signed-in visitors are read from the house's own page with an Archiva account. The condition and option adjustments, the expected bid (75 to 85% of market value) and the auction range (62 to 72%) are working assumptions, to be replaced by Archiva's own bids as they come in. A sale far above or below the other sales of its reference is listed but not counted, so one unusual result can't pull the estimate. An estimate from public results, not an appraisal.
What every buyer, inheritor, and first-time collector should know.
Introduced 1977
A microscopic 'CARTIER' hidden within the Roman numerals, present on every genuine post-1977 dial.
Varies by origin and era
A Cartier case carries the Cartier signature, a reference and serial number on later pieces, and small struck marks for the metal and the case maker. Which marks appear depends on where the case was made: an eagle's head on Paris gold, JC and a date letter on London cases, the Helvetia head on Swiss 18k before 1995. The hallmarks guide shows what each one means.
Varies by era and model
Cartier sourced movements from various Swiss manufacturers throughout history, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, Frédéric Piguet, ETA, and in-house production. Knowing the correct caliber for a specific reference is essential for identifying the watch and establishing provenance.
A Cartier hallmark since the early 20th century
The blue sapphire (or spinel on less precious models) cabochon crown is a Cartier signature. Original crowns show consistent color saturation and are set flush with the crown body. Replacements often show misalignment or incorrect stone dimensions that reveal themselves under magnification.
Check the clasp first
Cartier bracelets carry their own reference markings and the deployment clasp should bear the Cartier name and logo. Aftermarket bracelets are extremely common on vintage pieces, so checking that the clasp is original and that reference numbers match is crucial to the overall picture.
Patina tells the story
Vintage Cartier dials develop characteristic aging: cream dials warm to ivory, lacquer dials may develop fine crazing, and applied indices can show legible wear patterns. Understanding acceptable versus concerning dial aging is key to valuing a vintage piece accurately.
Direct answers about the Pasha de Cartier, drawn from the reference records below.
Read the reference on the case back, then note the metal, the size and whether there is a grille: they tell the gold 820903, the steel 2378 and 2379 and the 35 mm 2475 apart.
START HERE →BUYERKnow the gold, steel and Grille references, the movement each should carry and what to check before you buy.
CHECK BEFORE YOU BUY →SELLERStart with the reference, the metal and the movement: a gold 820903, a steel 2378 or 2379 and a 35 mm 2475 are different watches.
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