Cartier

Pasha de Cartier

Cartier's round Pasha of 1985, with a cap over the crown: 38 mm in gold from the 1980s, later also in steel, with or without a protective grille.

History

Origins

Cartier dates the first Pasha to 1985 and counts a chained crown among its design codes.

Analog/Shift credits the design to Gérald Genta and writes that it was supposedly inspired by a one-off commission of 1932 for the Pasha of Marrakesh.

The 1985 Design

The gold Pashas of the 1980s are round cases of about 38 mm with a cabochon-set screw cap over the crown, held to the case by a small chain. On the Ref. 820903, Monaco Legend describes Vendôme-type lugs, a graduated unidirectional bezel, a blue cabochon cap and a silvered dial with quarter Arabic numerals, a central square with a minute track border and a date at 4 o'clock. Dated examples run from 1985 to 1989, all on leather straps, and the movement is cataloged as the cal. 2824-2.

Its neighbors differ in one feature each. Monaco Legend has sold a smooth-bezel Pasha of 1986, measured at 37.5 mm, as Ref. 820901, one of 1987 on a gold Cartier bracelet as Ref. 820904 and a white gold one of 1989 as 320903, all on the same caliber. Antiquorum has sold two 820904s of the 1990s with a removable gold grille over the crystal.

The Steel Pashas

The Ref. 2378 is the 38 mm Pasha in stainless steel, automatic on the Cartier Cal. 191 with 27 jewels, with a revolving graduated bezel, a sapphire-set crown under a protection cap, a silver guilloché dial and a transparent case back held by screws. Antiquorum dates its two examples to the 1990s, and steel and gold versions are also cataloged under the number.

The Ref. 1040 is also a 38 mm steel automatic Pasha with a graduated bezel, its dials set with applied baton indexes. Bonhams and Bruun Rasmussen catalog it on the Cal. 049 and Antiquorum two examples numbered 1040-1 on the Cal. 191; no catalog found prints 1040 and 2378 on one watch.

The Ref. 1033 is a 38 mm automatic Pasha in stainless steel with an 18k yellow gold revolving graduated bezel, a date and a power reserve indicator, which Antiquorum gives as 45 hours. Antiquorum and Sotheby's catalog it on the Cal. 050 with 21 jewels and date examples to the 1990s.

The Ref. 2379 is the Pasha Grille: the same 38 mm steel case and Cal. 191, with a protective grille over the sapphire crystal that can be removed and a guilloché dial in silver, white or black. Dated examples run from the 1990s to about 2003.

The Ref. 2475 is smaller: a 35 mm steel Pasha with a large double-window date at 6 o'clock, cataloged as the Pasha Grande Date or Pasha Automatic Large Date, automatic on the Cartier Cal. 052 and dated around 2000 and the early 2000s. The Ref. 2324 is the same 35 mm steel size with a magnified date between 4 and 5 o'clock instead, dated c. 1990s–2000, and the Ref. 1035 is the 35 mm Pasha in 18k yellow gold on the Cartier Cal. 049, dated c. 1997–2010s. The Ref. 2308 is the white gold Pasha of 35 to 36 mm, automatic with a date between 4 and 5 o'clock, dated c. 1990s–2010 and often cataloged with diamonds on the bezel or dial; Sotheby's catalogs it on the Cal. 049 and Antiquorum on the Cal. 191. The Ref. 2377 is the Pasha GMT, a 35 to 36 mm steel automatic with a date and a second time zone, dated c. 1998–2010.

The Chronographs

The Ref. 30009 is a 38 mm Pasha chronograph in 18k yellow gold with a quartz movement, the Cal. 053, counters for constant seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours, a date and sapphire cabochons on the crown and pushers. Catalogs date examples from about 1990 to 1995, most on a gold Cartier bracelet, and Monaco Legend has sold one of 1991 with blue counters.

The Ref. 2111 is a 38 mm Pasha chronograph in 18k yellow gold, automatic on the Cartier Cal. 205 with 37 jewels, with three registers and a date at 6 o'clock, dated c. 1990s–2002. The Ref. 2113 is the same 38 mm chronograph in stainless steel, on the Cal. 205 with a sapphire display back, dated c. 1998–2005. The Ref. 2412 is a smaller 36 mm steel automatic chronograph with black registers and the date between 4 and 5 o'clock, dated c. 2000–2005, which Fellows catalogs on the Cal. 047. The Ref. 1352 is a 35 to 36 mm steel Pasha chronograph with a quartz movement, the Cartier Cal. 212P, dated c. 1990–2010. The Ref. 1353 is the same 35 to 36 mm Chronoreflex quartz chronograph in 18k yellow gold, which Sotheby's catalogs on the Cal. 212P, dated c. 1990–2010.

The Ref. 1050 is a 38 mm steel Pasha chronograph with a quartz movement and a date, dated c. 1990–2000s. The Ref. 1032 is the same 38 mm quartz chronograph in steel with an 18k yellow gold bezel, dated c. 1990–2000.

The Perpetual Calendar

The Ref. 0975 is a 38 mm Pasha in 18k yellow gold with an automatic perpetual calendar: subsidiary dials for the day, the date and the month with leap year, and a moon phase at 12 o'clock, on the Cartier Cal. 039. Catalogs date examples from the 1990s to around 2000. Monaco Legend has sold an automatic perpetual calendar of 1991 as Ref. W30026.

The Ref. 30003 is the quartz perpetual calendar in the same 38 mm gold case, with a center seconds hand and a moon phase, on the Cal. 616, dated from about 1988 into the 1990s. The Ref. W30012 adds a minute repeater on gongs to an automatic perpetual calendar with moon phases in the 38 mm gold case; each example carries a small individual number, the examples found are dated from about 1987 to 2005, and Phillips notes a movement stamped GG for Gérald Genta.

Telling Them Apart

The case back separates the gold 820903, 820901 and 820904, the gold chronographs 30009, 2111 and 1353 and the gold perpetual calendars 0975, 30003 and W30012 from the steel chronographs 2113, 2412, 1352 and 1050, the steel and gold 1032 and 1033, the steel 2378, 1040 and 2379, the 35 mm 2475, 2324, 2377 and 1035 and the white gold 2308. Then check the bezel against the reference, the cap over the crown, the movement through the transparent back of a steel 2378 or 2379 and, on a 2379, the grille.

Quintessential Reference

Ref. 820903 · c. 1985–1989

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Photos by @sarkowatches

Reference
820903
18k yellow gold, automatic, graduated bezel
Year
c. 1985–1989
Monaco Legend's dated examples run from 1985 to 1989; Antiquorum dates one to 1988
Movement
Automatic
Cal. 2824-2 (ETA base), automatic
Case
38 mm, 18k Yellow Gold
Dial
Silvered or champagne
Quarter Arabic numerals, a central square with a minute track border, date at 4 o'clock
Hands
Not described in the catalogs consulted
Crystal
Not stated in the catalogs consulted
Strap
Leather strap
With an 18k gold Cartier buckle or deployant clasp

The Ref. 820903: a 38 mm Pasha in 18k yellow gold with an automatic movement, made c. 1985–1989. Monaco Legend catalogs it with a graduated unidirectional bezel, a blue cabochon screw cap held to the case by a small chain, a silvered dial with quarter Arabic numerals, a central square with a minute track border and a date at 4 o'clock, and the cal. 2824-2. One has been sold with a champagne dial, and every example found is on a leather strap.

Other Known References

24 documented references across 2 eras

Reunion & Democratization1964–1992
8 refs
Reference
Ref. 2378Stainless Steel · Automatic
Ref. 2379
Ref. 2379Stainless Steel · Automatic
Ref. 3000318k Yellow Gold · Quartz
Ref. 3000918k Yellow Gold · Quartz
Ref. 82090118k Yellow Gold · Automatic
Ref. 820903
Ref. 82090318k Yellow Gold · Automatic
Ref. 82090418k Yellow Gold · Automatic
Ref. W3001218k Yellow Gold · Automatic
Modern Manufacture1993–2001
16 refs
Reference
Ref. 097518k Yellow Gold · Automatic
Ref. 1031Stainless Steel · Automatic
Ref. 1032Stainless Steel and 18k Yellow Gold · Quartz
Ref. 1033Stainless steel and 18k yellow gold · Automatic
Ref. 103518k Yellow Gold · Automatic
Ref. 1040Stainless Steel · Automatic
Ref. 1050Stainless Steel · Quartz
Ref. 1352Stainless Steel · Quartz
Ref. 135318k Yellow Gold · Quartz
Ref. 211118k Yellow Gold · Automatic
Ref. 2113Stainless Steel · Automatic
Ref. 230818k White Gold · Automatic
Ref. 2324Stainless Steel · Automatic
Ref. 2377Stainless Steel · Automatic
Ref. 2412Stainless Steel · Automatic
Ref. 2475
Ref. 2475Stainless Steel · Automatic

What is a Pasha de Cartier worth?

Choose your reference, set its condition, and see what it's likely to bring. Each estimate uses sales of that exact reference where there are enough of them.

Which reference is yours?
Very good
Needs workFairVery goodExcellentExceptional

The typical public example: light wear, original-looking dial, runs well. This is the baseline.

Estimated market value
$9,400
Likely range $8,450 to $10,350

Median of 4 sales of Ref. 1035, Nov 2023 to Nov 2026.

Median $9,400
Condition: Very good ×1.00
What a dealer would likely pay$7,050 to $8,000Dealers buying to resell usually pay 75 to 85% of market value.

Market value is what watches like this sell for publicly, fees included. A dealer buying to resell pays less, because they carry the cost and risk of the resale.

From March 2024 to August 2026, 4 counted sales of Ref. 1035 ran from $6,600 to $11,050, with a middle price of $9,400. The most recent was $11,050 at Grailzee in August 2026.

See all 7 sales of Ref. 1035: 4 counted, 3 not
DateRef.WhereDetailsCounts asPrice
Aug 20261035Grailzee (via EveryWatch)Auction18k yellow gold 35 mm automatic, champagne Roman dial, leather strap; box, no papers; fair conditionThis reference$11,025
Jun 20261035Il Ponte (via EveryWatch)AuctionGold 35 mm automatic cal. 049, white Arabic dial, date, gold bracelet, c.1990; no box or papersThis reference$9,675
Dec 20241035Sotheby'sAuctionFine Watches, lot 503, closed 13 Dec 2024. Catalogued as Reference 1035 1. 18k yellow gold, 35.5 mm, cal. 049 automatic 21 jewels, movement 21'590, case C 68'516, c.2000, no box or papers. Result includes premium. Result read by Kyle from the house's signed-in result page, 5 Nov 2026.This referenceUSD 6,600
Mar 20241035AguttesAuctionLot 59. 18k yellow gold 35 mm automatic, cream dial, date, gold bracelet, c.1997; warranty certificate; sold as is, needs serviceThis referenceEUR 8,450 (with fees)≈ $9,150
May 20261035Bonhams (via EveryWatch)18k gold 35 mm automatic cal. 049, silvered dial, gold bracelet, c.2010; no box or papersNot countedDiamond-set bezel$18,923
Jun 20251035Monaco Legend AuctionsExclusive Timepieces, Lugano. Lot 71. Yellow gold 35 mm automatic cal. 049, c.2000s, leather strapNot countedPave diamond dial and diamond-set bezel and lugsCHF 8,750≈ $10,700
Jul 20221035Antiquorum MonacoAuctionImportant Modern & Vintage Timepieces, Monaco. Lot 298, 19 Jul 2022. 'REF. 1035', case MG 311 890, circa 2010-2020, 18K yellow gold, 35 mm, Caliber 049, white-silver dial with large Arabic numerals, polished bezel, integrated 18K yellow gold Cartier bracelet; sold without reserve. Printed 'Sold: EUR 6,500'; the page does not say whether that includes the premium. Est. EUR 5-8k.Not countedolder than the three-year windowEUR 6,500≈ $6,650

Sales from November 2023 to November 2026, or from the last five years for a reference with fewer than three in that time. Only sales that name a reference count toward its estimate; sales of the rest of its version are shown for comparison and never folded in. Auction prices include the buyer's premium unless a row says hammer; dealer prices are the price at sale. Currency figures are converted near the sale date. Hammer prices are marked and exclude the buyer's premium. Rows via Collector Square come from its public results index and should be confirmed at the auction house. Results that some houses show only to signed-in visitors are read from the house's own page with an Archiva account. The condition and option adjustments, the expected bid (75 to 85% of market value) and the auction range (62 to 72%) are working assumptions, to be replaced by Archiva's own bids as they come in. A sale far above or below the other sales of its reference is listed but not counted, so one unusual result can't pull the estimate. An estimate from public results, not an appraisal.

Collector's Corner

What every buyer, inheritor, and first-time collector should know.

Buying Guide

01DIAL

The Secret Signature

Introduced 1977

A microscopic 'CARTIER' hidden within the Roman numerals, present on every genuine post-1977 dial.

02CASE

Case Back Hallmarks

Varies by origin and era

A Cartier case carries the Cartier signature, a reference and serial number on later pieces, and small struck marks for the metal and the case maker. Which marks appear depends on where the case was made: an eagle's head on Paris gold, JC and a date letter on London cases, the Helvetia head on Swiss 18k before 1995. The hallmarks guide shows what each one means.

03MOVEMENT

Movement Sourcing

Varies by era and model

Cartier sourced movements from various Swiss manufacturers throughout history, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, Frédéric Piguet, ETA, and in-house production. Knowing the correct caliber for a specific reference is essential for identifying the watch and establishing provenance.

04CROWN

Crown Sapphire Cabochon

A Cartier hallmark since the early 20th century

The blue sapphire (or spinel on less precious models) cabochon crown is a Cartier signature. Original crowns show consistent color saturation and are set flush with the crown body. Replacements often show misalignment or incorrect stone dimensions that reveal themselves under magnification.

05BRACELET

Bracelet and Clasp Markings

Check the clasp first

Cartier bracelets carry their own reference markings and the deployment clasp should bear the Cartier name and logo. Aftermarket bracelets are extremely common on vintage pieces, so checking that the clasp is original and that reference numbers match is crucial to the overall picture.

06DIAL

Dial Aging and Patina

Patina tells the story

Vintage Cartier dials develop characteristic aging: cream dials warm to ivory, lacquer dials may develop fine crazing, and applied indices can show legible wear patterns. Understanding acceptable versus concerning dial aging is key to valuing a vintage piece accurately.

Questions collectors ask

Direct answers about the Pasha de Cartier, drawn from the reference records below.

What is a Pasha de Cartier worth?

Public auction and dealer results from November 2023 to November 2026 put the 38 mm 18k yellow gold automatic (Ref. 1989, 820901) at $5,250 to $8,550, median $6,100 across 4 sales; the 38 mm steel or steel with gold bezel automatic (Ref. 1040, 2378) at $1,650 to $1,950, median $1,800 across 4 sales; the 38 mm steel pasha grille automatic (Ref. 2379) at $2,450 to $2,700, median $2,600 across 2 sales; the 35 mm steel automatic (Ref. 2324, 2475) at $2,200 to $2,500, median $2,400 across 6 sales; the 35-36 mm 18k gold (Ref. 1035) at $8,500 to $10,000, median $9,400 across 4 sales; the pasha chronograph (steel or 18k gold automatic or quartz) (Ref. 30009, 1050) at $2,250 to $8,450, median $3,550 across 15 sales; the 38 mm 18k yellow gold automatic perpetual calendar (Ref. 0975, W30026) at $18,150 to $19,650, median $18,900 across 2 sales; the 35-36 mm steel automatic gmt (Ref. 2377) at $1,550 to $1,850, median $1,700 across 4 sales; and the 38 mm 18k yellow gold quartz perpetual calendar (Ref. 30003) at $7,450 to $9,550, median $8,650 across 4 sales. Condition, a recent Cartier service, and the original box and papers move an individual watch within or beyond these ranges, and the calculator on this page adjusts for each.

How much will a dealer pay for a Pasha de Cartier?

Dealers buying to resell usually bid about 75 to 85% of public market value, because they carry the cost and risk of the resale. For a pasha chronograph (steel or 18k gold automatic or quartz) Pasha de Cartier at the recent median of $3,550, that suggests bids of roughly $2,700 to $3,050. Archiva is opening a panel of specialist dealers who bid blind, with the seller keeping the whole winning bid.

Who designed the Pasha de Cartier?

Analog/Shift credits Gérald Genta with the Pasha, launched in 1985, and writes that it was supposedly inspired by a one-off commission of 1932 for the Pasha of Marrakesh.

How do I tell which Pasha reference I have?

Read the reference on the case back. The 820903 is the 38 mm Pasha in 18k yellow gold with a graduated bezel, dated c. 1985–1989 and cataloged on leather straps; the 820901 is the same gold Pasha with a smooth bezel, measured at 37.5 mm and dated c. 1986–1990. The 820904 is a 38 mm gold automatic with a graduated bezel on the cal. 2824-2, dated c. 1987–1990s and cataloged on a gold Cartier bracelet by Monaco Legend and with a removable gold grille by Antiquorum, and Monaco Legend has sold a white gold one as 320903. The 30009 is a 38 mm 18k yellow gold quartz chronograph with a date on the Cal. 053, dated c. 1990–1995. The 2111 is the 38 mm gold automatic chronograph on the Cal. 205, and the 2113 the same chronograph in steel; the 2412 is a 36 mm steel automatic chronograph and the 1352 a 35 to 36 mm steel quartz chronograph on the Cal. 212P, with the 1353 the same chronograph in 18k gold. The 1050 is a 38 mm steel quartz chronograph with a date, and the 1032 the same chronograph in steel with a gold bezel. The 2378 is the 38 mm steel automatic on the Cal. 191, and the 2379 is the Pasha Grille, the same steel watch with a removable protective grille over the crystal. The 1040 is a 38 mm steel automatic with applied baton indexes, cataloged on the Cal. 049 and, as 1040-1, on the Cal. 191. The 1033 is a 38 mm automatic in steel with an 18k yellow gold graduated bezel, a date and a power reserve indicator, cataloged on the Cal. 050. The 2475 is the 35 mm steel Pasha with a large double-window date at 6 o'clock, cataloged as the Pasha Grande Date or Pasha Automatic Large Date; the 2324 is the 35 mm steel Pasha with a magnified date between 4 and 5 o'clock, and the 1035 the 35 mm Pasha in 18k yellow gold on the Cal. 049. The 2308 is the 35 to 36 mm Pasha in 18k white gold, automatic with a date, often cataloged with diamonds on the bezel or dial. The 2377 is the Pasha GMT, a 35 to 36 mm steel automatic with a second time zone. The 0975 is a 38 mm 18k yellow gold Pasha with an automatic perpetual calendar, showing the day, the date and the month with leap year and a moon phase at 12 o'clock, on the Cartier Cal. 039. The 30003 is the 38 mm gold perpetual calendar with a quartz movement, the Cal. 616, and the W30012 a 38 mm gold automatic perpetual calendar with a minute repeater, each example individually numbered.

What is the cap over the Pasha's crown?

A protective screw cap over the crown. Catalogs describe a blue cabochon screw cap held by a small chain on the gold 820903, a sapphire-set crown under a protection cap on the steel 2378, a cabochon-set protective cap on a security link on the 2379, with an onyx cabochon on two examples, and a cap that is hinged on one 2475 and chained on another. Check that the cap screws down and that any chain and cabochon are present.

Is the Pasha automatic or quartz?

Both. Most Pashas with a reference page here are automatic: Monaco Legend catalogs the gold 820903 on the cal. 2824-2; the steel 2378 and 2379 run on the Cartier Cal. 191 with 27 jewels, the 35 mm 2475 on the Cartier Cal. 052 with 21 jewels, the steel and gold 1033 with a power reserve on the Cal. 050 and the 0975 perpetual calendar on the Cartier Cal. 039. One c. 2003 example listed as a 2379 has a caliber 2824 with 17 jewels instead, and one 2475 has been cataloged with a Cal. 8000 MC. The 30009, a 38 mm gold chronograph of c. 1990–1995, is quartz, on the Cal. 053 with 22 jewels, as are the steel chronograph 1352 and the gold 1353 on the Cal. 212P and the 38 mm chronographs 1050 and 1032, and so is the 30003, a 38 mm gold perpetual calendar that Antiquorum and Sotheby's catalog on the quartz Cal. 616.

Is a Ref. 2378 with a gold bezel original?

It can be. Antiquorum offered a 2378 in steel and yellow gold with a gold graduated bezel in 2006, and Wright sold a steel and gold 2378 in 2021, both 38 mm on the Cal. 191. The all-steel 2378 is cataloged with a silver guilloché dial and a Cartier steel bracelet with a deployant clasp.

What should I check before buying a vintage Pasha?

The reference on the case back against the metal and the size; the cap over the crown, with its chain and cabochon; a bezel that matches the reference, graduated on the 820903, 2378 and 2379 and smooth on the 820901; the movement, Cal. 191 in the steel 2378 and 2379 and cal. 2824-2 in the gold 820903; and on a 2379, a grille that is present and seats securely.