What is the Cartier Tank Allongée?

An elongated Tank: a narrow rectangular case stretched along its length, with the Tank's brancards and a flat, stretched dial. Analog/Shift writes that Cartier introduced it in 1922 alongside the Tank Louis Cartier. The vintage examples documented on Archiva are small ladies' watches, about 14 mm wide.

Which Tank Allongée references are vintage?

The Ref. 1380, the small quartz model in 18k yellow gold, has dated examples from about 1985 to 2005. Sotheby's has also sold a mechanical Mini Tank Allongée in white gold with a Paris dial of about 1975 that carries no reference number. Amsterdam Watch Company has sold a yellow gold Allongée as Ref. 2443, dated circa 1995.

Is the Tank Allongée quartz or mechanical?

Both, by era. The Mini Tank Allongée Sotheby's dates to about 1975 is mechanical, with 17 jewels. The Ref. 1380 is quartz, cataloged by Sotheby's on the Cartier Cal. 028 with 5 jewels.

What is the Tank J.J.C. Allongée?

A different watch: Sotheby's describes the J.J.C. Allongée as a white gold Tank made in limited numbers by Cartier London in the early 1990s. It is not the Paris Ref. 1380.

Cartier

Tank Allongée

The stretched Tank: a narrow, elongated rectangle that Analog/Shift dates to 1922, made as a small mechanical Paris watch in the 1970s and as the quartz Ref. 1380 from the 1980s.

View references Collector's Corner

History

The Stretched Tank

Analog/Shift writes that Cartier introduced the Tank Allongée in 1922, alongside the Tank Louis Cartier, as a stretched or elongated version of the Tank, with slightly narrower brancards and a flat, stretched dial. No auction catalog we consulted gives a launch year.

The Small Allongée

The vintage Allongées that reach auction are small. Sotheby's has sold a Mini Tank Allongée in 18k white gold with diamonds and a Paris dial, about 28.5 × 14 mm, mechanical with 17 jewels, circa 1975, with no reference number.

The quartz Ref. 1380 followed in 18k yellow gold, 14 × 28 mm, with a sapphire cabochon crown and radial Roman numerals. Sotheby's dates a gem-set example, cataloged as 13801, circa 1985, on the Cartier Cal. 028 with 5 jewels; Antiquorum sold a plain example made in 1997, and Amsterdam Watch Company and Sotheby's date examples circa 2005. Amsterdam Watch Company has also sold a yellow gold Allongée of similar size as Ref. 2443, dated circa 1995.

Cartier London

Sotheby's describes a separate line, the Tank J.J.C. Allongée, as produced in limited numbers by Cartier London in the early 1990s in white gold, with a slender rectangular case and a minimalist dial. Analog/Shift has sold white gold Allongées numbered 2680 and 2544.

Quintessential Reference

Ref. 1380 · c. 1985–2005

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Reference: 1380; Small model, 18k yellow gold, quartz
Year: c. 1985–2005; Sotheby's dates a gem-set 13801 circa 1985 and Antiquorum a diamond-set 1380 to the 1980s; Antiquorum records a plain example made in 1997, and Amsterdam Watch Company and Sotheby's date examples circa 2005
Movement: Quartz; Cartier Cal. 028 quartz, 5 jewels, per Sotheby's on a 13801; Antiquorum catalogs the movement only as quartz
Case: 14 × 28 mm, 18k Yellow Gold
Dial: Ivory or silvered; Painted radial Roman numerals and the secret Cartier signature in the VII; gem-set examples have a mother-of-pearl dial
Hands: Blued steel; Épée (sword-shaped)
Crystal: Sapphire; Sapphire crystal and a sapphire cabochon in the crown, per Antiquorum; Amsterdam Watch Company lists a mineral crystal on one example
Strap: Leather strap; 18k yellow gold Cartier buckle or deployant clasp; gem-set examples on an 18k gold and pearl-set Cartier bracelet

The Ref. 1380, the small quartz Tank Allongée in 18k yellow gold: 14 × 28 mm, with a sapphire cabochon crown, radial Roman numerals and blued hands. Antiquorum sold one made in 1997, and Sotheby's cataloged a gem-set version as 13801, circa 1985, on the Cartier Cal. 028.

Other Known References

1 documented reference across 1 era

Reunion & Democratization1964–1992

1 ref

	Reference	Case Material	Movement	Case Size	Dial	Crystal
	Ref. 138018k Yellow Gold · Quartz	18k Yellow Gold	Quartz	14 × 28 mm	Ivory or silvered	Sapphire

Collector's Corner

What every buyer, inheritor, and first-time collector should know.

Buying Guide

01DIAL

The Secret Signature

Introduced 1977

A microscopic 'CARTIER' hidden within the Roman numerals, present on every genuine post-1977 dial.

02CASE

Case Back Hallmarks

Varies by origin and era

A Cartier case carries the Cartier signature, a reference and serial number on later pieces, and small struck marks for the metal and the case maker. Which marks appear depends on where the case was made: an eagle's head on Paris gold, JC and a date letter on London cases, the Helvetia head on Swiss 18k before 1995. The hallmarks guide shows what each one means.

03MOVEMENT

Movement Sourcing

Varies by era and model

Cartier sourced movements from various Swiss manufacturers throughout history, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, Frédéric Piguet, ETA, and in-house production. Knowing the correct caliber for a specific reference is essential for identifying the watch and establishing provenance.

04CROWN

Crown Sapphire Cabochon

A Cartier hallmark since the early 20th century

The blue sapphire (or spinel on less precious models) cabochon crown is a Cartier signature. Original crowns show consistent color saturation and are set flush with the crown body. Replacements often show misalignment or incorrect stone dimensions that reveal themselves under magnification.

05BRACELET

Bracelet and Clasp Markings

Check the clasp first

Cartier bracelets carry their own reference markings and the deployment clasp should bear the Cartier name and logo. Aftermarket bracelets are extremely common on vintage pieces, so checking that the clasp is original and that reference numbers match is crucial to the overall picture.

06DIAL

Dial Aging and Patina

Patina tells the story

Vintage Cartier dials develop characteristic aging: cream dials warm to ivory, lacquer dials may develop fine crazing, and applied indices can show legible wear patterns. Understanding acceptable versus concerning dial aging is key to valuing a vintage piece accurately.

Questions collectors ask

Direct answers about the Cartier Tank Allongée, drawn from the reference records below.

What is the Cartier Tank Allongée?: An elongated Tank: a narrow rectangular case stretched along its length, with the Tank's brancards and a flat, stretched dial. Analog/Shift writes that Cartier introduced it in 1922 alongside the Tank Louis Cartier. The vintage examples documented on Archiva are small ladies' watches, about 14 mm wide.
Which Tank Allongée references are vintage?: The Ref. 1380, the small quartz model in 18k yellow gold, has dated examples from about 1985 to 2005. Sotheby's has also sold a mechanical Mini Tank Allongée in white gold with a Paris dial of about 1975 that carries no reference number. Amsterdam Watch Company has sold a yellow gold Allongée as Ref. 2443, dated circa 1995.
Is the Tank Allongée quartz or mechanical?: Both, by era. The Mini Tank Allongée Sotheby's dates to about 1975 is mechanical, with 17 jewels. The Ref. 1380 is quartz, cataloged by Sotheby's on the Cartier Cal. 028 with 5 jewels.
What is the Tank J.J.C. Allongée?: A different watch: Sotheby's describes the J.J.C. Allongée as a white gold Tank made in limited numbers by Cartier London in the early 1990s. It is not the Paris Ref. 1380.

Next Steps

INHERITOR