01DIAL
The Secret Signature
Introduced 1977
A microscopic 'CARTIER' hidden within the Roman numerals, present on every genuine post-1977 dial.
Cartier
Tank Chinoise
Cartier's square Tank of 1922, with a raised bar across each end of the case, made in 18k yellow gold with hand-wound movements and no reference number into the 1970s.
History
A Square Tank of 1922
Christie's gives 1922 for the launch of the Tank Chinoise, in a note that refers to Franco Cologni's book on the Tank, and Sotheby's and Monaco Legend give the same year. The case is square rather than rectangular, with a raised bar at each end that overlaps the sides.
Monaco Legend calls it a more masculine variant of the first Tanks and writes that it took its inspiration from the portals of Chinese temples.
The Original Tank Chinoise
The original Tank Chinoise was made without a reference number, in 18k yellow gold in every record with a stated color, and hand-wound. Most examples are about 23 mm wide, cataloged as 23 × 30 mm or 24 × 31 mm and in some catalogs as 23 × 23 mm, with a white or silvered dial, painted Roman numerals and blued steel hands.
The movements change over the decades. Antiquorum catalogs an example made about 1923 as one of the first, with a movement signed European Watch & Clock Co., and Christie's records a LeCoultre movement in one of about 1950; Paris examples of the 1960s and 1970s carry movements signed Cartier. Single examples of 21 × 28 mm, 19 × 26 mm and 26 × 35 mm are also documented.
Dating the Tank Chinoise
Dated examples without a reference number run from about 1923 to the 1970s, the latest dated by Sotheby's to about 1975.
Catalog dates for the Paris examples are loose: Antiquorum dated two cases numbered four apart to the 1970s and to about 1960 in the same year.
Later Revivals
The Collection Privée Cartier Paris revived the Tank Chinoise as numbered references: the platinum 2685G and pink gold 2684 numbers, about 29 to 30.5 × 37 mm, hand-wound on the Cal. 437 MC. Analog/Shift dates the revival to 2004 and Phillips writes that it was made from 2005 to 2008; the dated examples we found run from 2004 to a warranty of December 2009, outside this archive's scope.
In 2022, for the design's centenary according to Sotheby's, Cartier reissued the Tank Chinoise in limited editions in its Privé collection, also outside this archive's scope.
Quintessential Reference
Tank Chinoise (1922) · Launched 1922; examples c. 1923–1970s
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- Reference
- Tank Chinoise (1922)
- No reference number, square case with end bars, manual wind
- Year
- Launched 1922; examples c. 1923–1970s
- Christie's, Sotheby's and Monaco Legend give 1922 for the launch; dated examples run from about 1923 to the 1970s
- Movement
- Manual-wind
- European Watch & Clock Co., LeCoultre or Cartier-signed movements, by example
- Case
- About 23 × 30 mm, 18k Yellow Gold
- Dial
- White or silvered
- Painted Roman numerals, radial on many examples; signed Paris on examples of the 1960s and 1970s
- Hands
- Blued steel
- Bâton, sword or épée shapes by example; gold hands on one example of the 1920s
- Strap
- Leather
- Cartier deployant clasps in yellow or pink gold; some examples on an 18k gold Cartier link bracelet
The original Tank Chinoise, which Christie's, Sotheby's and Monaco Legend date to 1922: a square 18k yellow gold Tank with a raised bar across each end, about 23 × 30 mm, hand-wound on movements signed European Watch & Clock Co., LeCoultre or Cartier by example. It carries no reference number, and dated examples run from about 1923 to the 1970s.
Other Known References
1 documented reference across 1 era
Art Deco & Interwar1920–19451 ref
| Reference | |
|---|---|
| Tank Chinoise (1922)18k Yellow Gold · Manual-wind |
What is a Cartier Tank Chinoise worth?
Choose your reference, set its condition, and see what it's likely to bring. Each estimate uses sales of that exact reference where there are enough of them.
Very good
Needs workFairVery goodExcellentExceptional
The typical public example: light wear, original-looking dial, runs well. This is the baseline.
Estimated market value
Two sales of the Tank Chinoise (1922): $22,400 at Antiquorum Geneva, May 2026, and $88,150 at Finarte, Jun 2024. Too few to estimate from.
What a dealer would likely payNot enough sales
Talk to us about this watchSee the 2 sales of the Tank Chinoise (1922), plus 2 that don’t count
| Date | Ref. | Where | Details | Counts as | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| May 2026 | Tank Chinoise (1922) | Antiquorum GenevaAuction | Lot 98, Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces, Geneva, 9 May 2026. Cataloged as "CARTIER, PARIS, TANK CHINOISE, 18K YELLOW GOLD", circa 1950's: 23 x 30 as cataloged (no units given), manual wind, caliber 21 with 17 jewels, case no. 034890/65098, movement no. 5074, leather strap with an 18k yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp; case, movement and dial graded very good, overhaul recommended. No reference printed. Antiquorum's "Sold:" figure; the lot page does not say whether it includes the buyer's premium. | This reference | CHF 17,500≈ $22,400 |
| Jun 2024 | Tank Chinoise (1922) | FinarteAuction | Lot 127, Fine Watches, Milan, 10 Jun 2024. Cataloged as "Cartier Tank Chinoise, 40s": 18k gold rectangular case n.32246-27688, 31 x 23 mm, hand-winding movement by European Watch Company, cream dial with painted Roman numerals, on an 18k gold Cartier brick-links bracelet with a rose gold deployant buckle stamped 32246-11133; the specialist's note calls it one of the best preserved vintage Tank Chinoise to appear at auction. No reference printed. Sold; "The price includes buyer's premium". | This reference | EUR 81,900≈ $88,150 |
| Oct 2021 | Tank Chinoise (1922) | Monaco Legend AuctionsAuction | Lot 17, 88 Cartier, Hotel Hermitage, Monaco, 16 Oct 2021. Cataloged as "Cartier France Special Tank Chinoise Rectangular-Shape Wristwatch in Yellow Gold, With White Roman Numbers Dial", 1950's: 21 x 28 mm, manual, white dial with black Roman numerals, blued steel hands, sapphire-set crown, leather strap with a Cartier yellow gold buckle. No reference or case number printed. Result (Premium), so the figure includes the buyer's premium. | Not countedolder than the five-year window | EUR 8,125≈ $9,450 |
| May 2014 | Tank Chinoise (1922) | Antiquorum GenevaAuction | Lot 229, Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces, Geneva, 11 May 2014. Cataloged as "Cartier, Tank Chinoise. Made circa 1940": 18K yellow gold, 23 x 23 mm, 6 mm thick, Cal. 9''' with 19 jewels, sapphire-set winding crown, white dial with painted black Roman numerals, blued steel Breguet hands. No reference or case number printed. Antiquorum's "Sold:" figure; the lot page does not say whether it includes the buyer's premium. | Not countedolder than the five-year window | CHF 9,375≈ $10,550 |
Sales from November 2023 to November 2026, or from the last five years for a reference with fewer than three in that time. Only sales that name a reference count toward its estimate; sales of the rest of its version are shown for comparison and never folded in. Auction prices include the buyer's premium unless a row says hammer; dealer prices are the price at sale. Currency figures are converted near the sale date. Results are from the auction houses' own lot pages. Monaco Legend and Finarte figures include the buyer's premium; Antiquorum's lot pages print a sold figure without saying whether it does. Sotheby's shows results only to signed-in users, so its sales of this watch are not included. The numbered revivals, in the Collection Privée Cartier Paris from about 2004 and the Privé collection from 2022, are outside this archive's scope and are not counted. The condition and option adjustments, the expected bid (75 to 85% of market value) and the auction range (62 to 72%) are working assumptions, to be replaced by Archiva's own bids as they come in. A sale far above or below the other sales of its reference is listed but not counted, so one unusual result can't pull the estimate. An estimate from public results, not an appraisal.
Collector's Corner
What every buyer, inheritor, and first-time collector should know.
Buying Guide
02CASE
Case Back Hallmarks
Varies by era
Genuine Cartier cases bear specific hallmarks including the Cartier name, reference number, serial number, and precious metal assay marks. Placement and style varies by era, with earlier pieces showing different hallmark configurations than modern examples.
03MOVEMENT
Movement Sourcing
Varies by era and model
Cartier sourced movements from various Swiss manufacturers throughout history, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, Frédéric Piguet, ETA, and in-house production. Knowing the correct caliber for a specific reference is essential for identifying the watch and establishing provenance.
04CROWN
Crown Sapphire Cabochon
A Cartier hallmark since the early 20th century
The blue sapphire (or spinel on less precious models) cabochon crown is a Cartier signature. Original crowns show consistent color saturation and are set flush with the crown body. Replacements often show misalignment or incorrect stone dimensions that reveal themselves under magnification.
05BRACELET
Bracelet and Clasp Markings
Check the clasp first
Cartier bracelets carry their own reference markings and the deployment clasp should bear the Cartier name and logo. Aftermarket bracelets are extremely common on vintage pieces, so checking that the clasp is original and that reference numbers match is crucial to the overall picture.
06DIAL
Dial Aging and Patina
Patina tells the story
Vintage Cartier dials develop characteristic aging: cream dials warm to ivory, lacquer dials may develop fine crazing, and applied indices can show legible wear patterns. Understanding acceptable versus concerning dial aging is key to valuing a vintage piece accurately.
Questions collectors ask
Direct answers about the Cartier Tank Chinoise, drawn from the reference records below.
What is a Cartier Tank Chinoise worth?
- Public auction and dealer results from November 2023 to November 2026 put the 1920s–1970s gold at $38,850 to $71,700, median $55,250 across 2 sales. Condition, a recent Cartier service, and the original box and papers move an individual watch within or beyond these ranges, and the calculator on this page adjusts for each.
How much will a dealer pay for a Tank Chinoise?
- Dealers buying to resell usually bid below public market value, because they carry the cost and risk of the resale. At this level the right route depends on the specific watch, so Archiva talks each sale through with the owner personally first.
What is the Cartier Tank Chinoise?
- A square Tank with a raised bar across each end of the case, which Christie's, Sotheby's and Monaco Legend date to 1922. The original was made without a reference number, in 18k yellow gold and hand-wound, with dated examples from about 1923 to the 1970s, most about 23 mm wide. Cartier later revived it as numbered references in the Collection Privée Cartier Paris and the Privé collection.
Why is it called the Chinoise?
- For the bars across its ends. Monaco Legend writes that the design took its inspiration from the portals of Chinese temples, and Sotheby's that the bars mirror the entry gates of Asian temples. Christie's describes the raised overlapping bars as an alteration from the classical Tank.
What sizes was the vintage Tank Chinoise made in?
- Most examples are about 23 mm wide: catalogs give 23 × 30 mm or 24 × 31 mm, and some 23 × 23 mm. Single examples of 21 × 28 mm from the 1950s, 19 × 26 mm from the 1960s and 26 × 35 mm from the 1960s are also documented.
Is the vintage Tank Chinoise quartz or mechanical?
- Mechanical and hand-wound in every record we found, on movements signed European Watch & Clock Co. on examples of the 1920s to 1940s, LeCoultre on one of about 1950 and Cartier on Paris examples of the 1960s and 1970s. Sotheby's has cataloged a quartz Tank Chinoise in yellow gold and enamel of about 1995, a later watch.
What is the Collection Privée Tank Chinoise?
- A numbered revival in the Collection Privée Cartier Paris: the platinum Ref. 2685G and pink gold 2684 numbers, about 29 to 30.5 × 37 mm, hand-wound on the Cal. 437 MC. Analog/Shift dates the revival to 2004 and Phillips gives production from 2005 to 2008; the dated examples we found run from 2004 to a warranty of 2009, outside this archive's scope.
Next Steps
INHERITOR
I inherited this watch
Check the case back and measure the case. Most original Tank Chinoise are about 23 mm wide and carry Cartier case numbers rather than a reference number; a number such as 2685G or 2684 marks a later Collection Privée watch.
START HERE →BUYERI'm buying this watch
Confirm the hand-wound movement, the case numbers and the clasp, and look closely at the dial and the end bars. Know what to check.
CHECK BEFORE YOU BUY →SELLERI'm selling this watch
Dial, case and movement condition and an original Cartier clasp or bracelet shape what a Tank Chinoise brings. See what comparable examples have sold for.
PRICE MY WATCH →
