01DIAL
The Secret Signature
Introduced 1977
A microscopic 'CARTIER' hidden within the Roman numerals — present on every genuine post-1977 dial.
Cartier
Cristallor
A faceted gold rectangle with a three-tiered stepped bezel, introduced in the 1973 Louis Cartier Collection and named for the jewel-like effect of its case.
History
A Named Shape for 1973
The Cristallor was introduced with the Louis Cartier Collection, the group of historical shapes Cartier released under evocative names in 1973. Craft + Tailored writes that it arrived alongside the Gondole, the Ellipse and the Vendôme. Like the Vendôme and the Fabergé of the same collection, it was made in 18k gold, with a hand-wound movement and a dial signed Paris.
The Case That Named It
The Cristallor is defined by its case. A rectangle with canted corners gives it an octagonal outline, the bezel steps down to the dial in three tiers, and the lugs are hidden beneath the case. Sotheby's writes that the faceted, multi-angled case creates a jewel-like effect, and that this is what gives the Cristallor its name.
Inside the steps sits a white lacquer dial with black Roman numerals, a minute track and blued steel sword hands, signed Paris. The beaded crown is set with a blue cabochon, and the back is held by four screws.
Two Sizes
The Ref. 78096, which auction houses call the Cristallor Jumbo, measures 28 × 35 mm, stands about 6 mm thick and runs on the hand-wound Cartier Cal. 78-1 with 17 jewels. A smaller Cristallor, the Ref. 78095, measures 24 × 30 mm; Monaco Legend has sold one, and dealers have offered the size as the Cristallor Junior.
Gold, Dials and Rarity
Most Cristallors are 18k yellow gold, and white gold is very rare. Phillips, which calls a Paris-signed dial correct for the model, found no more than a handful of white gold examples on the market. One yellow gold example with a dial signed SWISS has also been documented.
Production was small. Sotheby's describes the Cristallor as produced in notably small quantities, and production is believed to have ended by the early 1980s. One auction house estimates from serial numbers that fewer than 1,000 were made.
The Cristallor Today
Monaco Legend counts the Cristallor among Cartier's rarest shaped designs. Because so much of its character lies in the stepped case, condition matters more than usual: crisp tiers, an original Paris dial and a case number that begins with the reference tell most of the story of an example.
Quintessential Reference
Ref. 78096 · c. 1973–early 1980s
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- Reference
- 78096
- Jumbo (large model), 18k gold, manual wind
- Year
- c. 1973–early 1980s
- Craft + Tailored dates the launch to the 1973 Louis Cartier Collection and Monaco Legend to the early 1970s; Sotheby's and Aguttes catalog examples circa 1970 and Phillips circa 1975; production is believed to have ended by the early 1980s
- Movement
- Manual-wind
- Cartier Cal. 78-1, 17 jewels; Monaco Legend catalogs one example as cal. 2512
- Case
- 28 × 35 mm, 18k Yellow Gold or 18k White Gold
- Dial
- White
- Lacquered, black Roman numerals and minute track, signed Paris; one dial signed SWISS is documented
- Hands
- Blued steel
- Sword-shaped
- Crystal
- Mineral glass
- Stated by Amsterdam Watch Company; the auction catalogs consulted do not give the type
- Strap
- Leather
- 18k gold Cartier deployant clasp or tang buckle in the case metal
The Ref. 78096 is the Cristallor Jumbo: a 28 × 35 mm 18k gold case with a three-tiered stepped bezel and hidden lugs, a white Paris dial with black Roman numerals and blued sword hands, and the hand-wound Cartier Cal. 78-1. It is the Cristallor seen most often at auction, in yellow gold and, very rarely, white gold.
Other Known References
1 documented reference across 1 era
Reunion & Democratization1964–19921 ref
| Reference | |
|---|---|
| Ref. 7809618k Yellow Gold or 18k White Gold · Manual-wind |
Collector's Corner
What every buyer, inheritor, and first-time collector should know.
Buying Guide
02CASE
Case Back Hallmarks
Varies by era
Genuine Cartier cases bear specific hallmarks including the Cartier name, reference number, serial number, and precious metal assay marks. Placement and style varies by era, with earlier pieces showing different hallmark configurations than modern examples.
03MOVEMENT
Movement Sourcing
Varies by era and model
Cartier sourced movements from various Swiss manufacturers throughout history, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, Frédéric Piguet, ETA, and in-house production. Knowing the correct caliber for a specific reference is essential for identifying the watch and establishing provenance.
04CROWN
Crown Sapphire Cabochon
A Cartier hallmark since the early 20th century
The blue sapphire (or spinel on less precious models) cabochon crown is a Cartier signature. Original crowns show consistent color saturation and are set flush with the crown body. Replacements often show misalignment or incorrect stone dimensions that reveal themselves under magnification.
05BRACELET
Bracelet and Clasp Markings
Check the clasp first
Cartier bracelets carry their own reference markings and the deployment clasp should bear the Cartier name and logo. Aftermarket bracelets are extremely common on vintage pieces, so verifying clasp authenticity and matching reference numbers is crucial to the overall picture.
06DIAL
Dial Aging and Patina
Patina tells the story
Vintage Cartier dials develop characteristic aging—cream dials warm to ivory, lacquer dials may develop fine crazing, and applied indices can show legible wear patterns. Understanding acceptable versus concerning dial aging is key to valuing a vintage piece authentically.
Questions collectors ask
Direct answers about the Cartier Cristallor, drawn from the reference records below.
What is the Cartier Cristallor?
- A Cartier wristwatch from the 1973 Louis Cartier Collection with a faceted 18k gold case: a rectangle with canted corners, a bezel that steps down to the dial in three tiers, and hidden lugs. It has a white Paris dial with black Roman numerals, blued sword hands and a hand-wound movement, and it was made until about the early 1980s.
Why is it called the Cristallor?
- Sotheby's writes that the faceted, multi-angled case creates a jewel-like effect, and that this aesthetic gives the Cristallor its name.
What sizes was the Cristallor made in?
- Two references are documented. The Ref. 78096, cataloged as the Cristallor Jumbo by Sotheby's and Monaco Legend, measures 28 × 35 mm. The Ref. 78095 measures 24 × 30 mm; Monaco Legend has sold one as a Cristallor, and Analog/Shift has sold the size as the Cristallor Junior.
How rare is the Cristallor?
- Rare. Sotheby's describes it as produced in notably small quantities, Loupe This estimates from serial numbers that fewer than 1,000 were made, and Phillips found no more than a handful of white gold examples on the market.
What should I check before buying a Cristallor?
- Crisp, unpolished steps on the bezel; a case number that begins with the reference; a hand-wound movement signed Cartier; a white lacquer dial signed Paris without signs of refinishing; and an 18k gold Cartier clasp or buckle in the case metal. A Cartier warranty, box or hang tag, which have survived with some examples, adds to the watch's story.
Next Steps
INHERITOR
I inherited this watch
Measure the case and read the number on the back: the 78096 is the 28 × 35 mm Jumbo, the 78095 the smaller 24 × 30 mm size. Then check the movement and dial.
START HERE →BUYERI'm buying this watch
Cristallors were made in small numbers and the stepped case shows every polish. Know what an original case, dial and movement look like before you commit.
CHECK BEFORE YOU BUY →SELLERI'm selling this watch
Case condition, metal and the dial drive interest in a Cristallor, and white gold is very rare. A Cartier warranty, box or hang tag adds to the story.
PRICE MY WATCH →
