The Secret Signature
Introduced 1977
A microscopic 'CARTIER' hidden within the Roman numerals — present on every genuine post-1977 dial.
Cartier
The Tank that turns its face away: a case that swings inside its frame to protect the dial, from 1932 and revived in steel in the 1990s.
Cartier introduced the Tank Basculante in 1932, a year after Jaeger-LeCoultre's Reverso, to solve the same problem: how to protect a wristwatch's crystal during sport. Where the Reverso slid and turned its case in a carriage, the Basculante held the watch head between two pivots inside a fixed frame. A press at one end swung the case through the frame to lie face down against the wrist, or stopped it halfway to stand as a small table clock. The name comes from basculer, to tilt or swing. Christie's names polo among the pursuits it was made for, and Christie's also notes that cases for both watches came from Spécialités Horlogères SA, a LeCoultre affiliate.
Vintage Basculantes were made in small numbers. The examples that surface at auction are typically 18k gold, some with Paris dials and French cases bearing Edmond Jaeger's EJ hallmark, others signed by the European Watch and Clock Co. A 1960s piece sold at Monaco Legend for CHF 90,000, which shows how scarce the originals are.
Cartier brought the Basculante back in the 1990s, first within the Collection Privée Cartier Paris and later as a collection of its own. The steel, hand-wound Ref. 2390 became its mainstay, on the Cal. 060 MC derived from the Frédéric Piguet 610, alongside the smaller steel quartz Ref. 2386. Gold editions followed: the 1625 of 1997, 150 pieces for the maison's 150th anniversary, and the 2391, an 18k Millennium edition of 365. The 2390 itself carried a Millennium edition with "MM" at XII, a Paris Boutique edition and, in 2001, an edition of 26 for the centenary of Australian Federation.
The steel 2390 has become one of the clearest examples of the market's turn toward late twentieth-century Cartier. Examples sold for around $2,000 to $3,500 in 2012 and 2013; in May 2026 two sold for about $8,275 and $11,261. Analog/Shift reports that Cartier discontinued the collection within the last decade, so the 1990s and 2000s references are now the supply.
Ref. 2390 · c. 1990s–2005
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The steel, hand-wound Ref. 2390 is the Basculante most owners hold: a 25 x 38.5 mm case that pivots inside its cradle, a guilloché dial with Roman numerals and the hidden signature, and the Cartier Cal. 060 MC on a Frédéric Piguet 610 base. Cartier revived the 1932 design with it in the 1990s, and it carried the Millennium, Paris Boutique and Australian Federation editions.
1 documented reference across 1 era
| Reference | |
|---|---|
| Ref. 2390 |
What every buyer, inheritor, and first-time collector should know.
Introduced 1977
A microscopic 'CARTIER' hidden within the Roman numerals — present on every genuine post-1977 dial.
Varies by era
Genuine Cartier cases bear specific hallmarks including the Cartier name, reference number, serial number, and precious metal assay marks. Placement and style varies by era, with earlier pieces showing different hallmark configurations than modern examples.
Varies by era and model
Cartier sourced movements from various Swiss manufacturers throughout history, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, Frédéric Piguet, ETA, and in-house production. Knowing the correct caliber for a specific reference is essential for identifying the watch and establishing provenance.
A Cartier hallmark since the early 20th century
The blue sapphire (or spinel on less precious models) cabochon crown is a Cartier signature. Original crowns show consistent color saturation and are set flush with the crown body. Replacements often show misalignment or incorrect stone dimensions that reveal themselves under magnification.
Check the clasp first
Cartier bracelets carry their own reference markings and the deployment clasp should bear the Cartier name and logo. Aftermarket bracelets are extremely common on vintage pieces, so verifying clasp authenticity and matching reference numbers is crucial to the overall picture.
Patina tells the story
Vintage Cartier dials develop characteristic aging—cream dials warm to ivory, lacquer dials may develop fine crazing, and applied indices can show legible wear patterns. Understanding acceptable versus concerning dial aging is key to valuing a vintage piece authentically.
Direct answers about the Cartier Tank Basculante, drawn from the reference records below.
Start with the case back: the reference tells you whether you have the steel 2390, the quartz 2386 or a gold edition.
START HERE →BUYERThe pivot mechanism is the first thing to check, then the dial and the movement against the reference.
CHECK BEFORE YOU BUY →SELLERSteel Basculantes have climbed sharply in recent years. See what recent public results suggest yours is worth.
PRICE MY WATCH →