How much will a dealer pay for a Santos Dumont?

Dealers buying to resell usually bid about 75 to 85% of public market value, because they carry the cost and risk of the resale. For a ultra-thin 18k yellow gold manual wind Santos Dumont at the recent median of $8,950, that suggests bids of roughly $6,700 to $7,600. Archiva is opening a panel of specialist dealers who bid blind, with the seller keeping the whole winning bid.

What is the difference between a Santos Dumont and a Santos?

Both descend from the watch Louis Cartier made for Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904. The Santos Dumont references on Archiva are the slim dress versions: hand-wound, on leather straps, in 18k yellow gold, in two golds (the Deux Ors 78225 and 96061) or, for the Collection Privée 1575 and a limited run of the 96054, platinum. The Santos model page covers the other branch.

How do I tell which Santos Dumont reference I have?

Read the case back, then measure. The Ref. 78097 is 25 × 36 mm on the Cartier Cal. 78-1, and the Ref. 78225 of the 1970s is about the same size in 18k white gold with a yellow gold bezel, on an ETA 2512 base. The Ref. 96054 is the 27 × 36 mm ultra-thin model on the Frédéric Piguet Cal. 21, and the 821054 of the 1990s shares that size and movement with a silver guilloché dial. The Ref. 96061 of about 1990 is the large ultra-thin model in yellow gold with a white gold bezel, also on the Cal. 21. The small models on the Cal. 21 are the 96053, about 23 × 32 mm, and the 96062, about 23 mm wide. The Ref. 1575 is the platinum Collection Privée Cartier Paris model at 27 × 36 mm on the Cal. 021MC, and its yellow gold counterpart is the Ref. 1576, also 27 × 36 mm, on the Cal. 21, which Antiquorum dates to the 1990s.

Was the Santos Dumont really the first wristwatch?

Cartier calls it one of the first wristwatches. Louis Cartier made it in 1904 for his friend the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to tell the time while flying, and the model became commercially available in 1911. The references collectors trade today date from the 1970s onward.

What does a Paris dial mean on a Santos Dumont?

A dial signed CARTIER PARIS. It appears on some 78097s of the 1970s and 1980s, on many 96054s and on some small 96053s and 96062s. Swiss-signed dials are also documented, including on a 96053 of about 1985, so read the dial together with the case and papers.

What should I check before buying a Santos Dumont?

The case back for the reference; all eight bezel screws, original and undamaged; a case that keeps the contrast between the polished bezel and the brushed band; the dial signature; and the right movement for the reference: the Cal. 78-1 for the 78097, the Cal. 21 for the 96054, 96053, 96062, 821054 and 1576, and the Cal. 021MC for the 1575. Cartier warranty papers help date a watch.

Cartier

Santos Dumont

The slim dress version of the Santos, the watch Louis Cartier made in 1904 for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont.

What's it worth?View references Collector's Corner

History

Origins

In 1904, Louis Cartier made a watch for his friend the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to tell the time while flying, and it was designed to be worn on the wrist. The model became commercially available in 1911, and Cartier describes it as one of the first wristwatches.

The Vintage References

The Santos Dumont references collectors trade today begin in the 1970s. The Ref. 78097, a 25 × 36 mm case in 18k yellow gold, runs on the hand-wound Cartier Cal. 78-1 and is dated from about 1970 into the 1980s. Sotheby's notes that Yves Saint Laurent wore one, photographed by Horst P. Horst for Vogue in 1971. The Ref. 78225, which dealers call Deux Ors, is a 25–26 × 36 mm case in 18k white gold with an 18k yellow gold bezel and a Paris dial, hand-wound on an ETA 2512 base; Bachmann & Scher dates one to 1977.

The ultra-thin Ref. 96054, also 18k yellow gold, measures 27 × 36 mm and runs on the Frédéric Piguet Cal. 21; it is dated from about 1974 to 1997, and Sotheby's has sold a platinum example of about 1980 with burgundy numerals. Its small siblings on the same movement are the Ref. 96053 of about 1984 to 1990, at about 23 × 32 mm, and the Ref. 96062, about 23 mm wide, which dealers date to the 1980s and about 1990. The Ref. 96061, also sold as Deux Ors, is a 26–27 × 36 mm ultra-thin case in 18k yellow gold with an 18k white gold bezel on the Cal. 21, dated by Sotheby's to circa 1990.

In the 1990s the large ultra-thin model continued as the Ref. 821054, the same 27 × 36 mm size and Cal. 21 with a silver guilloché dial. The Collection Privée Cartier Paris line also revisited the Santos Dumont in platinum as the Ref. 1575, 27 × 36 mm on the Cal. 021MC, Cartier's version of the Piguet Cal. 21, with a yellow gold counterpart, the Ref. 1576, on the Cal. 21, which Antiquorum dates to the 1990s. A platinum edition of 90 with a salmon dial, the 1575-1 of 1994, is tied by Phillips and Christie's to the Santos Dumont's 90th anniversary.

Quintessential Reference

Ref. 78097 · c. 1970s–1980s

Photos by @voys_time

Reference: 78097; Yellow gold, manual-wind, Paris dial
Year: c. 1970s–1980s; Sotheby's dates Yves Saint Laurent's example to circa 1970; Bukowskis dates one to about 1985 and Antiquorum one to the 1980s, and Antiquorum another, with a service dial, to the 1990s
Movement: Manual-wind; Cartier Cal. 78-1, 17 jewels
Case: 25 × 36 mm, 18k Yellow Gold
Dial: White; Black Roman numerals, railroad minute track; signed Paris on some examples
Hands: Blued steel; Sword-shaped
Crystal: Mineral glass; Catalogs differ: European Watch Co. lists a glass crystal, Bukowskis a sapphire crystal
Strap: Leather; Leather strap with an 18k yellow gold Cartier pin buckle or deployant clasp

The Santos Dumont of the 1970s and 1980s in 18k yellow gold: a 25 × 36 mm case on a leather strap, a white dial signed Paris on some examples, and the hand-wound Cartier Cal. 78-1. Yves Saint Laurent wore one, photographed on his wrist by Horst P. Horst for Vogue in 1971.

Other Known References

9 documented references across 2 eras

Reunion & Democratization1964–1992

6 refs

Reference	Case Material	Movement	Case Size	Dial	Crystal
Ref. 7809718k Yellow Gold · Manual-wind	18k Yellow Gold	Manual-wind	25 × 36 mm	White	Mineral glass
Ref. 7822518k white gold with 18k yellow gold bezel · Manual-wind	18k white gold with 18k yellow gold bezel	Manual-wind	25–26 × 36 mm	White	Not confirmed
Ref. 9605318k Yellow Gold · Manual	18k Yellow Gold	Manual	23 × 32 mm	White	Not confirmed
Ref. 9605418k Yellow Gold · Manual-wind	18k Yellow Gold	Manual-wind	27 × 36 mm	White	Mineral
Ref. 9606118k yellow gold with 18k white gold bezel · Manual-wind	18k yellow gold with 18k white gold bezel	Manual-wind	26–27 × 36 mm	White	Not confirmed
Ref. 9606218k Yellow Gold · Manual	18k Yellow Gold	Manual	23 mm	White	Not confirmed

Modern Manufacture1993–2001

3 refs

Reference	Case Material	Movement	Case Size	Dial	Crystal
Ref. 1575Platinum (950) · Manual-wind	Platinum (950)	Manual-wind	27 × 36 mm	Silver guilloché	Sapphire
Ref. 157618k Yellow Gold · Manual-wind	18k Yellow Gold	Manual-wind	27 × 36 mm	Silver guilloché	Sapphire
Ref. 82105418k Yellow Gold · Manual	18k Yellow Gold	Manual	27 × 36 mm	Silver guilloché	Not confirmed

What is a Cartier Santos Dumont worth?

Choose your reference, set its condition, and see what it's likely to bring. Each estimate uses sales of that exact reference where there are enough of them.

From December 2023 to November 2024, 4 counted sales of Ref. 1575 ran from $22,500 to $48,950, with a middle price of $33,100. The most recent was $48,950 at Phillips Hong Kong in November 2024.

See all 11 sales of Ref. 1575: 4 counted, 7 not

Date	Ref.	Where	Details	Counts as	Price
Nov 2024	1575-1	Phillips Hong KongAuction	TOKI sale. Lot 91, 90th anniversary, no. 42/90, salmon dial. Full set: Odakyu 1994 guarantee, boxes. Very well preserved.	This reference	HK$381,000≈ $48,950
Sep 2024	1575B	Phillips GenevaAuction	Online sale. Lot 27, c.2000, case 0063MG, ivory guilloché dial, certificate, box, extra strap. Same watch sold Jun 2021 for HK$189,000.	This reference	CHF 19,050≈ $22,500
Jun 2024	1575	Antiquorum Hong KongAuction	Lot 233, limited edition 46/50, silver dial with Roman numerals, dial graded as new, box, certificate, booklet.	This reference	HK$200,000≈ $25,600
Dec 2023	1575-1	Christie's Geneva (via Collector Square)Auction	Online sale. Lot 259, no. 49/90, salmon dial, no box or papers. Index does not state the currency; CHF assumed. Est. 12-18k.	This reference	CHF 35,280≈ $40,550
Jun 2021	1575B	Phillips Hong KongAuction	Case 0063MG (resold Sep 2024), certificate and box.	Not countedolder than the five-year window	HK$189,000≈ $24,350
May 2020	1575	Sotheby's New York (via Collector Square)Auction	Silvered guilloché dial.	Not countedolder than the five-year window	$10,000
Jul 2018	1575	Artcurial Monaco (via Collector Square)Auction	Silver dial, box and certificate.	Not countedolder than the five-year window	EUR 7,150≈ $10,000
May 2018	1575-1	Sotheby's Geneva (via Collector Square)Auction	Salmon dial, 28/90.	Not countedolder than the five-year window	CHF 12,500≈ $14,300
Dec 2017	1575B	Bonhams New York (via Collector Square)Auction	Sunburst guilloché dial.	Not countedolder than the five-year window	$6,250
Nov 2017	1575-1	Sotheby's Geneva (via Collector Square)Auction	Salmon dial, 3/90.	Not countedolder than the five-year window	CHF 8,750≈ $10,000
Oct 2017	1575-1	Christie's (via Collector Square)Auction	Online sale. Salmon dial, 90th anniversary.	Not countedolder than the five-year window	$7,500

Sales from November 2023 to November 2026, or from the last five years for a reference with fewer than three in that time. Only sales that name a reference count toward its estimate; sales of the rest of its version are shown for comparison and never folded in. Auction prices include the buyer's premium unless a row says hammer; dealer prices are the price at sale. Currency figures are converted near the sale date. Hammer prices are marked and exclude the buyer's premium. Rows via Collector Square come from its public results index and should be confirmed at the auction house. Results that some houses show only to signed-in visitors are read from the house's own page with an Archiva account. The platinum variant mixes the 90th-anniversary salmon dial, which brings the most, with the standard silver dial. The condition and option adjustments, the expected bid (75 to 85% of market value) and the auction range (62 to 72%) are working assumptions, to be replaced by Archiva's own bids as they come in. A sale far above or below the other sales of its reference is listed but not counted, so one unusual result can't pull the estimate. An estimate from public results, not an appraisal.

Collector's Corner

What every buyer, inheritor, and first-time collector should know.

Buying Guide

01DIAL

The Secret Signature

Introduced 1977

A microscopic 'CARTIER' hidden within the Roman numerals, present on every genuine post-1977 dial.

02CASE

Case Back Hallmarks

Varies by origin and era

A Cartier case carries the Cartier signature, a reference and serial number on later pieces, and small struck marks for the metal and the case maker. Which marks appear depends on where the case was made: an eagle's head on Paris gold, JC and a date letter on London cases, the Helvetia head on Swiss 18k before 1995. The hallmarks guide shows what each one means.

03MOVEMENT

Movement Sourcing

Varies by era and model

Cartier sourced movements from various Swiss manufacturers throughout history, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, Frédéric Piguet, ETA, and in-house production. Knowing the correct caliber for a specific reference is essential for identifying the watch and establishing provenance.

04CROWN

Crown Sapphire Cabochon

A Cartier hallmark since the early 20th century

The blue sapphire (or spinel on less precious models) cabochon crown is a Cartier signature. Original crowns show consistent color saturation and are set flush with the crown body. Replacements often show misalignment or incorrect stone dimensions that reveal themselves under magnification.

05BRACELET

Bracelet and Clasp Markings

Check the clasp first

Cartier bracelets carry their own reference markings and the deployment clasp should bear the Cartier name and logo. Aftermarket bracelets are extremely common on vintage pieces, so checking that the clasp is original and that reference numbers match is crucial to the overall picture.

06DIAL

Dial Aging and Patina

Patina tells the story

Vintage Cartier dials develop characteristic aging: cream dials warm to ivory, lacquer dials may develop fine crazing, and applied indices can show legible wear patterns. Understanding acceptable versus concerning dial aging is key to valuing a vintage piece accurately.

Questions collectors ask

Direct answers about the Cartier Santos Dumont, drawn from the reference records below.

What is a Cartier Santos Dumont worth?: Public auction and dealer results from November 2023 to November 2026 put the 25 x 36 mm 18k yellow gold manual wind (Ref. 78097) at $8,500 to $9,900, median $9,200 across 2 sales; the ultra-thin 18k yellow gold manual wind (Ref. 96054) at $8,650 to $9,200, median $8,950 across 4 sales; the collection privée platinum manual wind (Ref. 1575-1, 1575) at $24,800 to $42,650, median $33,100 across 4 sales; the small 18k yellow gold manual wind (Ref. 96053, 7809) at $5,850 to $10,300, median $8,100 across 4 sales; the collection privée 18k yellow gold (Ref. 1576, 1576B) at $11,000 to $11,300, median $11,150 across 2 sales; and the 1990s 18k gold quartz (Ref. 8107) at one public sale at $4,900. Condition, a recent Cartier service, and the original box and papers move an individual watch within or beyond these ranges, and the calculator on this page adjusts for each.
How much will a dealer pay for a Santos Dumont?: Dealers buying to resell usually bid about 75 to 85% of public market value, because they carry the cost and risk of the resale. For a ultra-thin 18k yellow gold manual wind Santos Dumont at the recent median of $8,950, that suggests bids of roughly $6,700 to $7,600. Archiva is opening a panel of specialist dealers who bid blind, with the seller keeping the whole winning bid.
What is the difference between a Santos Dumont and a Santos?: Both descend from the watch Louis Cartier made for Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904. The Santos Dumont references on Archiva are the slim dress versions: hand-wound, on leather straps, in 18k yellow gold, in two golds (the Deux Ors 78225 and 96061) or, for the Collection Privée 1575 and a limited run of the 96054, platinum. The Santos model page covers the other branch.
How do I tell which Santos Dumont reference I have?: Read the case back, then measure. The Ref. 78097 is 25 × 36 mm on the Cartier Cal. 78-1, and the Ref. 78225 of the 1970s is about the same size in 18k white gold with a yellow gold bezel, on an ETA 2512 base. The Ref. 96054 is the 27 × 36 mm ultra-thin model on the Frédéric Piguet Cal. 21, and the 821054 of the 1990s shares that size and movement with a silver guilloché dial. The Ref. 96061 of about 1990 is the large ultra-thin model in yellow gold with a white gold bezel, also on the Cal. 21. The small models on the Cal. 21 are the 96053, about 23 × 32 mm, and the 96062, about 23 mm wide. The Ref. 1575 is the platinum Collection Privée Cartier Paris model at 27 × 36 mm on the Cal. 021MC, and its yellow gold counterpart is the Ref. 1576, also 27 × 36 mm, on the Cal. 21, which Antiquorum dates to the 1990s.
Was the Santos Dumont really the first wristwatch?: Cartier calls it one of the first wristwatches. Louis Cartier made it in 1904 for his friend the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to tell the time while flying, and the model became commercially available in 1911. The references collectors trade today date from the 1970s onward.
What does a Paris dial mean on a Santos Dumont?: A dial signed CARTIER PARIS. It appears on some 78097s of the 1970s and 1980s, on many 96054s and on some small 96053s and 96062s. Swiss-signed dials are also documented, including on a 96053 of about 1985, so read the dial together with the case and papers.
What should I check before buying a Santos Dumont?: The case back for the reference; all eight bezel screws, original and undamaged; a case that keeps the contrast between the polished bezel and the brushed band; the dial signature; and the right movement for the reference: the Cal. 78-1 for the 78097, the Cal. 21 for the 96054, 96053, 96062, 821054 and 1576, and the Cal. 021MC for the 1575. Cartier warranty papers help date a watch.

Next Steps

INHERITOR