The Secret Signature
Introduced 1977
A microscopic 'CARTIER' hidden within the Roman numerals, present on every genuine post-1977 dial.
Cartier's Tank on an integrated bracelet, introduced in 1996 in steel, steel and gold, and 18k yellow gold.
Freeman's dates the introduction of the large automatic Tank Française to 1996, and dealers and auction houses date examples from 1997. It is a Tank built on an integrated bracelet. Archiva documents it in three sizes: small, about 20 × 25 mm and quartz; midsize, 25 × 30 mm and quartz; and large, 28 × 32 mm and automatic, with a date at 6 o'clock. It also documents a 28 × 36 mm quartz chronograph with a date.
Catalogs describe a two-body case, polished and brushed, with an octagonal winding crown set with a cabochon, a sapphire crystal and a case back held by four screws. The integrated bracelet comes in steel, in steel and 18k yellow gold, in 18k yellow gold and in 18k white gold.
On the large model the dial is silvered guilloché, with painted black Roman numerals and a date aperture at 6 o'clock. Antiquorum and Noonans record the secret Cartier signature in the VII on the large model; on the small gold 1820, Antiquorum records it at 10 o'clock.
Archiva's scope covers watches 25 years old or older, so the earliest Tank Française production qualifies. The references documented here:
The steel 2302 and the W51002Q3 match in size, metal and movement. Auction houses catalog the large steel automatic by its case reference and dealers by its W-number, and Archiva has not yet found an auction or dealer source that prints both numbers on one watch. For the small steel model it has: a WannaBuyAWatch listing records the same watch as 2384 and W51008Q3. Since 2384 is also the case reference of the small model in steel and 18k gold, Archiva documents both versions on one page under 2384.
Ref. W51002Q3 · c. 1997–2012
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The Ref. W51002Q3 is the large stainless steel automatic: a 28 × 32 mm case on the integrated steel bracelet, with the Cartier Cal. 120 and a date at 6 o'clock. Dealers date examples from 1997 to 2012.
11 documented references across 1 era
| Reference | |
|---|---|
| Ref. 182018k Yellow Gold · Quartz | |
| Ref. 182118k Yellow Gold · Quartz | |
| Ref. 183018k Yellow Gold · Quartz | |
| Ref. 184018k Yellow Gold · Automatic | |
| Ref. 2301Stainless steel · Quartz | |
| Ref. 2302Stainless steel, or steel with 18k yellow gold · Automatic | |
| Ref. 2303Stainless steel · Quartz | |
| Ref. 236618k White Gold · Automatic | |
| Ref. 2384Stainless steel, or stainless steel and 18k yellow gold · Quartz | |
| Ref. 246618k Yellow Gold · Quartz | |
| Ref. W51002Q3Stainless steel · Automatic |
Choose your reference, set its condition, and see what it's likely to bring. Each estimate uses sales of that exact reference where there are enough of them.
The typical public example: light wear, original-looking dial, runs well. This is the baseline.
Median of 9 sales of Ref. 2302, Nov 2023 to Nov 2026.
Market value is what watches like this sell for publicly, fees included. A dealer buying to resell pays less, because they carry the cost and risk of the resale.
From December 2023 to October 2026, 9 counted sales of Ref. 2302 ran from $1,750 to $4,500, with a middle price of $2,850. The most recent was $1,750 at Mroczek Brothers in October 2026.
| Date | Ref. | Where | Details | Counts as | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Oct 2026 | 2302 | Grailzee (via EveryWatch)Auction | White dial, 28 mm, steel, automatic, very good condition, box, no papers. Sold 16-21 Oct 2026. EveryWatch does not state whether the price includes the premium. | This reference | $3,255 |
| Oct 2026 | 2302 | Bonhams (via EveryWatch)Auction | Silver dial, 28 mm, steel, automatic (cal. 120), no box or papers. Online sale ended 8 Oct 2026. EveryWatch does not state whether the price includes the premium. | This reference | $3,328 |
| Oct 2026 | 2302 | Mroczek Brothers (via EveryWatch)Auction | White dial, 28 mm, steel, automatic, working order, on leather strap, no box or papers. Sold 1 Oct 2026. EveryWatch does not state whether the price includes the premium. | This reference | $1,750 |
| Apr 2026 | 2302 | Freeman's HindmanAuction | Watches, sale 6483, lot 40, April 2026. Steel, approx. 28 x 32 mm, automatic, date, serial 84211OCD, 2000s, bracelet, pouch. Result inclusive of buyer's premium. Result read by Kyle from the house's signed-in result page, 5 Nov 2026. | This reference | $4,480 |
| Jun 2025 | 2302 | Sotheby'sAuction | Fine Watches, lot 414, closed 17 Jun 2025, no reserve. Steel, 32 x 28 mm, cal. 120 automatic 20 jewels, date, case 85'001'7CD, c.2000, bracelet, no box or papers. Result includes premium. Result read by Kyle from the house's signed-in result page, 5 Nov 2026. | This reference | USD 2,540 |
| Aug 2024 | 2302 | Bonhams Hong Kong (via Collector Square)Auction | c. 2010, bracelet, date. | This reference | HK$17,920≈ $2,300 |
| May 2024 | 2302 | Bonhams (via Collector Square)Auction | Online sale. Steel automatic with date, bracelet. | This reference | $3,136 |
| Feb 2024 | 2302 | Bonhams Paris (via Collector Square)Auction | Steel automatic with date, bracelet. | This reference | €2,560≈ $2,750 |
| Dec 2023 | 2302 | Tajan (via Collector Square)Auction | Sold new in 2000. | This reference | €2,660≈ $2,850 |
| Aug 2026 | 2302 | Hampton Estate Auction (via EveryWatch) | 28 x 32 mm, automatic, silver dial. Sold 31 Aug 2026 for $2,768. Worn, service needed, chipped crystal edge. | Not countedlisting conflicts on metal: spec says steel, description says steel and gold | $2,768 |
| Jul 2026 | 2302 | Aponem (via EveryWatch) | 29 x 33 mm, automatic, serviced at Cartier Dusseldorf, box. Sold 29 Jul 2026 for $2,891. | Not countedlisting conflicts on metal: spec says steel, description says steel and yellow gold | $2,891 |
| Jul 2023 | 2302 | FellowsAuction | The Luxury Watch Sale, 13 Jul 2023, lot 34. Steel, 28 mm, Reference 2302, serial 473354CE, automatic cal. 120, silvered dial, date, bi-metal bracelet with double folding clasp, inner box. Price Realised is hammer plus buyer's premium including VAT. Result read by Kyle from the house's signed-in result page, 6 Nov 2026. | Not countedolder than the three-year window | £1,950≈ $2,450 |
Sales from November 2023 to November 2026, or from the last five years for a reference with fewer than three in that time. Only sales that name a reference count toward its estimate; sales of the rest of its version are shown for comparison and never folded in. Auction prices include the buyer's premium unless a row says hammer; dealer prices are the price at sale. Pound, euro and Hong Kong dollar figures are converted near the sale date. Most results come from the Collector Square and EveryWatch indexes and should be confirmed at the auction house; EveryWatch does not say whether its figures include the premium. The condition and option adjustments, the expected bid (75 to 85% of market value) and the auction range (62 to 72%) are working assumptions, to be replaced by Archiva's own bids as they come in. A sale far above or below the other sales of its reference is listed but not counted, so one unusual result can't pull the estimate. An estimate from public results, not an appraisal.
What every buyer, inheritor, and first-time collector should know.
Introduced 1977
A microscopic 'CARTIER' hidden within the Roman numerals, present on every genuine post-1977 dial.
Varies by origin and era
A Cartier case carries the Cartier signature, a reference and serial number on later pieces, and small struck marks for the metal and the case maker. Which marks appear depends on where the case was made: an eagle's head on Paris gold, JC and a date letter on London cases, the Helvetia head on Swiss 18k before 1995. The hallmarks guide shows what each one means.
Varies by era and model
Cartier sourced movements from various Swiss manufacturers throughout history, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, Frédéric Piguet, ETA, and in-house production. Knowing the correct caliber for a specific reference is essential for identifying the watch and establishing provenance.
A Cartier hallmark since the early 20th century
The blue sapphire (or spinel on less precious models) cabochon crown is a Cartier signature. Original crowns show consistent color saturation and are set flush with the crown body. Replacements often show misalignment or incorrect stone dimensions that reveal themselves under magnification.
Check the clasp first
Cartier bracelets carry their own reference markings and the deployment clasp should bear the Cartier name and logo. Aftermarket bracelets are extremely common on vintage pieces, so checking that the clasp is original and that reference numbers match is crucial to the overall picture.
Patina tells the story
Vintage Cartier dials develop characteristic aging: cream dials warm to ivory, lacquer dials may develop fine crazing, and applied indices can show legible wear patterns. Understanding acceptable versus concerning dial aging is key to valuing a vintage piece accurately.
Direct answers about the Cartier Tank Française, drawn from the reference records below.
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