Visual Description
The Tank Chinoise is a square Tank. Christie's describes its case as square with raised bars at both ends overlapping the sides and rounded lugs, and most examples are about 23 mm wide: catalogs give 23 × 30 mm or 24 × 31 mm, and some 23 × 23 mm.
Dials are white or silvered, with painted Roman numerals, radial on many examples, and blued steel hands in bâton, sword or épée shapes. Many examples have a sapphire-set crown, octagonal on some. Every example with a stated color in the records we found is 18k yellow gold, worn on a leather strap, most often with a Cartier deployant clasp in yellow or pink gold, or on an 18k gold Cartier link bracelet.
Reference Significance
This page covers the Tank Chinoise made without a reference number, from its launch to the 1970s. Cartier later revived the design as numbered references, in the Collection Privée Cartier Paris from about 2004 and in its Privé collection in 2022; those fall outside this archive's scope.
Most examples share the square case about 23 mm wide. Three other sizes appear once each in the records we found: a 21 × 28 mm example of the 1950s, a 19 × 26 mm example of the 1960s, and a 26 × 35 mm example made in the 1960s that Antiquorum catalogs with case and movement signed European Watch & Clock Co.
Historical Context
Christie's gives 1922 for the launch of the Tank Chinoise, in a note that refers to Franco Cologni's book on the Tank, and Sotheby's and Monaco Legend give the same year.
Antiquorum catalogs an example made about 1923 as one of the first Tank Chinoise, with a movement signed European Watch & Clock Co., and records one made in New York in 1946 and one made in Paris in 1970, each with a Cartier certificate. Other dated examples fall about 1930 and about 1950, and Cartier Paris examples with movements signed Cartier continue from about 1960 into the 1970s.
Catalog dates for the later Paris examples are loose. Antiquorum dated case numbers 033642 and 033646 to the 1970s and to about 1960 in the same year and dates 034890 to the 1950s, while Sotheby's dates 031781 to about 1975.
What to Look For
Start with the case: a square 18k yellow gold case with a raised bar across each end and Cartier case numbers, with no reference number. The movement should be hand-wound and fit the period: European Watch & Clock Co. on early examples, LeCoultre on one of about 1950, signed Cartier on Paris examples of the 1960s and 1970s.
Check the clasp against the case: Sotheby's catalogs one example with a non-matching clasp and Christie's another with an associated buckle. Look closely at the dial printing, the end bars and the crown.