The Secret Signature
Introduced 1977
A microscopic 'CARTIER' hidden within the Roman numerals, present on every genuine post-1977 dial.
An oversized stepped gold case from the early 1970s Louis Cartier Collection, made upright or wide, hand-wound and signed Paris on the dial.
The Gondole belongs to the Louis Cartier Collection, the group of named gold watches Cartier released in the early 1970s. Monaco Legend dates the collection to 1972, the year Phillips gives for the move of the maison's watch manufacture from France to Switzerland, while Craft + Tailored dates it to 1973 and writes that the Gondole arrived alongside the Cristallor, the Ellipse and the Vendôme. Like those siblings, it was made in 18k gold with a hand-wound movement and, on most examples, a dial signed Paris.
The Gondole that collectors seek is the Jumbo. Its case is flat, wide and stepped: a bezel that drops toward the dial in tiers, a back held by four screws and a beaded crown set with a sapphire cabochon. Christie's describes the wide version as cushion-shaped, Phillips compares the double-stepped case to a television screen of its era, and Monaco Legend catalogs it with the nickname TV Screen. Phillips calls it a very rare, oversized watch with immense presence on the wrist.
The dial is white with black Roman numerals, a chemin de fer minute track and blued steel hands, signed Paris at 6 o'clock. Phillips writes that the Paris signature marks watches sold through the Place Vendôme store. Inside is the hand-wound Cartier Cal. 97B with 17 jewels, recorded by Sotheby's, Phillips, Christie's, Antiquorum and Monaco Legend alike. Monaco Legend found the poinçon de maître of Guillod & Co. in the back of one example, identifying the case maker, along with French import marks for 18k gold.
Craft + Tailored writes that the Gondole came in vertical and horizontal case shapes, and the two Jumbo references follow that split. The Ref. 97050 is the upright Jumbo, about 34 × 39 mm, cataloged by Sotheby's, Phillips and Antiquorum under that number and by Monaco Legend as the Gondole Jumbo Verticale. The Ref. 97051 turns the case on its side, about 38 × 35 mm, and Monaco Legend and Antiquorum call it the Gondole Jumbo Horizontale. Monaco Legend calls the horizontal orientation unusual.
Both carry case numbers that begin with the reference. Some listings shorten both to 9705, so the case number and the shape are what tell them apart.
Most Gondole Jumbos are 18k yellow gold. White gold exists in both shapes, and Antiquorum writes that it is significantly scarcer than yellow gold. Most came on leather straps with an 18k gold Cartier deployant clasp or buckle; a few left Cartier on gold bracelets, including a yellow gold special-order bracelet and a white gold bamboo bracelet that Monaco Legend describes as possibly unique.
Craft + Tailored notes that the Gondole Jumbo's case is unusually large for its era and for Cartier, a house known for modest sizes through the 1970s. Because so much of its character lies in the stepped case, condition matters more than usual: crisp steps and hallmarks, an original Paris dial and a case number that begins with the reference tell most of the story of an example.
Ref. 97050 · c. 1972–late 1970s
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The Ref. 97050 is the upright Gondole Jumbo: a 34 × 39 mm 18k gold case with a stepped bezel, a white Paris dial with black Roman numerals and a chemin de fer minute track, and the hand-wound Cartier Cal. 97B with 17 jewels. Sotheby's, Phillips, Antiquorum and Monaco Legend have all sold it under this number.
2 documented references across 1 era
| Reference | |
|---|---|
| Ref. 9705018k Yellow Gold or 18k White Gold · Manual-wind | |
| Ref. 9705118k Yellow Gold or 18k White Gold · Manual-wind |
Choose your reference, set its condition, and see what it's likely to bring. Each estimate uses sales of that exact reference where there are enough of them.
The typical public example: light wear, original-looking dial, runs well. This is the baseline.
Two sales of Ref. 97050 (Jumbo Verticale 34 × 39 mm, 18k yellow gold, manual wind): $20,800 at Antiquorum Geneva, May 2026, and $22,750 at Phillips Hong Kong, Nov 2023. Too few to estimate from.
| Date | Ref. | Where | Details | Counts as | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| May 2026 | 97050 | Antiquorum GenevaAuction | Lot 96, 9 May 2026. 18k yellow gold, case 0063, cal. 97B. | This reference | CHF 16,250≈ $20,800 |
| Nov 2023 | 97050 | Phillips Hong KongAuction | The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII, lot 887, 24-25 Nov 2023. 18k yellow gold, case 970500659, cal. 97B. Sold For, which at Phillips includes the buyer's premium. | This reference | HK$177,800≈ $22,750 |
Sales from November 2023 to November 2026, or from the last five years for a reference with fewer than three in that time. Only sales that name a reference count toward its estimate; sales of the rest of its version are shown for comparison and never folded in. Auction prices include the buyer's premium unless a row says hammer; dealer prices are the price at sale. Euro, Swiss franc and Hong Kong dollar figures are converted at a rate near each sale date. Results are from the auction houses' own lot pages. Monaco Legend figures include the buyer's premium; Antiquorum and Phillips show a sold figure without stating it. Sotheby's and Cambi show results only to signed-in users, so their sales are not included. The condition and option adjustments, the expected bid (75 to 85% of market value) and the auction range (62 to 72%) are working assumptions, to be replaced by Archiva's own bids as they come in. A sale far above or below the other sales of its reference is listed but not counted, so one unusual result can't pull the estimate. An estimate from public results, not an appraisal.
What every buyer, inheritor, and first-time collector should know.
Introduced 1977
A microscopic 'CARTIER' hidden within the Roman numerals, present on every genuine post-1977 dial.
Varies by origin and era
A Cartier case carries the Cartier signature, a reference and serial number on later pieces, and small struck marks for the metal and the case maker. Which marks appear depends on where the case was made: an eagle's head on Paris gold, JC and a date letter on London cases, the Helvetia head on Swiss 18k before 1995. The hallmarks guide shows what each one means.
Varies by era and model
Cartier sourced movements from various Swiss manufacturers throughout history, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, Frédéric Piguet, ETA, and in-house production. Knowing the correct caliber for a specific reference is essential for identifying the watch and establishing provenance.
A Cartier hallmark since the early 20th century
The blue sapphire (or spinel on less precious models) cabochon crown is a Cartier signature. Original crowns show consistent color saturation and are set flush with the crown body. Replacements often show misalignment or incorrect stone dimensions that reveal themselves under magnification.
Check the clasp first
Cartier bracelets carry their own reference markings and the deployment clasp should bear the Cartier name and logo. Aftermarket bracelets are extremely common on vintage pieces, so checking that the clasp is original and that reference numbers match is crucial to the overall picture.
Patina tells the story
Vintage Cartier dials develop characteristic aging: cream dials warm to ivory, lacquer dials may develop fine crazing, and applied indices can show legible wear patterns. Understanding acceptable versus concerning dial aging is key to valuing a vintage piece accurately.
Direct answers about the Cartier Gondole, drawn from the reference records below.
Read the number on the back. A case number starting 97051 is the wide Gondole Jumbo Horizontale; one starting 97050 is the upright Jumbo. Then check the dial and movement.
START HERE →BUYERThe Gondole Jumbo shows every polish on its stepped case, and white gold is significantly scarcer than yellow. Know the reference, the case number and what an original Paris dial looks like before you commit.
CHECK BEFORE YOU BUY →SELLERCase condition, the metal and the dial drive interest in a Gondole Jumbo. A Cartier guarantee, box, booklet or original bracelet adds to the story.
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