How much will a dealer pay for a Ellipse?

Dealers buying to resell usually bid about 75 to 85% of public market value, because they carry the cost and risk of the resale. For a large 32 x 29 mm 18k gold manual wind Ellipse at the recent median of $6,400, that suggests bids of roughly $4,800 to $5,450. Archiva is opening a panel of specialist dealers who bid blind, with the seller keeping the whole winning bid.

What is the Cartier Ellipse?

A Cartier wristwatch from the 1973 Louis Cartier Collection with a stepped 18k gold case shaped as an oval laid on its side: flat at the top and bottom, swelling at the sides, and wider than it is tall. Documented examples have a white enamel dial signed Paris, black Roman numerals, blued sword hands and a hand-wound movement.

Which Ellipse reference do I have?

Read the number on the case back and measure the case. The Ref. 78091 is the large Ellipse, about 32 × 29 mm, on the hand-wound Cartier Cal. 78-1. The Ref. 67081 is the small one, about 26 × 23 mm, on the hand-wound Cal. 2412 with 17 jewels; Phillips calls it the smaller version of the 78091. Amsterdam Watch Company sells the two as the Ellipse GM and PM.

How is the Ellipse different from the Vendôme?

By the shape of the case. The Vendôme is round, while the Ellipse is a horizontal oval. The two came from the same collection with similar dials and movements, and their numbers sit side by side: the Vendôme 78090 and 67080 are round, the Ellipse 78091 and 67081 oval. One auction catalog has called a gem-set Vendôme 67080 an Ellipse Vendôme, so read the number on the back.

Is the Ellipse the same as the Gondole?

Craft + Tailored writes that the Ellipse was introduced alongside the Gondole, which suggests two separate models. Loupe This lists the 78091 and 67081 as the Ellipse Gondole, and Analog/Shift has offered a 78091 under the same name, while Phillips, Antiquorum, Monaco Legend and Artcurial call them simply the Ellipse.

Was the Ellipse made in quartz?

Phillips writes that quartz Ellipse models followed in the 1980s. The two references documented here, the 78091 and the 67081, are both hand-wound.

Cartier

Ellipse

A stepped gold oval laid on its side, flat at the top and bottom and swelling at the sides, introduced in the 1973 Louis Cartier Collection in a large and a small size.

What's it worth?View references Collector's Corner

History

The Louis Cartier Collection

The Ellipse was one of the shapes Cartier introduced in 1973 with the Louis Cartier Collection. Phillips and Analog/Shift date the collection to that year, and Loupe This dates the Ellipse itself to 1973. Craft + Tailored writes that it arrived alongside the Cristallor, the Gondole and the Vendôme. The Ellipses documented from those years are 18k gold and hand-wound, with dials signed Paris.

The Shape

The Ellipse is an oval laid on its side. Phillips describes a horizontally oriented oval case, Analog/Shift a slim, horizontal watch, and Loupe This a case whose flat top and bottom echo the Tank while its curved sides swell outward. The case is stepped toward the dial. The dial is white enamel with black Roman numerals and a railroad minute track, signed Paris at 6 o'clock, with blued sword hands, and the large model has a crown set with a blue sapphire cabochon.

Two Sizes

The Ref. 78091 is the large Ellipse, about 32 × 29 mm, on the hand-wound Cartier Cal. 78-1, which Amsterdam Watch Company describes as based on the ETA 2512. It is documented in 18k yellow gold, in 18k white gold, and with onyx and diamonds on the bezel.

The Ref. 67081 is the small Ellipse, about 26 × 23 mm, on the hand-wound Cal. 2412 with 17 jewels. Phillips calls it the smaller version of the 78091 and writes that it was offered in white or yellow gold, with a two-tone Deux Ors version from the mid-1970s. The plain yellow gold case is the one seen most often, and Phillips and Monaco Legend have sold examples set with diamonds, mother-of-pearl, rubies and yellow diamonds.

The numbers of both sizes sit beside those of the round Vendôme: the 33 mm Vendôme is the 78090 and the 26 mm one the 67080. Phillips writes that quartz Ellipse models followed in the 1980s.

The Ellipse Today

Dated examples of both references run from the 1970s into the 1980s. The Ellipse appears regularly at auction in Monaco, Hong Kong and Paris and with specialist dealers, more often in yellow gold than any other metal. Its names are not settled in the market: some listings call it the Ellipse Gondole, and one catalog has called a round Vendôme an Ellipse Vendôme, so the shape of the case and the number on its back are the surest guide.

Quintessential Reference

Ref. 67081 · c. 1975–1980s

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Reference: 67081; Small model (PM), 18k gold, manual wind
Year: c. 1975–1980s; Artcurial dates one to about 1975, Phillips and Monaco Legend date examples to the 1970s, Loupe This to the 1980s and Amsterdam Watch Company to about 1981; no source gives a production range
Movement: Manual; Cal. 2412 (ETA), 17 jewels
Case: 26 × 23 mm, 18k Yellow Gold
Dial: White; Enamel, black Roman numerals and railroad minute track, signed Paris
Hands: Blued steel; Sword-shaped
Crystal: Sapphire; Stated by Amsterdam Watch Company; the auction catalogs consulted do not give the type
Strap: Leather; Leather or satin, most often with an 18k gold Cartier deployant clasp

The Ref. 67081 is the small Ellipse: a horizontal oval 18k gold case about 26 × 23 mm, a white enamel Roman numeral dial signed Paris, blued sword hands and the hand-wound Cal. 2412 with 17 jewels. Phillips, Monaco Legend and Artcurial have all cataloged it, in plain gold and set with diamonds, mother-of-pearl or rubies.

Other Known References

2 documented references across 1 era

Reunion & Democratization1964–1992

2 refs

	Reference	Case Material	Movement	Case Size	Dial	Crystal
	Ref. 6708118k Yellow Gold · Manual	18k Yellow Gold	Manual	26 × 23 mm	White	Sapphire
	Ref. 7809118k Yellow Gold or 18k White Gold · Manual	18k Yellow Gold or 18k White Gold	Manual	32 × 29 mm	White	Acrylic

What is a Cartier Ellipse worth?

Choose your reference, set its condition, and see what it's likely to bring. Each estimate uses sales of that exact reference where there are enough of them.

Which reference is yours?Ref. 78091Large model (GM), 18k gold, manual wind1 saleRef. 67081Small model (PM), 18k gold, manual windStill gathering

ConditionVery good

Needs workFairVery goodExcellentExceptional

The typical public example: light wear, original-looking dial, runs well. This is the baseline.

Paris-signed dial+12% on the estimateOriginal papers or certificate+8% on the estimateOriginal Cartier box+5% on the estimateRecent Cartier service, with papers+5% on the estimateOriginal 18k Cartier deployant clasp or buckle in the case metal+4% on the estimateDial replaced or refinished−10% on the estimate

Estimated market value

One sale of Ref. 78091: $6,400 at Antiquorum Hong Kong, Nov 2025. Too few to estimate from.

What a dealer would likely payNot enough sales

See the sale of Ref. 78091

Date	Ref.	Where	Details	Counts as	Price
Nov 2025	78091	Antiquorum Hong KongAuction	Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces, lot 19, 30 Nov 2025. 18k yellow gold, case 2224, cal. 2512-1, Paris dial.	This reference	HK$50,000≈ $6,400

Sales from November 2023 to November 2026, or from the last five years for a reference with fewer than three in that time. Only sales that name a reference count toward its estimate; sales of the rest of its version are shown for comparison and never folded in. Auction prices include the buyer's premium unless a row says hammer; dealer prices are the price at sale. Hong Kong dollar and euro figures are converted at a rate near each sale date. Results are from the auction houses' own lot pages. Monaco Legend figures include the buyer's premium; Antiquorum and Phillips show a sold figure without stating it. Gem-set cases are listed but not counted. The condition and option adjustments, the expected bid (75 to 85% of market value) and the auction range (62 to 72%) are working assumptions, to be replaced by Archiva's own bids as they come in. A sale far above or below the other sales of its reference is listed but not counted, so one unusual result can't pull the estimate. An estimate from public results, not an appraisal.

Collector's Corner

What every buyer, inheritor, and first-time collector should know.

Buying Guide

01DIAL

The Secret Signature

Introduced 1977

A microscopic 'CARTIER' hidden within the Roman numerals, present on every genuine post-1977 dial.

02CASE

Case Back Hallmarks

Varies by origin and era

A Cartier case carries the Cartier signature, a reference and serial number on later pieces, and small struck marks for the metal and the case maker. Which marks appear depends on where the case was made: an eagle's head on Paris gold, JC and a date letter on London cases, the Helvetia head on Swiss 18k before 1995. The hallmarks guide shows what each one means.

03MOVEMENT

Movement Sourcing

Varies by era and model

Cartier sourced movements from various Swiss manufacturers throughout history, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, Frédéric Piguet, ETA, and in-house production. Knowing the correct caliber for a specific reference is essential for identifying the watch and establishing provenance.

04CROWN

Crown Sapphire Cabochon

A Cartier hallmark since the early 20th century

The blue sapphire (or spinel on less precious models) cabochon crown is a Cartier signature. Original crowns show consistent color saturation and are set flush with the crown body. Replacements often show misalignment or incorrect stone dimensions that reveal themselves under magnification.

05BRACELET

Bracelet and Clasp Markings

Check the clasp first

Cartier bracelets carry their own reference markings and the deployment clasp should bear the Cartier name and logo. Aftermarket bracelets are extremely common on vintage pieces, so checking that the clasp is original and that reference numbers match is crucial to the overall picture.

06DIAL

Dial Aging and Patina

Patina tells the story

Vintage Cartier dials develop characteristic aging: cream dials warm to ivory, lacquer dials may develop fine crazing, and applied indices can show legible wear patterns. Understanding acceptable versus concerning dial aging is key to valuing a vintage piece accurately.

Questions collectors ask

Direct answers about the Cartier Ellipse, drawn from the reference records below.

What is a Cartier Ellipse worth?: Public auction and dealer results from November 2023 to November 2026 put the large 32 x 29 mm 18k gold manual wind (Ref. 78091) at one public sale at $6,400. Condition, a recent Cartier service, and the original box and papers move an individual watch within or beyond these ranges, and the calculator on this page adjusts for each.
How much will a dealer pay for a Ellipse?: Dealers buying to resell usually bid about 75 to 85% of public market value, because they carry the cost and risk of the resale. For a large 32 x 29 mm 18k gold manual wind Ellipse at the recent median of $6,400, that suggests bids of roughly $4,800 to $5,450. Archiva is opening a panel of specialist dealers who bid blind, with the seller keeping the whole winning bid.
What is the Cartier Ellipse?: A Cartier wristwatch from the 1973 Louis Cartier Collection with a stepped 18k gold case shaped as an oval laid on its side: flat at the top and bottom, swelling at the sides, and wider than it is tall. Documented examples have a white enamel dial signed Paris, black Roman numerals, blued sword hands and a hand-wound movement.
Which Ellipse reference do I have?: Read the number on the case back and measure the case. The Ref. 78091 is the large Ellipse, about 32 × 29 mm, on the hand-wound Cartier Cal. 78-1. The Ref. 67081 is the small one, about 26 × 23 mm, on the hand-wound Cal. 2412 with 17 jewels; Phillips calls it the smaller version of the 78091. Amsterdam Watch Company sells the two as the Ellipse GM and PM.
How is the Ellipse different from the Vendôme?: By the shape of the case. The Vendôme is round, while the Ellipse is a horizontal oval. The two came from the same collection with similar dials and movements, and their numbers sit side by side: the Vendôme 78090 and 67080 are round, the Ellipse 78091 and 67081 oval. One auction catalog has called a gem-set Vendôme 67080 an Ellipse Vendôme, so read the number on the back.
Is the Ellipse the same as the Gondole?: Craft + Tailored writes that the Ellipse was introduced alongside the Gondole, which suggests two separate models. Loupe This lists the 78091 and 67081 as the Ellipse Gondole, and Analog/Shift has offered a 78091 under the same name, while Phillips, Antiquorum, Monaco Legend and Artcurial call them simply the Ellipse.
Was the Ellipse made in quartz?: Phillips writes that quartz Ellipse models followed in the 1980s. The two references documented here, the 78091 and the 67081, are both hand-wound.

Next Steps

INHERITOR