01DIAL
The Secret Signature
Introduced 1977
A microscopic 'CARTIER' hidden within the Roman numerals, present on every genuine post-1977 dial.
Cartier
Must de Cartier Colisée
A small round vermeil quartz watch from the Must de Cartier line, cataloged at auction from about 1988.
History
The Must de Cartier Line
The Colisée belongs to Les Must de Cartier, the vermeil line Cartier launched in the mid-1970s alongside its solid gold collections; the Tank Must page covers the line's origins. Must watches are cased in vermeil, sterling silver plated with gold, rather than solid gold.
The Colisée
The Colisée is a small round Must watch. The one reference documented at auction, the Ref. 590002, is 24 mm with a smooth bezel, a crown set with a blue cabochon and a quartz movement. Aguttes catalogs it as the Must de Cartier Colisée, circa 1988, with a cream Roman numeral dial, and a Paris house sale on Interencheres offered one in November 2025, circa 1990, with a white dial worked in gold, silver and copper tones.
Neighbors
The Colisée sits beside the Must Vendômes in the same numbering: the 24 mm Ref. 590004 and the 30 mm Ref. 590003, both vermeil and quartz. The 590004 is the same size and metal as the Colisée, so the case back number is the surest guide.
Quintessential Reference
Ref. 590002 · c. 1988–1990
Reference photography unavailable.
Want to sponsor this reference with your studio photography? Become a sponsor
- Reference
- 590002
- Vermeil, quartz, 24 mm
- Year
- c. 1988–1990
- Aguttes dates one example circa 1988 and a Paris sale on Interencheres another circa 1990; no source dates the end of production
- Movement
- Quartz
- Caliber not stated in the catalogs consulted
- Case
- 24 mm, Vermeil (925 sterling silver with gold plating)
- Dial
- Cream, or white with gold, silver and copper tones
- Roman numerals and a Cartier signature on both cataloged dials
- Hands
- Blued steel
- Sword-shaped on the example sold in Paris in 2025; Aguttes does not describe the hands
- Crystal
- Mineral glass
- As cataloged on the 2025 Paris example
- Strap
- Leather
- Aguttes catalogs a leather strap with a gilt metal pin buckle; the 2025 Paris example is on a blue leather strap signed Cartier Paris with a folding clasp
The Ref. 590002: a 24 mm round case of gold-plated sterling silver with a smooth bezel and a blue cabochon crown, on a quartz movement. Aguttes catalogs one with a cream Roman numeral dial, circa 1988, and a Paris sale offered another with a three-tone dial, circa 1990.
Other Known References
1 documented reference across 1 era
Reunion & Democratization1964–19921 ref
| Reference | |
|---|---|
| Ref. 590002Vermeil (925 sterling silver with gold plating) · Quartz |
Collector's Corner
What every buyer, inheritor, and first-time collector should know.
Buying Guide
02CASE
Case Back Hallmarks
Varies by origin and era
A Cartier case carries the Cartier signature, a reference and serial number on later pieces, and small struck marks for the metal and the case maker. Which marks appear depends on where the case was made: an eagle's head on Paris gold, JC and a date letter on London cases, the Helvetia head on Swiss 18k before 1995. The hallmarks guide shows what each one means.
03MOVEMENT
Movement Sourcing
Varies by era and model
Cartier sourced movements from various Swiss manufacturers throughout history, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, Frédéric Piguet, ETA, and in-house production. Knowing the correct caliber for a specific reference is essential for identifying the watch and establishing provenance.
04CROWN
Crown Sapphire Cabochon
A Cartier hallmark since the early 20th century
The blue sapphire (or spinel on less precious models) cabochon crown is a Cartier signature. Original crowns show consistent color saturation and are set flush with the crown body. Replacements often show misalignment or incorrect stone dimensions that reveal themselves under magnification.
05BRACELET
Bracelet and Clasp Markings
Check the clasp first
Cartier bracelets carry their own reference markings and the deployment clasp should bear the Cartier name and logo. Aftermarket bracelets are extremely common on vintage pieces, so checking that the clasp is original and that reference numbers match is crucial to the overall picture.
06DIAL
Dial Aging and Patina
Patina tells the story
Vintage Cartier dials develop characteristic aging: cream dials warm to ivory, lacquer dials may develop fine crazing, and applied indices can show legible wear patterns. Understanding acceptable versus concerning dial aging is key to valuing a vintage piece accurately.
Questions collectors ask
Direct answers about the Must de Cartier Colisée, drawn from the reference records below.
What is the Must de Cartier Colisée?
- A round vermeil quartz watch from the Must de Cartier line. Archiva documents one reference, the [Ref. 590002](/cartier/colisee/ref-590002): 24 mm, sterling silver plated with gold, with a blue cabochon crown, which Aguttes catalogs as the Must de Cartier Colisée, circa 1988.
How do I tell a Colisée from a Must Vendôme?
- By the number on the case back. The Colisée 590002 and the [Must Vendôme 590004](/cartier/vendome/ref-590004) are both 24 mm vermeil quartz watches; the larger 30 mm vermeil Vendôme is the [Ref. 590003](/cartier/vendome/ref-590003).
Is the Colisée solid gold?
- The documented 590002 is not. Auction catalogs describe its case as vermeil, 925 sterling silver plated with gold. Where the plating has worn at the edges, the silver underneath shows.
What should I check before buying a Colisée?
- The 590002 number on the case back, the plating at the edges, lugs and case back rim, the dial for spots or a refinish, and the blue cabochon on the crown. Ask for a photograph of the quartz movement.
Next Steps
INHERITOR
I inherited this watch
Read the number on the case back to confirm you have a Colisée, then check the vermeil plating and the dial.
START HERE →BUYERI'm buying this watch
Know how to tell the Colisée from the Must Vendôme, which dials are documented, and how to spot plating wear.
CHECK BEFORE YOU BUY →SELLERI'm selling this watch
Start with the reference, the dial and the condition of the plating, and gather any box and papers.
PRICE MY WATCH →
