What is the Must de Cartier Colisée Ref. 590002?

A small round watch from the Must de Cartier line: a 24 mm case of 925 sterling silver plated with gold, known as vermeil, with a smooth bezel, a crown set with a blue cabochon and a quartz movement. Aguttes catalogs one as the Must de Cartier Colisée, Ref. 590002, circa 1988.

How do I tell a Colisée 590002 from a Must Vendôme 590004?

Both are 24 mm vermeil quartz watches from the Must de Cartier line, so read the number on the case back: 590002 for the Colisée and 590004 for the [Must Vendôme](/cartier/vendome/ref-590004). Aguttes records the number with the serial 027337.

Which dials are documented on the 590002?

Two at auction: cream with Roman numerals, cataloged by Aguttes, and white with gold, silver and copper tones and painted Roman numerals, offered in Paris in 2025. Both are signed Cartier.

Cartier · Must de Cartier Colisée

Must de Cartier Colisée, Vermeil, Quartz

Ref. 590002c. 1988–1990

The Must de Cartier Colisée Ref. 590002 is a 24 mm round vermeil quartz watch of gold-plated sterling silver, dated by auction catalogs to c. 1988–1990, with Roman numerals on a cream or three-tone dial and a blue cabochon crown.

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Specifications

Reference: 590002; Vermeil, quartz, 24 mm
Year: c. 1988–1990; Aguttes dates one example circa 1988 and a Paris sale on Interencheres another circa 1990; no source dates the end of production
Movement: Quartz; Caliber not stated in the catalogs consulted
Case: 24 mm, Vermeil (925 sterling silver with gold plating)
Dial: Cream, or white with gold, silver and copper tones; Roman numerals and a Cartier signature on both cataloged dials
Hands: Blued steel; Sword-shaped on the example sold in Paris in 2025; Aguttes does not describe the hands
Crystal: Mineral glass; As cataloged on the 2025 Paris example
Strap: Leather; Aguttes catalogs a leather strap with a gilt metal pin buckle; the 2025 Paris example is on a blue leather strap signed Cartier Paris with a folding clasp

Visual Description

The Ref. 590002 is a round 24 mm watch in vermeil, sterling silver under gold plating, with a smooth bezel and a crown set with a blue cabochon stone. The example offered in Paris in 2025 has a mineral glass crystal.

Two dials are documented. Aguttes catalogs a cream dial with Roman numerals, signed. The Paris example has a white dial worked in gold, silver and copper tones, with painted Roman numerals and blued steel sword hands. Straps are leather, on a gilt pin buckle or a folding clasp.

Reference Significance

The 590002 is the Colisée of the Must de Cartier line, the vermeil quartz watches Cartier sold alongside its solid gold collections. Aguttes catalogs it as the Must de Cartier Colisée, and a Paris house sale on Interencheres as the Cartier Colisée, both under Ref. 590002, both 24 mm, vermeil and quartz.

Its closest neighbor is the 24 mm vermeil Must Vendôme, the Ref. 590004, which shares its size, metal and movement type. The case back number is the surest way to tell them apart.

Historical Context

The Must de Cartier line dates from the mid-1970s; the Tank Must page covers its origins. The Colisée examples documented at auction are later: Aguttes dates one circa 1988 and the Paris sale another circa 1990. No catalog consulted gives the caliber or says when production ended.

What to Look For

Read the case back for 590002; Aguttes records it with the serial 027337. On a vermeil case, check the edges, the lugs and the case back rim for gold worn through to the silver beneath.

Look at the dial for spots, fading or a refinish, and compare it with the two documented dials. Ask for a photograph of the quartz movement, and check that the crown still carries its cabochon.

Known Variants

Documented dial, case, and bracelet variations of Ref. 590002.

Cream Roman Dial

Cream dial with Roman numerals, signed, on a leather strap with a gilt metal pin buckle, as Aguttes catalogs an example of circa 1988, numbered 027337.

c. 1988Documented at auction

Three-Tone Dial

White dial with gold, silver and copper tones, painted Roman numerals and blued steel sword hands, on a blue leather strap signed Cartier Paris, offered in Paris in November 2025 as circa 1990.

c. 1990Documented at auction

How to tell it apart

What separates a Ref. 590002 from its neighbors, and what to check before you buy or sell one.

What is the Must de Cartier Colisée Ref. 590002?: A small round watch from the Must de Cartier line: a 24 mm case of 925 sterling silver plated with gold, known as vermeil, with a smooth bezel, a crown set with a blue cabochon and a quartz movement. Aguttes catalogs one as the Must de Cartier Colisée, Ref. 590002, circa 1988.
How do I tell a Colisée 590002 from a Must Vendôme 590004?: Both are 24 mm vermeil quartz watches from the Must de Cartier line, so read the number on the case back: 590002 for the Colisée and 590004 for the [Must Vendôme](/cartier/vendome/ref-590004). Aguttes records the number with the serial 027337.
Which dials are documented on the 590002?: Two at auction: cream with Roman numerals, cataloged by Aguttes, and white with gold, silver and copper tones and painted Roman numerals, offered in Paris in 2025. Both are signed Cartier.
What should I check before buying a Colisée 590002?: The 590002 number on the case back, and the plating: on a vermeil case, look at the edges, the lugs and the case back rim for gold worn through to the silver. Check the dial for spots or a refinish, and ask for a photograph of the quartz movement.

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