The Secret Signature
Introduced 1977
A microscopic 'CARTIER' hidden within the Roman numerals, present on every genuine post-1977 dial.
Cartier London's round gold watch with a square dial, made in the early 1970s and nicknamed the Baseball in the United States.
In the 1960s and 1970s Cartier's London branch designed and made watches of its own, among them the Crash of 1967 and the London Baignoire. The Pebble is one of the rarest. Bonhams writes that Cartier London designed the watch that bears the nickname Pebble, called the Baseball in the United States, and the-cartiers.com credits it to the London house under Jean-Jacques Cartier, with the case made by hand at the Wright & Davies workshop in Clerkenwell.
The Pebble sets a square dial in a round, softly rounded gold case. Phillips calls it a contrast between the circle of the case and the square of the dial, and Bonhams a square within a circle. Documented examples are 18k yellow gold, 35 to 35.5 mm, with hooded lugs, a cabochon-set crown and a gold deployant clasp numbered to match the case.
No source gives an exact count. Phillips writes that research suggests around six were made and that the model is in Cartier's heritage collection; Bonhams writes that only a handful are known. The-cartiers.com dates known examples by their London hallmarks from 1972 to 1975 and writes that they came in two sizes.
Phillips sold case number 1402, hallmarked for 1972, in Geneva in May 2021, and Bonhams sold case number 1270, also hallmarked for 1972 and offered by its original owner, in London in December 2022. Both are hand-wound: Bonhams catalogs the Jaeger-LeCoultre Cal. P838, and Phillips a movement with 18 jewels.
Sotheby's has used the name Pebble for two earlier Cartier watches of the 1940s, 24 and 26 mm, with LeCoultre movements and European Watch & Clock Co. markings. They are different watches from the London Pebble. In 2022, for the fiftieth anniversary of the 1972 model, Cartier issued a limited edition of 150 on the hand-wound 430 MC; it is a modern watch outside Archiva's scope.
London Pebble · c. 1972–1975
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The London Pebble: a 35–35.5 mm 18k yellow gold case with a square dial, hand-wound on the Jaeger-LeCoultre Cal. P838, with London hallmarks, the JC punch mark and a case number repeated on its gold deployant clasp. Bonhams and Phillips have each sold one hallmarked for 1972, and Phillips writes that around six were made.
1 documented reference across 1 era
| Reference | |
|---|---|
| London Pebble18k Yellow Gold · Manual |
What every buyer, inheritor, and first-time collector should know.
Introduced 1977
A microscopic 'CARTIER' hidden within the Roman numerals, present on every genuine post-1977 dial.
Varies by origin and era
A Cartier case carries the Cartier signature, a reference and serial number on later pieces, and small struck marks for the metal and the case maker. Which marks appear depends on where the case was made: an eagle's head on Paris gold, JC and a date letter on London cases, the Helvetia head on Swiss 18k before 1995. The hallmarks guide shows what each one means.
Varies by era and model
Cartier sourced movements from various Swiss manufacturers throughout history, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, Frédéric Piguet, ETA, and in-house production. Knowing the correct caliber for a specific reference is essential for identifying the watch and establishing provenance.
A Cartier hallmark since the early 20th century
The blue sapphire (or spinel on less precious models) cabochon crown is a Cartier signature. Original crowns show consistent color saturation and are set flush with the crown body. Replacements often show misalignment or incorrect stone dimensions that reveal themselves under magnification.
Check the clasp first
Cartier bracelets carry their own reference markings and the deployment clasp should bear the Cartier name and logo. Aftermarket bracelets are extremely common on vintage pieces, so checking that the clasp is original and that reference numbers match is crucial to the overall picture.
Patina tells the story
Vintage Cartier dials develop characteristic aging: cream dials warm to ivory, lacquer dials may develop fine crazing, and applied indices can show legible wear patterns. Understanding acceptable versus concerning dial aging is key to valuing a vintage piece accurately.
Direct answers about the Cartier Pebble, drawn from the reference records below.
Look inside the case back for London hallmarks, the JC punch mark and a case number, and check whether the clasp carries the same number. Do not polish the case before it has been examined.
START HERE →BUYERKnow how to tell a 1970s London Pebble from the 2022 reissue and from the earlier Cartier watches Sotheby's also calls the Pebble, and what to check on the marks, the clasp and the movement.
CHECK BEFORE YOU BUY →SELLERGather the hallmarks, the case and clasp numbers, the movement details and any provenance, then compare recorded sales.
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