What is the Cartier Ellipse Ref. 67081?

The small Ellipse of the 1973 Louis Cartier Collection: a horizontal oval case in 18k gold about 26 mm wide and 22 to 23 mm high, with a white Roman numeral dial signed Paris, blued sword hands and a hand-wound Cal. 2412 with 17 jewels. Phillips calls it the smaller version of the Ref. 78091.

Is the 67081 an Ellipse or a Vendôme?

An Ellipse. Phillips, Monaco Legend, Artcurial and Analog/Shift all catalog the 67081 as an Ellipse, and Phillips describes its case as a horizontally oriented oval. The Vendôme Ref. 67080, one number away, is a round 26 mm watch. Some listings mix the two names up, so read the number on the back and look at the shape of the case.

How do I tell the 67081 from the larger Ellipse Ref. 78091?

By size and movement. The 67081 measures about 26 × 23 mm and runs on the Cal. 2412. The 78091 measures about 32 × 29 mm and runs on the Cartier Cal. 78-1, which Amsterdam Watch Company describes as based on the ETA 2512. Monaco Legend catalogs the 67081 as the Ellipse PM, and Amsterdam Watch Company sells the two sizes as the PM and GM.

What movement is in the 67081?

A hand-wound Cal. 2412 with 17 jewels, as Phillips and Monaco Legend both catalog it. Artcurial calls it an ETA 2412. A quartz movement is not original to this reference; Phillips writes that quartz Ellipse models came later, in the 1980s.

What should I check before buying a 67081?

The number 67081 and the case number on the back, and that the back's screws are all present; a hand-wound Cal. 2412 signed Cartier; a white enamel dial signed Paris, looking for hairline cracks and losses near the signature; crisp steps on the case; and an 18k gold Cartier deployant clasp. On a gem-set example, ask whether the setting is described as Cartier's own.

Cartier · Ellipse

Ellipse, Small Model, 18k Gold

Ref. 67081c. 1975–1980s

The Cartier Ellipse Ref. 67081 is the small Ellipse of the Louis Cartier Collection: a horizontal oval 26 × 23 mm 18k yellow gold case, hand-wound on the ETA-based Cal. 2412 with 17 jewels, made c. 1975–1980s, with a white Paris dial.

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Specifications

Reference: 67081; Small model (PM), 18k gold, manual wind
Year: c. 1975–1980s; Artcurial dates one to about 1975, Phillips and Monaco Legend date examples to the 1970s, Loupe This to the 1980s and Amsterdam Watch Company to about 1981; no source gives a production range
Movement: Manual; Cal. 2412 (ETA), 17 jewels
Case: 26 × 23 mm, 18k Yellow Gold; Horizontal oval with flat top and bottom, stepped case
Dial: White; Enamel, black Roman numerals and railroad minute track, signed Paris
Hands: Blued steel; Sword-shaped
Crystal: Sapphire; Stated by Amsterdam Watch Company; the auction catalogs consulted do not give the type
Strap: Leather; Leather or satin, most often with an 18k gold Cartier deployant clasp

Visual Description

The Ref. 67081 is a small oval laid on its side: Phillips describes a horizontally oriented oval case, and Loupe This describes flat top and bottom edges with swollen sides. Phillips and Monaco Legend measure it at 26 mm wide and 22 to 23 mm high, and Artcurial at 26 × 23 mm. Monaco Legend describes the case as stepped, and Artcurial the bezel as fluted.

The white enamel dial carries black Roman numerals and a railroad minute track, signed Paris at 6 o'clock, under blued steel sword hands. Examples come on leather or satin straps, most often with an 18k gold Cartier deployant clasp.

Reference Significance

The 67081 is the small Ellipse. Phillips calls it the smaller version of the Ref. 78091, the large Ellipse on the Cartier Cal. 78-1. Monaco Legend catalogs the 67081 as the Ellipse PM, and Amsterdam Watch Company sells the two sizes as the PM and GM.

Its number sits beside the Vendôme Ref. 67080, the round 26 mm Vendôme of the same collection, just as the large Ellipse 78091 sits beside the 33 mm Vendôme 78090. The two shapes share their gold, their Paris dials and their hand-wound movements; the oval case is what makes an Ellipse.

The plain gold case is the configuration seen most often. Gem-set versions are documented at auction: Monaco Legend has sold one with a double row of diamonds and one with mother-of-pearl and diamonds, and Phillips one with a ruby-set case and a bezel of yellow diamonds.

Historical Context

The Ellipse was one of the shapes of the Louis Cartier Collection, which Phillips, Analog/Shift and Loupe This date to 1973. Phillips writes that the 67081 was offered in 18k white or yellow gold, that a two-tone Deux Ors version followed in the mid-1970s, and that quartz models came in the 1980s.

Dated examples run from about 1975, the date Artcurial gives its example, into the 1980s: Amsterdam Watch Company dates its example to about 1981 and Loupe This one to the 1980s. Phillips and Monaco Legend date their examples to the 1970s. Monaco Legend's diamond-set example came with two Cartier repair guarantees dated 2000.

What to Look For

Case back: Read 67081 and the case number; Phillips, Monaco Legend and Artcurial record short case numbers (3'198, 3'105, 3'439 and 1458). Artcurial noted two case-back screws missing on its example, so check that all are present.

Movement: Ask for a photograph. Phillips and Monaco Legend catalog a hand-wound Cal. 2412 with 17 jewels, and Monaco Legend and Artcurial record the movement as signed.

Dial: The white enamel is prone to hairline cracks with age, and Artcurial recorded a loss at 6 o'clock that wore away part of the Paris signature. Fine crazing is common; refinishing is not desirable.

Case: The steps around the bezel should be crisp. Heavy polishing softens them for good.

Clasp: An 18k gold Cartier deployant clasp is the norm. Artcurial's example came with a gold-plated buckle that it described as not original.

Known Variants

Documented dial, case, and bracelet variations of Ref. 67081.

18k Yellow Gold

Plain stepped yellow gold case with a white Roman numeral dial signed Paris, as Artcurial, Loupe This and Amsterdam Watch Company catalog it.

c. 1975–1980sThe most often documented configuration

Diamond-Set Bezel

Yellow gold with a bezel set with diamonds and, on some examples, a diamond-set crown. Monaco Legend sold one with a double row of diamonds, case 3'105, and Analog/Shift has offered another.

c. 1970sDocumented at auction and by a dealer

Mother-of-Pearl and Diamond Bezel

Yellow gold with a bezel set with diamonds and mother-of-pearl and a diamond cabochon crown. Monaco Legend sold one, case 3'439.

c. 1970sOne example documented

Ruby and Yellow Diamond

Yellow gold case set with rubies, a bezel set with yellow diamonds and a diamond-set crown, on a satin strap. Phillips sold one, case 3'198, with its fitted box.

c. 1970sOne example documented

18k White Gold and Deux Ors

Phillips writes that the 67081 was offered in 18k white or yellow gold and that a two-tone Deux Ors version followed in the mid-1970s. No white gold or two-tone 67081 was found in a catalog or dealer listing.

Not documented in the sources consulted

How to tell it apart

What separates a Ref. 67081 from its neighbors, and what to check before you buy or sell one.

What is the Cartier Ellipse Ref. 67081?: The small Ellipse of the 1973 Louis Cartier Collection: a horizontal oval case in 18k gold about 26 mm wide and 22 to 23 mm high, with a white Roman numeral dial signed Paris, blued sword hands and a hand-wound Cal. 2412 with 17 jewels. Phillips calls it the smaller version of the Ref. 78091.
Is the 67081 an Ellipse or a Vendôme?: An Ellipse. Phillips, Monaco Legend, Artcurial and Analog/Shift all catalog the 67081 as an Ellipse, and Phillips describes its case as a horizontally oriented oval. The Vendôme Ref. 67080, one number away, is a round 26 mm watch. Some listings mix the two names up, so read the number on the back and look at the shape of the case.
How do I tell the 67081 from the larger Ellipse Ref. 78091?: By size and movement. The 67081 measures about 26 × 23 mm and runs on the Cal. 2412. The 78091 measures about 32 × 29 mm and runs on the Cartier Cal. 78-1, which Amsterdam Watch Company describes as based on the ETA 2512. Monaco Legend catalogs the 67081 as the Ellipse PM, and Amsterdam Watch Company sells the two sizes as the PM and GM.
What movement is in the 67081?: A hand-wound Cal. 2412 with 17 jewels, as Phillips and Monaco Legend both catalog it. Artcurial calls it an ETA 2412. A quartz movement is not original to this reference; Phillips writes that quartz Ellipse models came later, in the 1980s.
What should I check before buying a 67081?: The number 67081 and the case number on the back, and that the back's screws are all present; a hand-wound Cal. 2412 signed Cartier; a white enamel dial signed Paris, looking for hairline cracks and losses near the signature; crisp steps on the case; and an 18k gold Cartier deployant clasp. On a gem-set example, ask whether the setting is described as Cartier's own.

Other Ellipse References

Ref. 78091Photograph wanted

Ref. 78091

Ellipse, Large Model, 18k Gold

18k Yellow Gold or 18k White Gold · c. 1970s–1980s

Back to Ellipse