Visual Description
The Ref. 2490 is the medium Tank Américaine in 18k white gold, about 22.5 × 41.5 mm and 9.5 mm thick. Catalogs measure it at 22.5 to 23 mm wide and 41 to 42 mm long. The case curves along its length and the back is secured by screws. The octagonal crown carries a sapphire on plain examples and a diamond cabochon on diamond-set ones.
The dial is silvered guilloché, with painted black Roman numerals, an inner minute track, the secret Cartier signature in the VII and a date aperture at 6, under blued steel sword hands and a center seconds hand. The watch comes on a leather strap with an 18k white gold Cartier deployant clasp or buckle, or on an 18k white gold bracelet with a concealed clasp.
Reference Significance
The 2490 is a white gold automatic of the medium Américaine, the same size as the yellow gold Ref. 1725 and smaller than the large white gold automatic Ref. 1741. None of the catalogs and dealer records found for this page describes it as a limited edition or as part of the Collection Privée.
It is found both plain and set with diamonds. Bachmann & Scher describes original Cartier diamond setting on the two sides of the case and a diamond cabochon on the crown, and Bulang & Sons has sold one with a pavé dial of diamonds alternating with double C logos.
Historical Context
Dated examples run from circa 2000 to circa 2005. Lyon & Turnbull dates one circa 2000 and Antiquorum records another as sold in November 2001, so the reference was in production by 2001. Others carry papers dated December 2003 or are cataloged circa 2005, and one came to auction with a Cartier sales receipt dated July 2008.
Catalogs disagree on the movement's label. Sotheby's names the Cal. 077 with 25 jewels, while Antiquorum catalogs a Cal. 200 with 20 jewels; both describe an automatic with a date.
What to Look For
Read the case number and any papers. Catalogs pair the 2490 with case numbers of five or six digits and two letters, and a dated certificate or receipt shows whether a watch falls within Archiva's scope, which runs through about 2001.
On the dial, look for the secret signature in the VII and a date disc sitting square in the aperture at 6. On diamond-set examples, check that every stone is present and that the setting matches on both sides of the case. A yellow gold case of this size means the Ref. 1725, and a case 26 mm or more wide means the large Ref. 1741. A buckle, deployant clasp or bracelet should be signed Cartier and in white gold.


