Cartier · Panthère de Cartier

Panthère de Cartier, Small, 18k Yellow Gold

Ref. 107000c. 1989–1994Also cataloged as 107000M

The Cartier Panthère Ref. 107000 is the small 22 × 30 mm 18k yellow gold quartz Panthère whose case back reads 107000M, dated c. 1989–1994 and usually worn on its integrated gold bracelet with a double folding clasp.

Have this watch?

Two recent sales of Ref. 107000

  • Dec 2024AguttesLot 24, 9 Dec 2024. 22 x 30 mm, 18k (750) yellow gold, quartz. Result includes premium.$12,950
  • Dec 2023TajanLot 45B, 6 Dec 2023. 30 x 22 mm, 18k yellow gold, quartz, gold bracelet with invisible folding clasp; sold new in 1993. Premium not stated.$9,150
For comparison

Small, 18k gold (Ref. 107000, 8669, 1070 and 3057917): $8,450 to $9,600, median $8,500 across 11 sales, two of them Ref. 107000.

Two sales are a rough guide. Two more sales were left out. See them in the calculator.

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Specifications

Reference
107000
Small model, 18k yellow gold, quartz (case back 107000M)
Year
c. 1989–1994
Dated examples run from 1989 (Bachmann & Scher) to Cartier warranty papers of 1992 (Aguttes) and 1994 (Artcurial).
Movement
Quartz
Cartier quartz caliber
Case
22 × 30 mm, 18k Yellow Gold
Dial
Cream, white or silvered, painted Roman numerals
Painted Roman numerals and a railroad minute track, with Cartier's secret signature
Hands
Blued steel sword hands
Crystal
Sapphire crystal
Strap
Integrated 18k yellow gold bracelet
Signed double folding (butterfly) clasp; also seen on a strap with a folding buckle

Visual Description

The Ref. 107000 is the small Panthère in solid 18k yellow gold. Its case is about 22 mm wide and 30 mm long, a softened square with a screwed bezel and an octagonal crown set with a blue cabochon. The screwed case back is engraved Cartier, Quartz, 18K, Swiss Made, 107000M and a six-digit serial number.

The dial is cream, white or silvered, with painted Roman numerals, a railroad minute track and Cartier's secret signature, read by blued steel sword hands under a sapphire crystal. Most examples are on the integrated gold bracelet with a signed double folding clasp. Some are on a strap instead: Artcurial's January 2018 sale cataloged one with only a signed gold folding buckle and a weight of 34 g, and the one shown here is on a black leather strap with a gold-tone Cartier deployant buckle.

Reference Significance

The 107000 is the small all-gold Panthère under the number engraved on its case backs from about 1989 to 1994. Its size, metal, movement and dial match the small gold Panthères Archiva lists as the Ref. 8669, the Ref. 1070 and the Ref. 1280, so reading the case back tells an owner which page is theirs. The 1070 follows the 107000M closely, with examples dated from 1992, but no catalog found prints both numbers on one watch.

In solid gold and at this size, the Panthère is at its most jewelry-like: a quartz watch whose bracelet matters as much as its dial. Examples sold with their Cartier warranty papers, and the diamond-set versions, show it was sold as jewelry first.

Historical Context

Cartier launched the Panthère in 1983 as a quartz watch built around its integrated bracelet, in steel, gold and two-tone and in several sizes. The small gold model was part of the line from its early years.

The examples marked 107000M are dated from 1989, the year Bachmann & Scher gives for one with Cartier's original diamond setting, to 1994, the date of a Cartier guarantee sold with an Artcurial example; Aguttes sold one with its warranty card dated December 1992 and two additional links. Small gold examples marked 8669 are dated from 1987 into the 1990s, and ones marked 1280 from about 1995, so the numbers overlap rather than follow one another. No source found so far explains the different numbers.

What to Look For

Case back: It should read 107000M followed by a serial number, alongside the 18k hallmarks. On a small all-gold Panthère, 8669, 1070 or 1280 on the back points to those pages.

Bracelet and clasp: Gold Panthère bracelets stretch with wear. Check for slack between the links, count them against the wrist size, and make sure the double folding clasp is signed and closes firmly. Spare links, like the two that came with the 1992 example Aguttes sold, are a plus.

Diamonds: Factory diamond-set examples exist, with diamonds on the bezel and lugs. Without Cartier papers, a diamond-set case is hard to place as factory work.

Dial and crown: The painted numerals and the secret signature should be crisp. A refinished dial loses detail, and the blue cabochon in the crown is easily chipped or replaced.

Papers: Cartier warranty cards dated to the early 1990s, like those sold with the Aguttes and Artcurial examples, support the date and are worth having.

Known Variants

Documented dial, case, and bracelet variations of Ref. 107000.

Gold bracelet

The integrated 18k yellow gold bracelet with a signed double folding clasp, the way most examples are cataloged.

Strap

On a strap with a folding buckle. Artcurial's January 2018 sale cataloged an example with only a signed gold folding buckle and a weight of 34 g, which points to a strap, and the example in these photos is on a black leather strap with a gold-tone Cartier deployant buckle stamped stainless steel.

Diamond-set bezel and lugs

Diamonds on the bezel and lugs. Bachmann & Scher documented an example with Cartier's original setting; Le Floch sold one with a double row of diamonds on the bezel and lugs and set bracelet links.

Collector's Corner

Reading the case back

What the numbers on the back of Ref. 107000 mean. Swiss production, late 1980s to 1990s.

The case back of Ref. 107000
Reference
107000M
Six digits and an M, under SWISS MADE. Aguttes prints it the same way, as réf. 107000M.
Serial
Six digits, below the reference
00···· on this back. Aguttes prints one as n° 00····.
Metal
18K
Written as 18K under Quartz. Aguttes catalogs 18k (750) yellow gold.
Hallmarks
Two small marks beside 18K
One either side, too small in this photo to read. The Swiss marks are in the hallmarks guide.
Dating
The warranty card, not the digits
Aguttes sold one with its warranty card dated December 1992.
Clasp
Signed folding clasp, on the gold bracelet
Aguttes catalogs the gold bracelet with its signed folding clasp.

Serials quoted from catalogs are shortened with dots: they belong to their owners. How Cartier numbered its cases in each era is on the case back guide, and the stamped marks are in the hallmarks guide.

How to tell it apart

What separates a Ref. 107000 from its neighbors, and what to check before you buy or sell one.

What is a Panthère de Cartier Ref. 107000 worth?

Archiva has found two public sales of Ref. 107000 in the last three years: $12,950 at Aguttes in December 2024 and $9,150 at Tajan in December 2023. Two sales are a rough guide, not a market price. Two more sales were left out. For comparison, from November 2023 to November 2026: Small, 18k gold (Ref. 107000, 8669, 1070 and 3057917): $8,450 to $9,600, median $8,500 across 11 sales, two of them Ref. 107000.

What is the Panthère Ref. 107000?

The small Panthère in solid 18k yellow gold: a 22 × 30 mm case with a blue cabochon crown, a cream, white or silvered dial with painted Roman numerals and blued steel sword hands, a quartz movement, and an integrated gold bracelet with a double folding clasp. The case back reads 107000M followed by a serial number.

Is the Ref. 107000 the large Jumbo Panthère?

No. Every auction catalog that gives the size of a 107000M describes the small model, 22 mm wide; Aguttes catalogs it as the Panthère PM, petit modèle. The Jumbo is a different, much larger watch at about 29 × 40 mm.

How does the 107000 relate to the 8669, the 1070 and the 1280?

Its size, metal, movement and dial match the small gold Panthères Archiva lists as the 8669, the 1070 and the 1280, and the number on the case back is what tells them apart. Dated 8669 examples overlap the 107000M's 1989 to 1994, and Bachmann & Scher lists a 107000M of 1989 and 1070s of 1992 to 1998, each under its own number, so the numbers are not a simple sequence. No source found so far prints two of them on one watch or explains them.

How do I confirm a Ref. 107000 is solid gold?

Look for 18k (750) hallmarks on the case, the bracelet and the clasp, and check that case and bracelet match in color and wear. A seller should be able to give the weight; a bracelet that seems light for solid gold may be missing links or carry replacements.

What should I check before buying a Ref. 107000?

The case back first: it should read 107000M and a serial number. Then the bracelet for stretch and missing links, the signed folding clasp, the blue cabochon crown and the dial for refinishing. Spare links are a plus. On a diamond-set example, ask for Cartier papers, since without them a diamond-set case is hard to place as factory work.

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