Visual Description
The Ref. 107000 is the small Panthère in solid 18k yellow gold. Its case is about 22 mm wide and 30 mm long, a softened square with a screwed bezel and an octagonal crown set with a blue cabochon. The screwed case back is engraved Cartier, Quartz, 18K, Swiss Made, 107000M and a six-digit serial number.
The dial is cream, white or silvered, with painted Roman numerals, a railroad minute track and Cartier's secret signature, read by blued steel sword hands under a sapphire crystal. Most examples are on the integrated gold bracelet with a signed double folding clasp. Some are on a strap instead: Artcurial's January 2018 sale cataloged one with only a signed gold folding buckle and a weight of 34 g, and the one shown here is on a black leather strap with a gold-tone Cartier deployant buckle.
Reference Significance
The 107000 is the small all-gold Panthère under the number engraved on its case backs from about 1989 to 1994. Its size, metal, movement and dial match the small gold Panthères Archiva lists as the Ref. 8669, the Ref. 1070 and the Ref. 1280, so reading the case back tells an owner which page is theirs. The 1070 follows the 107000M closely, with examples dated from 1992, but no catalog found prints both numbers on one watch.
In solid gold and at this size, the Panthère is at its most jewelry-like: a quartz watch whose bracelet matters as much as its dial. Examples sold with their Cartier warranty papers, and the diamond-set versions, show it was sold as jewelry first.
Historical Context
Cartier launched the Panthère in 1983 as a quartz watch built around its integrated bracelet, in steel, gold and two-tone and in several sizes. The small gold model was part of the line from its early years.
The examples marked 107000M are dated from 1989, the year Bachmann & Scher gives for one with Cartier's original diamond setting, to 1994, the date of a Cartier guarantee sold with an Artcurial example; Aguttes sold one with its warranty card dated December 1992 and two additional links. Small gold examples marked 8669 are dated from 1987 into the 1990s, and ones marked 1280 from about 1995, so the numbers overlap rather than follow one another. No source found so far explains the different numbers.
What to Look For
Case back: It should read 107000M followed by a serial number, alongside the 18k hallmarks. On a small all-gold Panthère, 8669, 1070 or 1280 on the back points to those pages.
Bracelet and clasp: Gold Panthère bracelets stretch with wear. Check for slack between the links, count them against the wrist size, and make sure the double folding clasp is signed and closes firmly. Spare links, like the two that came with the 1992 example Aguttes sold, are a plus.
Diamonds: Factory diamond-set examples exist, with diamonds on the bezel and lugs. Without Cartier papers, a diamond-set case is hard to place as factory work.
Dial and crown: The painted numerals and the secret signature should be crisp. A refinished dial loses detail, and the blue cabochon in the crown is easily chipped or replaced.
Papers: Cartier warranty cards dated to the early 1990s, like those sold with the Aguttes and Artcurial examples, support the date and are worth having.









