What is a Panthère de Cartier Ref. 8669 worth?

Public auction and dealer results for Ref. 8669 from November 2023 to November 2026 come to $8,500 to $10,000, with a median of $8,500 across 5 sales of this exact reference. The most recent was $13,600 at Aguttes in July 2026. Condition, service history, and the original box and papers move an individual watch within that range.

What is the Panthère Ref. 8669?

The small Panthère in 18k yellow gold from the late 1980s into the 1990s: a 22 × 30 mm case about 5 mm thick on an integrated gold bracelet with a double folding clasp, a cream or silvered dial with painted Roman numerals and a railway minute track, blued steel sword hands and a sapphire crystal. It is quartz; no catalog we consulted names the caliber. Some examples are diamond-set.

Was the 8669 made with diamonds?

Yes. A dealer sold a 1987 example with a diamond bezel, and Antiquorum sold one with a diamond-set case and bracelet that it dates to the 1990s. Most auction examples are plain gold.

How does the 8669 differ from the Ref. 1280?

Both are small 22 × 30 mm 18k yellow gold quartz Panthères. The 8669 is the earlier reference, dated from 1987 into the 1990s; the 1280 is dated from 1995 to about 2001 and is cataloged on the Cal. 157.06. Between them sits the 107000 of about 1989 to 1994. The number on the case back tells them apart.

What should I check before buying a Ref. 8669?

The number on the case, which houses print as 8669 followed by a serial, such as 8669110996. Then the 18k gold case, bracelet and clasp, a tight bracelet whose double folding clasp locks securely, an evenly aged dial with intact painted numerals and the secret signature at X, blued hands and a sapphire crystal. On diamond-set examples, check that the setting is complete. A dated Cartier guarantee helps date a watch.

Cartier · Panthère de Cartier

Panthère de Cartier, Small, 18k Yellow Gold

Ref. 8669c. 1987–1990s

The Cartier Panthère Ref. 8669 is the small 22 × 30 mm 18k yellow gold quartz Panthère dated c. 1987–1990s, with a cream or silvered dial, a sapphire crystal and an integrated gold bracelet; case numbers run the reference into the serial, as in 8669113716.

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Recent sales of Ref. 8669: $8,500 to $10,000, median $8,500 across 5 sales of this exact reference, Nov 2023 to Nov 2026. What's yours worth?

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Specifications

Reference: 8669; Small model, 18k yellow gold, quartz
Year: c. 1987–1990s; Dated examples run from 1987 and a Cartier guarantee of June 1988; Antiquorum catalogs one as made in the 1990s, though it sold with a 1988 bill of sale
Movement: Quartz; Cartier quartz caliber
Case: 22 × 30 mm, 18k Yellow Gold
Dial: Cream or silvered; Painted Roman numerals, railway minute track, secret Cartier signature at X
Hands: Blued steel; Sword-shaped
Crystal: Sapphire; Sapphire on the auction and dealer examples that state the crystal
Strap: Integrated 18k yellow gold bracelet; 18k yellow gold link bracelet with a double folding clasp, signed

Visual Description

The Ref. 8669 is the small Panthère in 18k yellow gold, 22 × 30 mm and about 5 mm thick, on an integrated gold link bracelet that closes with a signed double folding clasp. The dial is cream, ivory or silvered, with painted Roman numerals, a railway minute track and the secret Cartier signature at X, read by blued steel sword hands under a sapphire crystal. Most auction examples are plain gold; diamond-set bezels and cases are also documented.

Reference Significance

The 8669 is the earliest of the three small gold Panthère references with an Archiva page, ahead of the 107000 and the 1280, which share its size and metal. Houses rarely print the reference on its own. Instead they give the case number, which runs the reference straight into the serial, as in 8669113716 or 86691120211.

Historical Context

Cartier introduced the Panthère in 1983. Dated 8669s run from 1987 and a Cartier guarantee of June 1988; Antiquorum catalogs one as made in the 1990s, though it sold with a 1988 bill of sale. Some catalogs date plain examples to circa 1980, earlier than the model's introduction, so those datings are best read as approximate.

What to Look For

Read the number on the case: it should begin 8669. Check the 18k gold case, bracelet and clasp, a tight bracelet whose double folding clasp locks securely, and an evenly aged dial with intact painted numerals and the secret signature at X. The hands should be blued steel and the crystal sapphire. On diamond-set examples, look for a complete, even setting. Cartier papers, like the 1988 guarantee sold with one Aguttes example, help date a watch.

Known Variants

Documented dial, case, and bracelet variations of Ref. 8669.

Plain Gold

18k yellow gold case and bracelet without stones, the configuration of most auction examples.

c. 1987–1990sMost documented examples

Diamond-Set

A diamond-set bezel, as on a Bachmann & Scher example of 1987, or a diamond-set case and bracelet, as on one Antiquorum dates to the 1990s.

c. 1987–1990sDocumented by a dealer and at auction

How to tell it apart

What separates a Ref. 8669 from its neighbors, and what to check before you buy or sell one.

What is a Panthère de Cartier Ref. 8669 worth?: Public auction and dealer results for Ref. 8669 from November 2023 to November 2026 come to $8,500 to $10,000, with a median of $8,500 across 5 sales of this exact reference. The most recent was $13,600 at Aguttes in July 2026. Condition, service history, and the original box and papers move an individual watch within that range.
What is the Panthère Ref. 8669?: The small Panthère in 18k yellow gold from the late 1980s into the 1990s: a 22 × 30 mm case about 5 mm thick on an integrated gold bracelet with a double folding clasp, a cream or silvered dial with painted Roman numerals and a railway minute track, blued steel sword hands and a sapphire crystal. It is quartz; no catalog we consulted names the caliber. Some examples are diamond-set.
Was the 8669 made with diamonds?: Yes. A dealer sold a 1987 example with a diamond bezel, and Antiquorum sold one with a diamond-set case and bracelet that it dates to the 1990s. Most auction examples are plain gold.
How does the 8669 differ from the Ref. 1280?: Both are small 22 × 30 mm 18k yellow gold quartz Panthères. The 8669 is the earlier reference, dated from 1987 into the 1990s; the 1280 is dated from 1995 to about 2001 and is cataloged on the Cal. 157.06. Between them sits the 107000 of about 1989 to 1994. The number on the case back tells them apart.
What should I check before buying a Ref. 8669?: The number on the case, which houses print as 8669 followed by a serial, such as 8669110996. Then the 18k gold case, bracelet and clasp, a tight bracelet whose double folding clasp locks securely, an evenly aged dial with intact painted numerals and the secret signature at X, blued hands and a sapphire crystal. On diamond-set examples, check that the setting is complete. A dated Cartier guarantee helps date a watch.