Visual Description
The London Pebble is a round 18k yellow gold case with a square dial set inside it. Phillips describes the design as the contrast between the circle of the case and the square of the dial, and Bonhams as a square within a circle. The case is polished, with hooded lugs and a crown set with a cabochon, and its back is held by four screws.
On the example Bonhams sold, the dial is cream with black Roman numerals, a black inner minute track and blued steel sword hands, signed Cartier. The watch is fitted to a brown Cartier alligator strap with an 18k gold deployant clasp. Bonhams gives the diameter as 35 mm and Phillips as 35.5 mm.
Reference Significance
The Pebble is one of the designs Cartier London made in its own name in the late 1960s and early 1970s, alongside the Crash and the London Baignoire. Like them, it has no reference number. Bonhams and Phillips both identify their examples by London hallmarks, the JC punch mark of Jacques Cartier and a case number repeated on the gold clasp.
Its rarity is the point. Phillips writes that around six examples were made and that the model is in Cartier's heritage collection, and Bonhams that only a handful of pieces are known.
Historical Context
Bonhams writes that Cartier London designed the watch in this period and that it bears the nickname Pebble, or Baseball in the United States. The-cartiers.com dates the example it describes to 1972, under Jean-Jacques Cartier, and records that the case was made at the Wright & Davies workshop in Clerkenwell. It writes that known examples carry London hallmarks from 1972 to 1975, and that the few made came in two sizes, for men and women.
Both auction examples are hallmarked for 1972. Phillips sold case number 1402 in Geneva in May 2021, and Bonhams sold case number 1270, offered on behalf of its original owner, in London in December 2022. Bonhams catalogs the movement as the Jaeger-LeCoultre Cal. P838 with a Glucydur balance, and Phillips as hand-wound with 18 jewels.
Cartier marked the watch's fiftieth anniversary in 2022 with a limited edition of 150 on the Manufacture 430 MC, and its announcement refers to the 1972 model, which now forms part of the Cartier Collection.
What to Look For
Start with the marks. A London Pebble should carry London hallmarks with a date letter, the JC punch mark and a Cartier London case number. On both documented examples the same number is stamped on the 18k gold deployant clasp, as Bonhams and Phillips both record; a clasp with a different number, or none, may be a later replacement.
Open the case to see the movement, which should be a hand-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber; Bonhams records the Cal. P838. A Pebble on the 430 MC is the 2022 reissue, which is numbered out of 150.
Polishing softens the rounded case and can wear down the hallmarks, so check that the marks are legible and the case lines are crisp. Read the date letter yourself rather than relying on a listing's year.