Visual Description
The Ref. 1566 is the large Santos Galbée in steel and gold: a 29 × 41 mm stainless steel case with an 18k yellow gold bezel fixed with eight screws, and eight more on the case back. The dial is white or silvered, with Roman numerals, center seconds and a date window at 6 o'clock, under blued steel sword hands and a sapphire crystal; champagne and gray dials are also cataloged. The integrated bracelet is steel and gold with a folding clasp, and some examples have been sold on a leather strap with a steel deployant clasp.
Reference Significance
The 1566 matches the Ref. 187901 in size, metals and movement: both are 29 × 41 mm quartz Galbées in stainless steel with an 18k yellow gold bezel. They differ in the number on the case back and in date, with dated 187901s running from about 1990 to about 1997 and dated 1566s from 1996 to about 2010.
The caliber is cited two ways. Sotheby's catalogs the Cal. 687 with 7 jewels, while Fellows has cataloged three 1566s with the Cal. 87 and one with the Cal. 687.
Historical Context
Dated examples run from a watch sold with papers dated 14 December 1996 to examples dated about 2010, and others are dated to the 1990s and to about 1999. The start and end of production are not documented.
Sotheby's has offered a 1566 made to commemorate Cartier's 150th anniversary, dated circa 1997, in 18k yellow gold and stainless steel with a white dial; the catalog does not say how it differs from the standard watch.
What to Look For
The integrated bracelet is the first thing to check. Test each link for lateral play and make sure the folding clasp closes firmly. The gold of the bezel and the bracelet should match in color; a mismatch suggests a replaced part.
The screws on the bezel and the case back should have matching heads and undamaged slots. The date should change cleanly at midnight, and the case back should carry the 1566 number.
The dial should have crisp printing. Lyon & Turnbull has cataloged one 1566 with applied gilt numerals on a dark champagne dial; no other record we found shows applied numerals, so check such a dial against the case back and the movement before buying.
The caliber is cited as both Cal. 87 and Cal. 687, so look at the movement itself rather than relying on a listing.


