Cartier · Santos

Santos Carrée, 18k Yellow Gold, 27 mm

Ref. 2964c. 1980s–1990s

The Cartier Santos Ref. 2964 is a Santos Carrée in 18k yellow gold throughout, a 27 × 39 mm automatic on an integrated gold bracelet, dated to the 1980s and 1990s and two millimeters narrower than the 29 mm gold Ref. 2960.

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Specifications

Reference
2964
18k yellow gold throughout, 27 mm case, automatic
Year
c. 1980s–1990s
Watches of Knightsbridge dates its example to the 1980s and Christie's its own to the 1990s; the start and end of production are not documented
Movement
Automatic
Case
27 × 39 mm, 18k Yellow Gold
Dial
Not confirmed
Watches of Knightsbridge records the hidden Cartier signature at VII on an original dial; Christie's offered one with a pavé diamond-set dial
Hands
Not confirmed
Crystal
Not confirmed
Strap
Integrated bracelet
18k gold Cartier Santos bracelet; Christie's records a deployant clasp

Visual Description

The Ref. 2964 is the Santos Carrée in a single metal, 18k yellow gold from the square case to the integrated bracelet. Christie's measures the case at 27 mm wide and 39 mm overall, and Hairspring at 27.5 × 38.5 mm. The bracelet is the Cartier gold Santos bracelet, closing on a deployant clasp on the example Christie's offered. Watches of Knightsbridge records the hidden Cartier signature at VII on an original dial.

Reference Significance

The 2964 sits beside the 29 × 41 mm Ref. 2960, which is also made in solid 18k yellow gold with an automatic movement. Watches of Knightsbridge gives the difference as the case width, 27 mm against 29 mm. The 2960 is also documented in steel; every 2964 found is gold.

Size and metal place it between the large 1978 references, the 2960 and the steel and gold Ref. 2961, and the ladies' Ref. 0901 and Ref. 0902 at about 24 mm.

Historical Context

Watches of Knightsbridge dates its example to the 1980s, and Christie's dates the one it offered from the collection of Sir Elton John in 2024 to the 1990s. Hairspring notes that the gold Santos came in period in a Cartier box with a gold plaque reading Or Massif. The start and end of production are not documented.

What to Look For

Case number: The case back should carry 2964 and a serial; a 2960 is the 29 mm model.

Metal: The case, bezel and bracelet should all be 18k yellow gold.

Dial and stones: Christie's offered one with aftermarket diamond settings and a pavé dial. Ask whether any stones were set by Cartier, and look for the hidden signature at VII on a plain dial.

Movement: It should be automatic. No catalog consulted names the caliber, so ask for a photograph of the movement.

Bracelet: Look for stretch in the gold bracelet and check that the clasp closes firmly.

Known Variants

Documented dial, case, and bracelet variations of Ref. 2964.

18k Yellow Gold, Original Dial

Gold case and Cartier gold Santos bracelet with an original dial carrying the hidden Cartier signature at VII, as Watches of Knightsbridge sold it.

c. 1980s (dated example)Documented by a dealer

18k Yellow Gold, Aftermarket Diamond Settings

Christie's offered a 2964 of the 1990s, case no. 400'435, with a pavé diamond-set dial and aftermarket diamond settings on its Cartier gold bracelet.

c. 1990s (dated example)One example documented

How to tell it apart

What separates a Ref. 2964 from its neighbors, and what to check before you buy or sell one.

What is the Santos Ref. 2964?

A Santos Carrée in solid 18k yellow gold: a square case about 27 mm wide and 39 mm long, an automatic movement and an integrated Cartier gold Santos bracelet. Watches of Knightsbridge dates its example to the 1980s and Christie's its own to the 1990s.

How is the 2964 different from the 2960?

By size. Both are 18k yellow gold Santos Carrée automatics on gold bracelets, but the 2964 is about 27 mm wide and the 2960 is 29 × 41 mm. Watches of Knightsbridge notes the difference directly: 27 mm instead of 29 mm. The 2960 was also made in steel; every 2964 found is gold.

What movement is in the Ref. 2964?

An automatic, as Christie's and Watches of Knightsbridge catalog it. Neither names the caliber, so ask for a photograph of the movement before you rely on a listing.

What should the case back read?

The reference, 2964, and a serial. Christie's catalogs case no. 400'435 on the example it offered. A case back that reads 2960 belongs to the 29 mm model.

Is a diamond-set 2964 original?

Not necessarily. Christie's offered a 2964 with a pavé diamond dial and catalogs the diamond settings on the watch and bracelet as aftermarket, meaning added after it left Cartier. Ask whether any stones were set by Cartier and for papers that show it.