Cartier · Cartier Tortue

Tortue, CPCP, 18k Yellow Gold, Manual Wind

Ref. 2496c. 1999–2005Also cataloged as 2496C, 2496E

The Cartier Tortue Ref. 2496 is a 34 × 43 mm 18k yellow gold Tortue of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris, made c. 1999–2005 on the hand-wound Cartier Cal. 430 MC rather than the chronograph Cal. 045MC of the Ref. 2356.

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Specifications

Reference
2496
Collection Privée Cartier Paris, 18k yellow gold, manual-wind
Year
c. 1999–2005
Phillips dates a diamond-set example circa 1999, its movement numbered 1999-3462; Antiquorum records an example as sold in October 2001 and European Watch Co. sold one with papers dated 2001; Sotheby's dates a 2496E circa 2005
Movement
Manual-wind
Cartier Cal. 430 MC, 18 jewels; Sotheby's and European Watch Co. also catalog the Cal. 437 MC
Case
34 × 43 mm, 18k Yellow Gold
Dial
Silvered guilloché
Central rose motif, painted black radial Roman numerals, inner minute track, secret Cartier signature in the VII
Hands
Blued steel
Breguet-style
Crystal
Sapphire
Sapphire front crystal and a sapphire display back secured by eight screws; sapphire cabochon in the crown
Strap
Leather
Alligator or crocodile strap with an 18k gold Cartier deployant clasp

Visual Description

The 2496 is the Collection Privée Tortue in 18k yellow gold: a tonneau case of 34 × 43 mm and 9.5 to 10 mm thick, with a sapphire cabochon in the crown. Antiquorum describes the silvered dial as guilloché around a central rose motif, with painted black radial Roman numerals, an inner minute track and the secret Cartier signature in the VII, under blued steel Breguet hands.

The back is sapphire, secured by eight screws, and shows the hand-wound movement. Examples come on an alligator or crocodile strap with an 18k gold Cartier deployant clasp. Phillips has offered two examples with diamond-set cases.

Reference Significance

The 2496 is a Collection Privée Tortue without the chronograph. It shares its 34 × 43 mm case size and yellow gold with the Ref. 2356, the single-button chronograph on the Cal. 045MC, but runs on the hand-wound Cartier Cal. 430 MC with 18 jewels. The white gold chronograph of the same line is the Ref. 2396.

Catalogs disagree on the movement's label. Phillips and Antiquorum give the Cal. 430 MC; Sotheby's and European Watch Co. also catalog the Cal. 437 MC on examples of this reference.

Historical Context

Sotheby's writes that the Tortue was introduced in 1912, and that Cartier launched the Collection Privée Cartier Paris in 1998 and produced it until 2008. Phillips dates a diamond-set 2496 circa 1999, its movement numbered 1999-3462. Antiquorum records that its 2496C was first sold on 16 October 2001, and European Watch Co. sold one with papers dated 2001. Sotheby's dates a 2496E circa 2005, the latest dated example found.

What to Look For

Start with the case back: it should read 2496, 2496C or 2496E, with a case number ending MG, behind a sapphire display back held by eight screws. Through the back, confirm a hand-wound Cartier movement, cataloged as the Cal. 430 MC or the Cal. 437 MC. A chronograph button or sub-dials mean a Monopoussoir, the 2356 or 2396, and a pink gold case of this size is cataloged by Monaco Legend and Sotheby's as the Ref. 2498.

Check the tonneau case for over-polishing, which softens its curves, and the guilloché for an even pattern with crisp Roman numerals and the secret signature in the VII. The deployant clasp should be signed Cartier and in 18k gold; Antiquorum has cataloged one example on a pink gold clasp and Sotheby's one on a yellow and pink gold clasp.

Known Variants

Documented dial, case, and bracelet variations of Ref. 2496.

2496C, Plain Case

Cataloged as 2496C by Antiquorum and European Watch Co.: 18k yellow gold with a silvered guilloché dial centered on a rose motif, black Roman numerals, blued steel Breguet hands and a sapphire display back. Antiquorum's example, case 0924 MG, was first sold in October 2001.

c. 2001 (dated examples)Documented at one auction house and one dealer

2496E

Cataloged as 2496E by Sotheby's: 18k yellow gold, silvered guilloché dial, case 0083 MG, on a yellow and pink gold Cartier folding clasp. No source we consulted explains the letter or describes a difference in the watch.

c. 2005 (one dated example)Single source

Diamond-Set Case

An 18k yellow gold case set with diamonds and a guilloché dial with Roman numerals, cataloged as Ref. 2496 by Phillips on cases 334636MG (circa 1999) and 351853MG (circa 2000s).

c. 1999–2000s (dated examples)Documented at one auction house

How to tell it apart

What separates a Ref. 2496 from its neighbors, and what to check before you buy or sell one.

What is the Tortue Ref. 2496?

A Tortue of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris in 18k yellow gold: a 34 × 43 mm tonneau case, hand-wound on the Cartier Cal. 430 MC with 18 jewels, with a silvered guilloché dial, black Roman numerals, blued steel hands and a sapphire display back. Dated examples run from about 1999 to 2005.

How is the 2496 different from the Ref. 2356?

Both are 34 × 43 mm Collection Privée Tortues in 18k yellow gold. The 2356 is the Tortue Monopoussoir, a single-button chronograph on the Cal. 045MC with two sub-dials. The 2496 is cataloged on the hand-wound Cal. 430 MC, with a guilloché dial and Roman numerals and no chronograph.

What do 2496C and 2496E mean?

Antiquorum and European Watch Co. catalog the yellow gold watch as 2496C, Sotheby's as 2496E and Phillips as 2496, all at about 34 × 43 mm on a hand-wound Cartier movement. No source we consulted explains the letters, so read the full number on the case back.

Is the movement the Cal. 430 MC or the Cal. 437 MC?

Both appear. Phillips, Antiquorum and one European Watch Co. listing give the Cal. 430 MC with 18 jewels; Sotheby's and two other European Watch Co. listings give the Cal. 437 MC, Sotheby's also with 18 jewels. No source we opened explains the difference, so read the caliber through the display back.

What should the case back of a 2496 read?

The reference, as 2496, 2496C or 2496E, and a case number ending MG, such as 0083 MG, 0924 MG, 334636MG or 351853MG. Antiquorum and Sotheby's describe a sapphire display back secured by eight screws.