What is the Santos Dumont Ref. 78225?

A Santos Dumont in two golds, which dealers call Deux Ors: a 25 to 26 × 36 mm 18k white gold case with an 18k yellow gold bezel, a white dial signed Paris with black Roman numerals, blued steel sword hands and a blue sapphire cabochon crown, on a leather strap. It is hand-wound, on a Cartier caliber built on the ETA 2512, and Bachmann & Scher dates its example to 1977.

Is the 78225 a Santos or a Santos Dumont?

Catalogs differ. Bachmann & Scher and Amsterdam Vintage Watches call it a Santos Dumont, Bulang & Sons a Santos Deux Ors Grand Modèle and Hindman a Santos. Archiva files it with the Santos Dumont because it matches that family's 1970s Cartier Paris watches: a 25 × 36 mm case, a hand-wound movement, a Paris dial and a leather strap, with none of the integrated bracelet and automatic movement of the 1978 Santos.

How is the 78225 different from the 78097?

By metal and movement. Both are 1970s Santos Dumonts of about 25 × 36 mm with white Paris dials. The 78097 is 18k yellow gold on the Cartier Cal. 78-1; the 78225 has a white gold case with a yellow gold bezel, and Bulang & Sons and Bachmann & Scher give its movement as ETA 2512 based.

How is the 78225 different from the 96061?

The two golds are reversed. The 96061, also sold as Deux Ors, has a yellow gold case with a white gold bezel, runs on the ultra-thin Cal. 21 and is dated to about 1990. The 78225 has a white gold case with a yellow gold bezel and dates from the 1970s.

What should the case back read?

A case number that begins with the reference: Hindman's example reads Cartier Paris 782250039, and Bulang & Sons gives a serial of 78225501xx. A case number beginning 78097 is the yellow gold Santos Dumont.

Cartier · Santos Dumont

Santos Dumont 'Deux Ors', White Gold and Yellow Gold

Ref. 78225c. 1970s

The Cartier Santos Dumont Ref. 78225 is the 'Deux Ors' Santos Dumont of the 1970s: a 25–26 × 36 mm 18k white gold case with an 18k yellow gold bezel, a white Paris dial and a hand-wound movement on an ETA 2512 base.

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Specifications

Reference: 78225; 18k white gold case, 18k yellow gold bezel, manual wind, Paris dial
Year: c. 1970s; Bachmann & Scher gives 1977 as the year of production, and Bulang & Sons and Amsterdam Vintage Watches date their examples to the 1970s; no source dates one later
Movement: Manual-wind; Cartier caliber on an ETA 2512 base, 17 jewels
Case: 25–26 × 36 mm, 18k white gold with 18k yellow gold bezel
Dial: White; Black Roman numerals, signed Paris
Hands: Blued steel; Sword-shaped
Crystal: Not confirmed; Catalogs differ: Bachmann & Scher lists sapphire, Amsterdam Vintage Watches mineral glass
Strap: Leather; Leather strap with a Cartier yellow gold folding clasp or a Cartier gold pin buckle

Visual Description

The Ref. 78225 is the Santos Dumont in two golds: an 18k white gold case with an 18k yellow gold bezel. Amsterdam Vintage Watches measures it at 25 × 36 mm and Bachmann & Scher at 26 × 36 mm. The white dial carries black Roman numerals and is signed Paris, the hands are blued steel swords, and the crown is set with a blue sapphire cabochon. Dealers have sold it on leather straps with a Cartier yellow gold folding clasp or a Cartier gold pin buckle.

Reference Significance

Bulang & Sons, Bachmann & Scher and Amsterdam Vintage Watches all call the 78225 Deux Ors, for its two golds. It shares its size, Paris dial and hand-wound movement with the yellow gold Ref. 78097, but the movement differs: Bulang & Sons and Bachmann & Scher give an ETA 2512 base, where the 78097 runs on the Cartier Cal. 78-1.

The Ref. 96061 reverses the metals, with a yellow gold case and a white gold bezel, on the ultra-thin Cal. 21.

Historical Context

Bachmann & Scher gives 1977 as the year of production of its example, and Bulang & Sons and Amsterdam Vintage Watches date theirs to the 1970s. No source dates an example later, and the start and end of production are not documented.

What to Look For

Metals: The case should be white gold and the bezel yellow gold. Every 78225 documented has this combination.

Case number: It should begin 78225, such as 782250039 on Hindman's example.

Dial: White with black Roman numerals and a Paris signature. Hindman noted light crazing on one dial; ask whether the dial is original.

Movement: It should be hand-wound and run; dealers give an ETA 2512 base. Ask for a photograph of the movement.

Known Variants

Documented dial, case, and bracelet variations of Ref. 78225.

White Gold Case, Yellow Gold Bezel, Paris Dial

White gold case and yellow gold bezel with a white Paris-signed dial, black Roman numerals, blued hands and a blue sapphire cabochon crown, as Bulang & Sons, Bachmann & Scher and Amsterdam Vintage Watches describe it; Hindman sold one, case 782250039, on a Cartier leather strap.

c. 1970s; Bachmann & Scher dates one to 1977Documented by dealers and at auction

How to tell it apart

What separates a Ref. 78225 from its neighbors, and what to check before you buy or sell one.

What is the Santos Dumont Ref. 78225?: A Santos Dumont in two golds, which dealers call Deux Ors: a 25 to 26 × 36 mm 18k white gold case with an 18k yellow gold bezel, a white dial signed Paris with black Roman numerals, blued steel sword hands and a blue sapphire cabochon crown, on a leather strap. It is hand-wound, on a Cartier caliber built on the ETA 2512, and Bachmann & Scher dates its example to 1977.
Is the 78225 a Santos or a Santos Dumont?: Catalogs differ. Bachmann & Scher and Amsterdam Vintage Watches call it a Santos Dumont, Bulang & Sons a Santos Deux Ors Grand Modèle and Hindman a Santos. Archiva files it with the Santos Dumont because it matches that family's 1970s Cartier Paris watches: a 25 × 36 mm case, a hand-wound movement, a Paris dial and a leather strap, with none of the integrated bracelet and automatic movement of the 1978 Santos.
How is the 78225 different from the 78097?: By metal and movement. Both are 1970s Santos Dumonts of about 25 × 36 mm with white Paris dials. The 78097 is 18k yellow gold on the Cartier Cal. 78-1; the 78225 has a white gold case with a yellow gold bezel, and Bulang & Sons and Bachmann & Scher give its movement as ETA 2512 based.
How is the 78225 different from the 96061?: The two golds are reversed. The 96061, also sold as Deux Ors, has a yellow gold case with a white gold bezel, runs on the ultra-thin Cal. 21 and is dated to about 1990. The 78225 has a white gold case with a yellow gold bezel and dates from the 1970s.
What should the case back read?: A case number that begins with the reference: Hindman's example reads Cartier Paris 782250039, and Bulang & Sons gives a serial of 78225501xx. A case number beginning 78097 is the yellow gold Santos Dumont.