Visual Description
The 1601 is a Tank Louis Cartier in platinum, about 23.5 mm wide and 30 mm long, with the rounded brancards of the Louis Cartier case. European Watch Co. and Amsterdam Vintage Watches give it as 5.5 mm thick. The dial is white or silvered with a guilloché pattern and painted black Roman numerals, crossed by blued steel sword hands, and the crown carries a sapphire cabochon. Sotheby's describes the back as secured by four screws. Most examples come on an alligator or crocodile strap with an 18k white gold Cartier deployant clasp.
The limited edition has a salmon sunburst dial in place of the white one.
Reference Significance
The 1601 is the platinum Tank Louis of the 1990s. It shares its movement family with the gold Extra Plates Ref. 96019 and Ref. 96065: the hand-wound Frédéric Piguet Cal. 21, which Finarte and Wind Vintage name outright and Antiquorum catalogs as Cartier's Cal. 021 MC.
Catalogs print the number three ways. The 1601-1 is what Antiquorum, Analog/Shift and Amsterdam Vintage Watches call pre-CPCP; the 1601 B is what Finarte, Wind Vintage and European Watch Co. place in the Collection Privée Cartier Paris. The watch itself is the same in size, metal and movement.
Historical Context
Sotheby's dates one example circa 1990 and Antiquorum another circa 1991; Phillips, Antiquorum and Finarte date others to the 1990s, and Sotheby's dates a 1601 B circa 2000. One Antiquorum lot was dated to the 1980s, but its case number sits in the same series as the later 1601 B examples, so the page does not start the range there.
The limited edition of 70, with its salmon dial, commemorates Louis-François Cartier according to Sotheby's and Antiquorum. No source gives a production count for the standard 1601.
What to Look For
Confirm the reference and the platinum hallmarks on the case back, then the movement: a hand-wound Cal. 21 or 021 MC with 17 jewels. A gold case or a quartz movement means a different reference. The case is thin, so heavy polishing shows quickly on the brancards; Wind Vintage describes its example's case as unpolished.
On a limited edition, the number out of 70 should be on the case and the dial should be salmon. Check that the clasp is 18k white gold Cartier where the watch is described as complete.



