Cartier · Santos Galbée

Santos Galbée Automatic, Steel & Gold, Small Model

Ref. 2423c. 1990s–2005

The Cartier Santos Galbée Ref. 2423 is the small automatic Galbée: a 24–25 × 35 mm stainless steel and 18k yellow gold case with a date, on a caliber given as Cal. 220 or Cal. 077, dated from the 1990s to about 2005.

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Specifications

Reference
2423
Small model, stainless steel and 18k yellow gold, automatic, date
Year
c. 1990s–2005
Antiquorum dates two examples to the 1990s and Bachmann & Scher sold one of 1999 with German warranty papers; Sotheby's dates a steel example to circa 2005. The first and last years of production are not documented
Movement
Automatic
Cartier automatic, 25 jewels; Antiquorum gives Cal. 220, Sotheby's Cal. 077
Case
24–25 × 35 mm, Stainless steel and 18k yellow gold
Dial
Silvered or white
Guilloché silver on Antiquorum's examples, with painted or applied gold Roman numerals and a date window
Hands
Blued steel or luminous gold
Épée-shaped
Crystal
Sapphire
Strap
Integrated bracelet
Brushed steel links with polished gold screws, or steel and 18k yellow gold links, with a double deployant clasp

Visual Description

The Ref. 2423 is the Santos Galbée at its small size with an automatic movement. Antiquorum and European Watch Co. give the case as 25 × 35 mm and 9 mm thick, and Sotheby's as 24 × 35 mm. Most cataloged examples have a steel case with an 18k yellow gold bezel and screws, a silvered or white dial with Roman numerals and a date window, and a sapphire crystal. The integrated bracelet has brushed steel links with polished gold screws, or steel and gold links, and a double deployant clasp.

Antiquorum has sold two dials: guilloché silver with painted Roman numerals and blued steel épée hands, and guilloché silver with applied gold Roman numerals, luminous dots and luminous gold hands, with the date between 4 and 5 o'clock. Sotheby's has sold an all-steel 2423 with a silvered dial.

Reference Significance

The 2423 is the small automatic among the Galbées on Archiva. It is the automatic counterpart, at 24 to 25 × 35 mm, of the large automatic Ref. 2319, and shares its length with the small quartz Ref. 1565 in steel and Ref. 1567 in steel and gold.

The caliber is cited two ways, both with 25 jewels: Antiquorum gives the Cal. 220 on its examples of the 1990s, and Sotheby's the Cal. 077 on its steel example of about 2005.

Historical Context

Antiquorum dates two examples to the 1990s, and Bachmann & Scher sold one of 1999 with its original box and German warranty papers. Sotheby's dates a steel example to about 2005. The first and last years of production are not documented.

What to Look For

Case back: It should read 2423, with a serial.

Movement: The automatic should wind, keep time and set the date cleanly. Catalogs give the Cal. 220 and the Cal. 077, so look at the movement itself.

Metal: On steel and gold examples, the gold bezel and screws should match in color and show no wear through.

Bracelet: Look for stretch and replaced links, and check that the deployant clasp closes firmly.

Known Variants

Documented dial, case, and bracelet variations of Ref. 2423.

Steel and 18k Yellow Gold, Painted Numerals

A guilloché silver dial with painted Roman numerals and blued steel épée hands, as Antiquorum catalogs it; European Watch Co. describes painted gold numerals on a steel and gold bracelet.

c. 1990sDocumented at auction and by dealers

Steel and 18k Yellow Gold, Applied Numerals

Antiquorum has sold one with a guilloché silver dial, applied yellow gold Roman numerals, luminous dots and luminous gold épée hands, with the date between 4 and 5 o'clock.

c. 1990sDocumented at auction

Stainless Steel

Sotheby's has sold an all-steel 2423 with a silvered dial on a steel bracelet with a double folding clasp, dated about 2005.

c. 2005Documented at auction

How to tell it apart

What separates a Ref. 2423 from its neighbors, and what to check before you buy or sell one.

What is the Santos Galbée Ref. 2423?

The small automatic Santos Galbée: a 24 to 25 × 35 mm case in stainless steel and 18k yellow gold, with a silvered or white Roman dial, a date and an integrated bracelet with a double deployant clasp. Antiquorum catalogs it as a lady's watch. Sotheby's has also sold an all-steel 2423. Dated examples run from the 1990s to about 2005.

How is the 2423 different from the 2319?

By size. Both are automatic Galbées with a date. The 2319 is the large 29 × 41 mm model; the 2423 is the small one, 24 to 25 × 35 mm.

How is the 2423 different from the 1567?

Both are small steel and gold Galbées of the same length. The 1567 is quartz; the 2423 is automatic, with 25 jewels, and has a date.

Which movement is in the 2423?

A Cartier automatic with 25 jewels, cited two ways: Antiquorum catalogs the Cal. 220 on two examples of the 1990s, and Sotheby's the Cal. 077 on a steel example of about 2005. Look at the movement itself before relying on a listing.

What should the case back read?

2423, with a serial. Sotheby's prints the case number 55'265'3CD, and European Watch Co. lists one as W2423. Antiquorum records a steel case back and a gold bezel fixed with 8 screws.