Cartier · Cartier Baignoire

Baignoire, 18k Yellow Gold

Ref. 1954c. 1990s–2000s

The Cartier Baignoire Ref. 1954 is a 23 × 31 mm 18k yellow gold quartz Baignoire made c. 1990s–2000s on the Cartier Cal. 057, with a silvered dial, painted black Roman numerals and a hidden Cartier signature at 10 o'clock.

Have this watch?

Recent sales of Ref. 1954: $6,750 to $10,000, median $7,600 across 4 sales of this exact reference, Nov 2023 to Nov 2026. What's yours worth?

Only sales that name Ref. 1954 count here.

We’re opening a small panel of specialist dealers soon. Leave your email and we’ll write once, when they’re ready to bid on your watch. Nothing else.

Photo 1
Photo 2
Photo 3
Photo 4
Photo 5

Specifications

Reference
1954
18k yellow gold, quartz
Year
c. 1990s–2000s
Woolley & Wallis dates one to circa 1990 and Sotheby's one to circa 2002; exact production years are not established
Movement
Quartz
Cartier Cal. 057, Swiss quartz
Case
23 × 31 mm, 18k Yellow Gold
Dial
Silvered
Painted black Roman numerals, secret Cartier signature at 10 o'clock
Hands
Blued steel
Sword-shaped
Crystal
Sapphire
Scratch-resistant
Strap
Leather
Alligator strap with an 18k yellow gold Cartier pin buckle

Visual Description

The Ref. 1954 is the Baignoire oval in 18k yellow gold, about 23 × 31 mm, with a cabochon set in the crown and the case back held by screws. The silvered dial carries painted black Roman numerals and the secret Cartier signature at 10 o'clock under blued steel sword hands. Examples are cataloged on leather straps with a gold Cartier buckle, and diamond-set examples on an integrated 18k gold bracelet.

Reference Significance

The 1954 is the quartz Baignoire on Archiva: the oval in yellow gold, with the Cartier Cal. 057 that Sotheby's and Monaco Legend both name. It is close in size to the 31 × 23 mm ovals of the 1960s, the Ref. 7672 and the middle size of the London Baignoire, but runs on quartz and carries the secret signature at 10 o'clock.

Historical Context

Dated examples run from about 1990, the date Woolley & Wallis gives one, through the 1990s to about 2002, the latest Sotheby's example. The exact production years are not established.

What to Look For

Case: Sight along the oval for dents, flat spots and heavy polishing. The case back should carry 1954 beside a separate serial.

Dial: The painted Roman numerals should be crisp and even, with the secret signature at 10 o'clock. Catalogs describe the dial as silvered, cream or white.

Movement: It should be the quartz Cartier Cal. 057.

Crown and strap: The cabochon crown should be intact, and a gold buckle or bracelet should be signed Cartier.

Known Variants

Documented dial, case, and bracelet variations of Ref. 1954.

Yellow Gold, Leather Strap

Silvered dial with painted black Roman numerals and the secret signature at 10 o'clock, blued steel sword hands, on a leather strap with a gold Cartier buckle.

c. 1990s (dated examples)Documented at auction and by dealers

Diamond-Set Bezel, Gold Bracelet

A diamond-set bezel and crown on an integrated 18k yellow gold Cartier bracelet with a concealed double deployant clasp, as on two examples cataloged by Sotheby's.

c. 1998–2002 (dated examples)Documented at auction

Collector's Corner

Reading the case back

What the numbers on the back of Ref. 1954 mean. Swiss production, 1990s to early 2000s.

The case back of Ref. 1954
Reference
1954
Four digits on their own line under 18K, above the serial.
Serial
Six digits, then two letters
45····CD on this back. Monaco Legend prints 65····CD; Sotheby's prints 36····MG.
Metal
18K
Written as 18K under SWISS MADE, not as 750.
Hallmarks
Three small marks beside 18K
One left and two right, too small in this photo to read. The Swiss marks are in the hallmarks guide.
Dating
Papers, not the digits
Monaco Legend dates one to the 1990s, Sotheby's another circa 2002. No source reads a year from the number.
Clasp
Concealed double deployant, on the bracelet
Sotheby's catalogs one on its integrated 18k bracelet; Monaco Legend sold another on a strap.

Serials quoted from catalogs are shortened with dots: they belong to their owners. How Cartier numbered its cases in each era is on the case back guide, and the stamped marks are in the hallmarks guide.

How to tell it apart

What separates a Ref. 1954 from its neighbors, and what to check before you buy or sell one.

What is a Cartier Baignoire Ref. 1954 worth?

Public auction and dealer results for Ref. 1954 from November 2023 to November 2026 come to $6,750 to $10,000, with a median of $7,600 across 4 sales of this exact reference. The most recent was $8,100 at Christie's Hong Kong in April 2026. Condition, service history, and the original box and papers move an individual watch within that range.

What is the Baignoire Ref. 1954?

The quartz yellow gold Baignoire of the 1990s and 2000s: an 18k gold oval of about 23 × 31 mm, a silvered dial with painted black Roman numerals and the secret Cartier signature at 10 o'clock, blued steel sword hands and a cabochon crown, on a leather strap with a gold buckle or, on diamond-set examples, a gold bracelet. Sotheby's and Monaco Legend both catalog the movement as the Cartier Cal. 057.

How is the Ref. 1954 different from the Ref. 7672?

Era and movement. The 1954 is a quartz watch of the 1990s and 2000s with the secret signature at 10 o'clock. The 7672, a number only Sotheby's prints, is an oval of about 1960 on a mechanical movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, which Sotheby's later called a Cartier London piece. The cases are the same size, about 23 × 31 mm, so the movement and the marks in the case back settle it.

Were diamond-set versions made?

Yes. Sotheby's has cataloged Ref. 1954 examples with a diamond-set bezel and crown on an integrated 18k yellow gold Cartier bracelet, dated about 1998 and about 2002. A white gold Ref. 1954 is not confirmed in the catalogs consulted.

Where is the reference number on a Ref. 1954?

On the case back, stamped beside a separate serial number: Sotheby's records one example as case 1954 CC53083. Other catalogs give serials such as 650514CD and 455979CD, so the serial does not begin with the reference.

What should I check before buying a Ref. 1954?

Sight along the case for dents, flat spots and heavy polishing. Check that the Roman numerals are evenly printed and the secret signature sits at 10 o'clock, that the cabochon crown is intact, and that the case back carries 1954 beside the serial. The movement should be the quartz Cartier Cal. 057, and a gold buckle or bracelet should be signed Cartier.