Cartier · Panthère de Cartier

Panthère de Cartier, Medium, 18k Yellow Gold

Ref. 8839c. 1990s

The Cartier Panthère Ref. 8839 is the medium Panthère in 18k yellow gold, 27 mm wide, with a 9-jewel Cartier quartz movement, a date at 3 o'clock and a brick-link gold bracelet, dated c. 1990s.

Have this watch?

One recent sale of Ref. 8839

  • Dec 2024FinarteFine Watches, Milan, lot 2, 16 Dec 2024. 18k gold square case n.542297, 27 x 27 mm, quartz, cream grained dial with Roman numerals, 18k gold Cartier bracelet, 1990s; Cartier booklet and box. House wording: 'The price includes buyer's premium'.$19,850
For comparison

Medium or large, 18k gold (Ref. 8839 and 887968): $6,600 to $12,400, median $7,800 across 5 sales, one of them Ref. 8839.

One sale is a rough guide. See it in the calculator.

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Specifications

Reference
8839
Medium, 18k Yellow Gold, Quartz, Date
Year
c. 1990s
Bonhams and Sotheby's date examples to about 1990 and Finarte one to the 1990s; no source gives a first or last year
Movement
Quartz
Cartier quartz, 9 jewels
Case
27 mm wide (medium model), 18k Yellow Gold
Dial
Champagne, cream or silvered
Black Roman numerals, secret signature at VII, date at 3 o'clock
Hands
Blued steel
Sword-shaped
Strap
18k yellow gold bracelet
Brick-link gold bracelet with a signed folding clasp

Visual Description

The Ref. 8839 is the medium Panthère in 18k yellow gold, 27 mm wide, with eight screws on the case back and a crown set with a cabochon. Bonhams describes a pale champagne dial with black Roman numerals, the secret signature at VII and the date at 3 o'clock, read by blued steel sword hands; Sotheby's catalogs a silvered dial and Finarte a cream dial with a grained finish. The case runs into a brick-link bracelet in 18k gold that closes with a signed folding clasp.

Reference Significance

The 8839 is the medium Panthère in 18k yellow gold. It matches the Ref. 887968 in size, metal and movement and differs in the number on the case back; each number keeps its own page, and no source found explains how the two relate. It is about the size of the stainless steel Ref. 1310 and the steel and gold Ref. 183949 and Ref. 1100, and larger than the 22 × 30 mm small gold Ref. 8669.

Historical Context

Bonhams and Sotheby's each date an 8839 to about 1990, and Finarte catalogs another as from the 1990s. Sotheby's names the movement as the Cartier Cal. 83 quartz with 9 jewels; Bonhams gives 9 jewels as well. No source found gives a first or last year for the reference.

What to Look For

Read the case back for 8839 and a serial; some houses print the two run together as one long number beginning 8839. The gold bracelet should have all its links and a folding clasp that closes firmly. Check that the date changes at 3 o'clock, that the Roman numerals are clean and the hands blued, and that the quartz movement runs. Measure the case, and keep any papers, which help place a particular watch within the run.

Known Variants

Documented dial, case, and bracelet variations of Ref. 8839.

Champagne or Cream Dial

Pale champagne dial with black Roman numerals and the date at 3 o'clock, on an example Bonhams dates to about 1990; Finarte catalogs one with a cream grained dial.

Documented at auction

Silvered Dial

Silvered dial on an example Sotheby's dates to about 1990, with the Cal. 83 quartz movement.

Documented at auction

How to tell it apart

What separates a Ref. 8839 from its neighbors, and what to check before you buy or sell one.

What is a Panthère de Cartier Ref. 8839 worth?

Archiva has found one public sale of Ref. 8839 in the last three years: $19,850 at Finarte in December 2024. One sale is a rough guide, not a market price. For comparison, from November 2023 to November 2026: Medium or large, 18k gold (Ref. 8839 and 887968): $6,600 to $12,400, median $7,800 across 5 sales, one of them Ref. 8839.

What is the Panthère Ref. 8839?

The medium Panthère in 18k yellow gold: a gold case 27 mm wide on a brick-link gold bracelet with a folding clasp, a champagne, cream or silvered dial with Roman numerals and a date, blued steel hands and a 9-jewel Cartier quartz movement. Bonhams and Sotheby's date examples to about 1990, and Finarte one to the 1990s.

How does the Ref. 8839 differ from the Ref. 887968?

By the number on the case back. Both are the medium Panthère in 18k yellow gold, 27 to 28 mm wide, quartz, with a date and a gold bracelet. Archiva keeps a page for each number. No source found prints both numbers on one watch or explains how they relate.

What should the case back of a Ref. 8839 read?

8839, with a serial. Houses print the serial separately, as Bonhams does with No. 68008301 and Sotheby's with 541'823, or run the reference into the serial, as Artcurial does with 8839712124. Gold medium Panthères also carry six-digit numbers that begin 8839, such as 883969, which auction houses catalog on diamond-set examples; no source found ties 883969 to a plain 8839.

Which movement is in the Ref. 8839?

A Cartier quartz movement with 9 jewels and a date. Sotheby's names the Cal. 83 in one example; Bonhams gives the jewel count without a caliber number.

What should I check before buying a Ref. 8839?

The number on the case back, 8839 with a serial; a gold bracelet with all its links and a folding clasp that closes firmly; a dial with clean Roman numerals and the secret signature at VII; blued steel hands; a date that changes at 3 o'clock; and a quartz movement that runs. Papers and a Cartier service guarantee, like the one Bonhams sold with one example, help date a watch.

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